SoDelxj99

Hey guys...I have a 99' with 3" Zone lift kit (h.d. Coils) and full springs. I got the lift as a kit that included hydro shocks. Trans. case drop. The jeep rides on 31" MTZ's.
As you can realize after installing the lift I became addicted....what can I do next?...I need more and more and MORE!!!!
I have not cut the fenders(scared and saying so!)...still have both sway bars but DO have disco's. Rear shackle angle is almost vertical and installed JKS adj. track bar on stock mount. Doesn't flex real well. Rear seems limited. Thinking it is because of shackle angle??? And the front rubs terrible(fenders??)
So, here come the questions. I want to upgrade and flex as much as I can; hopefully without cutting fenders. I don't really have the cash to upgrade yet to a slip yoke and shaft yet.
So, I was thinking of getting a set of Bilstein 5100's. But not sure of how to buy a length that will allow upgrades to lift and not limit travel for flex.
Next a set of No-lift shackle boxes from H.D.engineering and boomerang shackles from Iron Rock. (Not sure how much this will add to my rear lift?)
Next, front set of ACOS to provide added front lift if needed to level out rear end and to provide bump stop and maybe do the hockey puck trick (will this be needed??) extend front brake lines.
Not sure what to do with front steering for upgrades??? The stock feels loose, sloppy and weak. I did replace my wheels hubs with a set of Timkens and tie rod ends and ball joints seem good for now.
So let's hear it guys....looking for feed back and suggestions still learning everyday...but you guys here on C.F. have always been great! Thanks in advance.

SeriousOffroad

At some point you're going to have to trim your fenders. You need to have up-travel and the only way to do it properly is to trim.

Shock length is determined by removing the existing shocks and flexing the suspension fully and measuring for the Collapsed and Extended lengths (from mounting hole to mounting hole). You'll want to disconnect your front swaybar and completely remove and discard the rear swaybar. Obviously you'll want your rig lifted to the final ride height or you'll be buying multiple sets of shocks. Once you've got your measurements in hand....Select the shock (lengths are listed).

Rear flex can be improved with a set of boomerang shackles or shackle relocation kit.

ACOS is great for lifting the front end without buying new springs. You'll get an automatic 1.75" lift from them as well.

Yes you'll need longer Brake Lines.

Bumpstops are needed to limit up travel. This is very important because doing so will keep your wheels from tearing up the body and from getting cut up as well. Again you'll want to measure for these as well. Do so when you're measuring for your new shocks.

SYE's are a great upgrade and do more than just eliminate vibes. A properly installed SYE and drive shaft will prevent excessive u-joint wear and premature failure. Get one (Sale Ends 12/31/13).

Lifted rigs running larger than stock rubber always benefit from upgraded steering components. Check out my 1 Ton Steering Kits

emptypockets

If you don't want to trim, you need to focus on droop vs upward travel. You'll need bump-stops to keep your tires out of the fender. They can be as simple as hockey pucks in the front and box tubing drops for the rear.

Did you install a longer rear hose when you lifted it? If not, your stock brake hose will limit you. You can pick up a Dakota hose for $26 or so if needed.

Now, the HD No lift brackets are great. Just make sure you have the right size shock so that you can use it to its fullest potential. I saw a tiny amount of lift when I installed mine, maybe .5-1", but I'm running a longer shackle.

For steering, I'd use a ZJ tie rod. It's cheap and a definite upgrade to the stock. The bar is solid and it steps you up to a larger tie rod. If you're running stock lowers, you might look into a set of aftermarket ones. I don't think you really need to buy the ACOS set, use spacers to level your front. They're a heck of a lot cheaper and the money you save can be spent elsewhere.

If you plan on off roading your junk, you need to focus on armor as well. Mini skids for your LCA brackets! It's easier to do them now than after you bashed the ever loving holy hell out of them or flat out ripped them off. Tcase skid, gas tank skid, aftermarket diff covers, and don't forget front and rear recovery points.

Just remember, flex isn't the end all be all, you want and need stability.

SoDelxj99

Thanks all. A lot of great help and info as usual. If I get the no lift locators and a set of boomerangs; it sounds like my front will need to go up as well?? And will this increase in lift put me in the category of "Having" to do the slip yoke eliminator?
Also, yeah I forgot I am still running stock upper and lower CA's. And yes, rear brake is already extended.
This is also my DD...any drawback with removing rear sway bar for everyday use?

emptypockets

I don't run any sway bars on any of my XJ's. it's a personal decision though on what makes you comfortable. As for the SYE, cross that bridge when you get there. You could always go for a hack and tap which will be cheaper. With the relocation brackets you may need a small spacer. Again, cross that bridge when you get there..

SoDelxj99

Sounds good. Wish I could do it all at once but funds only permit alittle at a time. Thinking first big improvement would be to do the brackets and shackles? Any good pecking order to all of these mods...as far as priority goes?

emptypockets

If you're wheeling, armor and recovery would be highest for priority. I'd do your bump stops first to protect your tires and fenders. Pull the rear sway bar and see what kind of articulation you get out of it. Work out from there.

glass3222

Another option instead of shackle relocation is to do leaf spring sliders:
http://liquidironindustries.com/XJ-J...f-Sliders.html

I did them recently and so far I am very happy with the ride now and the flex.

SoDelxj99

I do have a rear receiver and I just bought a front receiver for recovery but no armor yet.

Not real clear on the bump stop thing yet. I understand how to do the hockey puck trick in the front but not sure how to figure out how many to do. I don't want to keep pulling my springs and add one, flex, and repeat until I get it right. I know I am probably making this harder than I need to but haven't ever done it before. And the rear...well do I just go in the factory location or new top spring plates and again how long do I go?

Sorry, to be such a goof on this.

emptypockets

Since the op says they have limited funds to work with, I think they're better off with the HD relo's. you just can't beat $100 shipped to your door.

emptypockets

I'd try 3 on each side. I run two on mine, but my fenders are hacked. In the rear I ran plate steel with bump stops off a Chevy D44. There ara a bunch of different ways to approach the rear bumps.

glass3222

That is true. They are more costly. I just wanted to give another option.

SeriousOffroad

When you're measuring for your shocks, measure the distance from the pad to the bumpstop. That's the amount of bumptop you need.

SoDelxj99

A lot of good info. Now time to make decisions on parts. Thanks to all.

SoDelxj99

Went and did a little flex (very little) today. Didn't really notice any rubbing issues so far but I did notice that it doesn't really stuff much. I did forget to disconnect the front sway bar and not sure if having a rear sway bar attached is limiting the flex or maybe rear shackle angle? The rear tire came off the ground before it I could even think about flexing.
Might try it again with front disconnected???