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Amp and Subs, something's not right

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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 01:11 PM
  #31  
outlawcherokee's Avatar
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From: Tacoma,WA
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
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Ditch the electrical tape, and get heat shrink and a soldering gun. Tape will always over time heat and lose it's ability to stick creating what could possibly become an electrical fire, or if your lucky only fry your components.
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 07:47 PM
  #32  
luckyAD80's Avatar
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From: VA
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 cyl
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UPDATE! so everything has been working great since I redid everything, but all of the sudden the subs turned off again..
but its different

The amp is getting power.
I checked the remote cable wire to the deck and its good (Redid it and nothing).
All other wires are good and connected.
All fuses intact.


Why.....?
Every now and then I'll hit a bump and you can hear a "thud" from the subs, or they turn on randomly for a split second - hinting that some wiring is loose? But besides the actual wires inside the sub box, everything is great.

Any ideas?
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 11:41 PM
  #33  
NaStY5000's Avatar
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From: Abbotsford
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I would say you most likely have a cold solder or broken solder on the circuit board now from over heating the amp in the first place.

Probably one of the power supply capacitors inside the amp. You will have to take it to a repair place and have them go over it to determine the problem.

Most people dont realize that after over heating the amp a couple times it causes damage. Should be an easy fix. You just need to find someone that has the patience to look at it.
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 11:48 PM
  #34  
tobtech's Avatar
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From: Fullerton,CA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Exactly right, sounds like a problem with the amp. Repair for that amp would cost more than its worth. Do yourself a favor and get a new amp. Stick with brands like Kicker, Rockford, JL Audio and you wont run into problems. I am really not trying to disparage your amp but I have been in the car audio business for 25 years and all amps are not the same. There is a reason for the price differences. You should only have to buy an amp once. I have Rockford Punch 150s from 1988 that still work great. They were $499 (back in 1988) for a 150 watt amp but it worked for 24 years, and you could run a whole system on it! Now that is value.
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 11:50 PM
  #35  
NaStY5000's Avatar
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From: Abbotsford
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I also agree with earlier posts. Wire your subs to 4 ohms. There are very few amps around that are capable of running 1ohm loads at max volume for any length of time. Also invest in bigger wire. Its obvious that the wire you have now is too small gauge.

Most wire manufacturers now a days dont provide quality copper wire.
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 11:53 PM
  #36  
NaStY5000's Avatar
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From: Abbotsford
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by tobtech
Exactly right, sounds like a problem with the amp. Repair for that amp would cost more than its worth. Do yourself a favor and get a new amp. Stick with brands like Kicker, Rockford, JL Audio and you wont run into problems. I am really not trying to disparage your amp but I have been in the car audio business for 25 years and all amps are not the same. There is a reason for the price differences. You should only have to buy an amp once. I have Rockford Punch 150s from 1988 that still work great. They were $499 (back in 1988) for a 150 watt amp but it worked for 24 years, and you could run a whole system on it! Now that is value.
Ive only been doing this for 27 years now. Man i miss the old days.....
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 11:55 PM
  #37  
tobtech's Avatar
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From: Fullerton,CA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Here is a good example of the wire thing. I have a 50' roll of 1/0 gauge that I am using to relocate a battery in a project car of mine. I ordered another roll of 50' of 1/0 wire on Ebay because it was cheap and the roll weighed almost half of the other quality roll that I had in my shop. I still used it for some wiring projects but I only used for runs where 2 gauge would have been sufficient.
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