00exjay

Want my jeep to last forever I'm fixing some rust now I wanna under coat it what would you guys suggest? I head plasti dip works good

xpedition xj-eh!

I'm a cheap bastard and here is what I do:

- paint any bare metal surfaces with "epoxy enamel appliance paint". You can buy it at big-box hardware chains. I've heard it called poor man's POR-15 because it dries very hard and resists moisture very well. Make sure you let it dry completely, then lightly scuff it up before painting over top
- next, paint with spray can of rocker guard. Why? because it has really good adhesion and some rubber content to soften the blow of rocks etc. Buy it in a spray can at most automotive stores.
- next top that off with some asphalt undercoating. Buy it in a spray can at most automotive stores. This stuff is a bit messy (due to asphalt content) but sheds water very well.

I should mention that I live in the harsh Canadian winters and this "system" has worked very well for me.

Appliance paint (epoxy enamel)


Rubberized rocker guard


Asphalt under coat

xpedition xj-eh!

Some before after pics with my latest project:



took care of rust, then applied the paint products listed in my previous post

Atmos

plasti dip is ****. if you meant it when you said forever.. lizard skin or some por-15. if you can spray it out of a rattle can it's probably not going to stay on AND look good for very long

00exjay

I work at advance so I get a discount we got 3m rubber undercoating. This work good??

Atmos

rubber? no that's just as bad as plastidip. if you want to do it cheap just clean the frame and cover it with black rustoleum rattle can. the good stuff is going to be expensive and you'll have to brush it on. por-15 will actually bond with rust and corrosion and stop it and leave a very long lasting finish that is scratch resistant and even somewhat rock resistant. if you want something thats going to last get the expensive stuff and do it right. if you're looking to save a buck then just use spray paint

Atmos

I'm going to go with lizard skin when I'm ready to undercoat mine. it serves as a sound deadener and the ceramic version even helps to reduce heat

xpedition xj-eh!

If it has asphalt in it then yes, it's one of your best options shy of going all POR-15. Just make sure you don't spray it over rust.

Potatowalker

Hey! I did a test of that 3m rubberizing undercoat this winter. Before the snow showed up, I took a hose, detergent, nylon bristle brush and metal brush and thoroughly cleaned out my rear wheel wells. Then when it was dry, I applied two thick coats of the 3m spray. I let it dry overnight before I even put the wheels back on.

It looked good at first, and held up pretty well overall - BUT there are a few spots that flaked off. It looks kinda like there was something left on the metal that kept it from adhering properly in those spots because some of the more intense wear areas are still holding up. This is after 4 months of gravel, snow, ice, sand, etc. from driving dirt & paved roads with nice new duratracs in temps ranging from 50F to -40F.

My conclusion: medium durability, requires meticulous surface prep to last. If I had put a coat of spray primer on first, it may have held up better. Considering the price of the 3m spray and primer if you're just doing small areas it's probably a middle-of-the-road option. If you're doing large areas it will likely be more cost effective to go with POR-15 or bedliner, based on the better durability and coverage.

FWIW:My plans are now to wire-brush my entire underbody, spray-prime it and then bedliner it with a brush-on product... as soon as the snow stops getting deeper and the hose shows back up...

PocketsEmpty

If you want it to last, like others said, stay away from the rubber crap and do it right. Save up $$$ if you have to. I'm looking into Chassis Saver for everything under mine, a project coming up VERY soon for me. Also looking into Monstalining over that for the interior and bottom of the doors. Problem is, CS is a little harder to come by than POR-15, but I have a retailer down the street that sells it.

My plans are to fix the minor rust holes i have with fiberglass body filler of some kind (havent decided which yet), wire-wheel EVERYTHING, lots of sanding (but not too much because the Chassis Saver/POR15 products are designed to adhere to some rust), lay down the Chassis Saver and then Monstaliner over that (interior and bottom of doors/rockers only) I also plan on putting my inner fender splash shields back in as well. It seems most people run without them but I don't see why when they can keep crap out and away from the inside of the fenders.

xpedition xj-eh!

I'm the one who first mentioned the "rubber crap"...

- The rubber crap isn't what stops rust, in fact, on it's own it probably promotes it. It is porous. That is why I use a non-porous base coat over bare metal (epoxy enamel) and then cover the rubber crap with something oil based (asphalt).
- It's the asphalt stuff with the oil in it that actually repels water and prevents rust. Hence I put it on top of the rubber stuff. The rubber stuff is paintable, the asphalt stuff is not. They are easily confused at the store, but they are very different products with different purposes.
- I've not had a problem getting the rubber stuff to stick, so long as I follow the prep instructions on the can (basically, paint over dry surfaces and scuff anything glossy first). That goes for any paint, including POR-15 and the like.

PocketsEmpty

Didn't mean any hate--I can see that yours turned out very well. Can't wait to get mine to that point. I just want to make sure he doesn't go in with rubber alone which you well have mentioned.

Either way you take, the prep work is 95% of the work.