Mine were more individually wrapped:

 

I wish mine was like that.
I am pretty sure there was some kind of change in the alternator in '00, maybe even '99,
and I guess that includes how they laid out the cables.

 

So I ended up with a 23 1/2" negative cable from the block to the battery.
Used a 5/16' 45 degree lug at the block. Cleaned it up and ran my thread restorer
tool over the stud and through the nut. I wanted to clean up the other ground but that
nut seemed a little tighter and did not want to risk snapping the stud. I was just happy
that I was able to get the one off I needed to without any mishaps.

The short one to the fender well ended up being 21".
But the original bolt snapped. Not only that the tack welds on the little block it screws into
broke free. So I drilled a new 5/16" hole in front of where it used to be, used a 1" long 5/16" bolt,
was able to nut it from behind the fender using that big square hole that was there. So the nut, lock
washer, and washer behind, 2 of those electrical washers with the teeth on on either side of the lug,
with a straight 5/16" lug there.

I put both lugs on the same side hoping to use the other side of each terminal for an aux fuse box
that I would like to get installed at some time. Thinking both negative and positive cables will run
from that side of the terminals along the fender to wherever I decide to put it.

Which at this point I have not figured out where yet. LOL.

Oh not sure if it was mentioned but the braided cover and heat shrink that Danny linked
can be put on after you crimp lugs on both ends of the cable. The first one I did I only crimped
the one end, put on the braided cover, then crimped the other end. You could tell right off the bat
that the heat shrink would go over the lug without a problem.

It was a little awkward trimming the braided cover with the lug on but that was it.
Also when I put on the braided cover I pushed it on the cable to the point where I wanted it.
Held that end tight and worked the cover back from the end I started at to get it nice and tight.
Then heated the braided cover with my heat gun for a second or two to hopefully tighten it around
the cable a little more. I think it worked out a little better. Maybe. MLOL.

Anyway my finished product with my new battery installed.
All the original cables are tucked away and secured with zip ties.
Going to roll with this for awhile and then at some point put in the higher amp alternator.
At that time I will figure out what I am going to do about the old cables.

Again many thanks to Danny for taking the time to write up his project.
And for the really important part of posting links to exactly what he used.
At least IMO.

 

You're more than welcome, and nice work! It sounds like you ran into a few issues, which is to be expected, but addressed them well.

 

superb & inspiring write up

I have black cloth electrical tape to re-wrap some looms shortly

man, thats a clean XJ under bonnet

Q) How clean should ones engine bay be?
A) clean enough to eat lunch off

dont ask about my 9V battery joke

 

So I am noticing a weird, but good, side effect from my battery cable upgrade.
Since day one the Jeep never started on the first try. Usually after sitting all night.
Hopping in and out of the Jeep running errands not an issue.
I checked the fuel pressure way back when and she was running right at 49 lbs.
When shut off you can see the pressure dropping somewhat.
Common thing and I just did the poor man's prime.
Just turn the key to the on position, waited till all the lights went off, and she would start right up.
So now she wants to start right up without that.
Now normally one might think grounds. Makes sense. How many times have people said that here.
Have an electrical problem? Check your grounds. Don't just look at them. Take them off and clean them up.
Here is the thing. I thought I noticed this just after doing the positive cables. Had not touched the negative ones yet.
On top of that there was the results from the fuel pressure test way back when.
I wanted to roll with the Jeep for awhile before I posted this.
So I am not looking a gift horse in the mouth but am confused. LOL.

 

I was looking into this upgrade and found this thread. Looks like it will get me where I wanna be. Figured I would post on it to bump it up and let others see it again.

 

I had been wanting to get to do this for a long time.
Then BroncoMan started the thread and I figured I would get off my *** and get it done.
I never would have thought to use the braided covering but he did and here is the best part.
Posted a link to it. LOL.

 

hello this is probably a stupid question, but in the final product pic. What is the + cable that runs from + terminal to just under the hood prop hinge and what is it connected to.

 

Inline fuse for probably an aftermarket audio amplifier. Same place I put my amps fuse.

 

Oh. That makes sense. Thank you.

 

I did this with mine. That fender ground is a weak link. I used all stainless steel hardware, a 1 1/2" bolt, and I added a nut on the engine side of the fender. This makes the whole thing into a solid stud coming out of the fender wall, and then the battery cable goes over that, with a nylock nut over that to hold it in place. With that extra nut, you can remove the battery cable without making everything loose.

So, going from the outside in, it's bolt, star washer, fender wall, flat washer, star washer, nut, cable lug, flat washer, locking nut.

NO need to go that big on the cable, though. 6 gauge, maybe 4, is more than plenty. It's a short run. Cables are sized based on the current they will be expected to carry AND the length of the cable. Shorter run, smaller cable.

It's also very important to clean the paint off the fender on the inside so you make good electrical contact. Clean a circle down to bare metal just a bit bigger than your flat washer that will be up against it.

Also apply a good coat of dielectric grease to all the parts to keep them corrosion free.