Best/Current for a TieRod and Draglink Upgrade
#1
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Best/Current for a TieRod and Draglink Upgrade
I would like to upgrade my Tie Rod and Draglink setup and I'm finding tons of stuff on older threads with expired links, etc...just wondering what the best product for the money out there today is?
Also, would you recommend buying a drop pitman while I'm at it? I have 3 inches of lift.
Thanks,
XJM
Also, would you recommend buying a drop pitman while I'm at it? I have 3 inches of lift.
Thanks,
XJM
#2
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Drop pitman arm is to keep the drag link parallel to the track bar. If they are currently parallel, I wouldn't mess with it. As far as ideal setup, I'm curious to see the answer as I am in the market for a new setup myself.
#3
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
All depends on the tire size you're running really. At 3" of lift, I would think 33s would be the biggest you would run (sorry if I'm wrong). In that case, keep your drag link and get a tie rod from a V8 ZJ. You buy them brand new at any parts house for about $100. Get a Moog. It'll serve you fine.
#4
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
X2 to ZJ tie rod if your intentions are to stay at 3" on 33s with factory style inverted y steering. Good cheap insurance.
if you're looking for overkill the check out the JCR or SeriousOffroad under-the-knuckle kits. Those have served many people well.
There's many, many 1-ton steering kits, as well as many kits using Heims. They're all pretty comparable, for the most part. If you are set in replacing both the tie rod and drag link I would recommend going with an inverted T style kit (tie rod connects between wheels. Keeps toe-in true) as opposed to the factory inverted y (tie rod connects to drag link).
Inverted-T does have one drawback of being notorious for having a dead-spot at the center of the steering. This is from steering input being translated into rolling the tie rod instead of pushing it side to side. Many companies supply poly bushings with their kits to combat the tie rod roll but they inevitably wear out.
https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/1TS-UTK.html
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.com/Serious-Offroad/Serious-Steering-Kits/SERIOUS-OFFROAD-PRODUCTS/Serious-OffRoad-1-Ton-UTK-Steering-Upgrade-Inserts-Included?zenid=d7u54i3t6ail48e5fqucp3rqa2
Heims on the IRO kit
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10261.html
7075 Aluminum links on the SF kit
http://www.stinkyfab.com/steering-components/sfr-premium-1-ton-steering-for-jeep-xj-tj-zj.html
if you're looking for overkill the check out the JCR or SeriousOffroad under-the-knuckle kits. Those have served many people well.
There's many, many 1-ton steering kits, as well as many kits using Heims. They're all pretty comparable, for the most part. If you are set in replacing both the tie rod and drag link I would recommend going with an inverted T style kit (tie rod connects between wheels. Keeps toe-in true) as opposed to the factory inverted y (tie rod connects to drag link).
Inverted-T does have one drawback of being notorious for having a dead-spot at the center of the steering. This is from steering input being translated into rolling the tie rod instead of pushing it side to side. Many companies supply poly bushings with their kits to combat the tie rod roll but they inevitably wear out.
https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/1TS-UTK.html
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.com/Serious-Offroad/Serious-Steering-Kits/SERIOUS-OFFROAD-PRODUCTS/Serious-OffRoad-1-Ton-UTK-Steering-Upgrade-Inserts-Included?zenid=d7u54i3t6ail48e5fqucp3rqa2
Heims on the IRO kit
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10261.html
7075 Aluminum links on the SF kit
http://www.stinkyfab.com/steering-components/sfr-premium-1-ton-steering-for-jeep-xj-tj-zj.html
Last edited by XJlimitedx99; 03-06-2017 at 07:55 AM.
#5
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IRO also makes, or at least used to make, a bolt in solid steel tie rod that uses stock TREs and bolts up to the stock drag link. I think it's around $70 or something very well made piece, however you don't get the upgrade of larger TREs like with some other kits.
#6
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
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Good intel, sounds good thanks guys, so a draglink upgrade really isn't needed?
I'm running 3 inches with 31x10.50 tires. I recently had an alignment and they said they couldn't get it perfect...I got the readout sheet and the rear axle needs to be adjusted for thrust angle, but I'm wondering if any components up front (tie rod, drag link, drop pitman, etc.) are causing the other off numbers like camber/caster/toe...any clue?
Regardless, the tie rod will be replaced with something beefier unless you guys spot something sketchy in this photo - Thanks! :
I'm running 3 inches with 31x10.50 tires. I recently had an alignment and they said they couldn't get it perfect...I got the readout sheet and the rear axle needs to be adjusted for thrust angle, but I'm wondering if any components up front (tie rod, drag link, drop pitman, etc.) are causing the other off numbers like camber/caster/toe...any clue?
Regardless, the tie rod will be replaced with something beefier unless you guys spot something sketchy in this photo - Thanks! :
#7
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Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
Currie makes a pretty fancy tie rod and drag link, supposed to be very nice however it's quite pricey, you probably could run the IRO or V8 ZJ tie rod with a Currie draglink to save some $$$ as opposed to the full kit but upgrading the DL isn't really a priority for most folks seeing as how they are solid steel (I think). That is unless you want to go one ton or crossover in which case a new drag link is required, usually they're made of .120" or .250" wall DOM. Side note, your track bar tie rod end has alot of thread exposed, make sure it's not too far threaded out, you don't want those threads failing on you on the road.
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#8
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Here you go: NO need to break the bank if you are sticking with 31's http://www.quadratec.com/products/56118_0104_07.htm
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Year: 93 2 door
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Here you go: NO need to break the bank if you are sticking with 31's http://www.quadratec.com/products/56118_0104_07.htm
dude that definitely breaks the bank when compared to a ZJ tie rod. Go to a junk yard and find one in decent shape for $40 it will give you the same results