broken motor mount - best replacement?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 216
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From: Massachusetts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
so i was wheeling the otherday and went into a mud hole and in the bottom the the mud hole was a broken log and i smoked the log and broke my drivers side motor mount.. it ripped the two bolts right out and broke the little extension that the bolt screws into right off.. so i was looking at after market mounts and was wondering if anyone knew the best bang for my buck.. im gonna do both sides so i dont have this happen again.. it took me forveer to get home when the motor fell it made me stuck in 3rd and i had to put it in low and try to creep took forever i kept stalling when i came up to a big rock pain in the ***.. haha but im looking for a mount that hooks up with as many bolts as possible especially considering im already down two holes on drivers side.. let me know your opinions.. thanks
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 576
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From: High Desert AV
Year: 88
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6 4.0 liter renix
What about the 1 in lift mounts? What would u use tho for? I am going to get new mounts and noticed that. I have a 4.5 in lift what would be good?
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,021
Likes: 3
From: mass
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 high output
sorry to thread jack but how do you guys like your brown dog motor mounts? I have them and they are def beef but i get a ton of vibration through the body with them.
i got them because i went through two sets of stock motor mounts in less then a year( i have a tcase drop im sure that puts more stress on them)
i got them because i went through two sets of stock motor mounts in less then a year( i have a tcase drop im sure that puts more stress on them)
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 855
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From: Taylorsville, UT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
sorry to thread jack but how do you guys like your brown dog motor mounts? I have them and they are def beef but i get a ton of vibration through the body with them.
i got them because i went through two sets of stock motor mounts in less then a year( i have a tcase drop im sure that puts more stress on them)
i got them because i went through two sets of stock motor mounts in less then a year( i have a tcase drop im sure that puts more stress on them)
I did not notice an increase or decrease in vibes when I put mine in. Although there was no more knocking from the bolt hitting metal since there was no rubber in the driver side.
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,912
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From: Over here...
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.8
Another vote for Brown Dog.
xjheep92, try loosening the motor mount bolts some. If they're too tight they'll transfer the engine vibrations through the body.
xjheep92, try loosening the motor mount bolts some. If they're too tight they'll transfer the engine vibrations through the body.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,021
Likes: 3
From: mass
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 high output
Yea, I have loosened them but there was no change. Its when I'm sitting still in drive. I also have no carpet/bedlined floor. I'll be sticking with the BD mounts any way. I'll try replacing the trans mount. maybe ill pull out the center console and dash trim and and add some felt pads/ anti vibrating stuff.
Wow! Thanks to everyone for the very kind words. We're a small company and this means a lot to us.
1" MMLs are rarely used on an XJ. In fact, we call anyone who orders an MML for an XJ to be sure they know what they're getting into. Although commonly used on Wranglers, the Cherokee is much tighter under the hood and between the tunnel and the bell housing.
If you're still set on 1" MMLs for an XJ, find some modeling clay or PlayDoh and make a 1" ball set it on the highest point under your hood (usually the radiator hose) and check for clearance. We know of a very few XJ owners who 'modified' the radiator hose to fit (not suggested by us). The tunnel can be "rubbed" by the housing until it clears or a hole can be cut in the tunnel to clear or a sledge can be used to bump the tunnel up.
If you're still set on 1" MMLs for an XJ, find some modeling clay or PlayDoh and make a 1" ball set it on the highest point under your hood (usually the radiator hose) and check for clearance. We know of a very few XJ owners who 'modified' the radiator hose to fit (not suggested by us). The tunnel can be "rubbed" by the housing until it clears or a hole can be cut in the tunnel to clear or a sledge can be used to bump the tunnel up.


