Yeah def need an idea of what impedence he has these subs wired to. Its not just as easy as dropping subs in and cranking the gain ****. Gain does not equal volume. Another point is that if he is distoring the hell out of these subs he may be killing his voice coils in the process along with his amp.

 

kicker CVRs on 1 ohm with ~2500 true watts = OP doesn't have a rear view mirror.

 

Hahaha! Did this to one of my alpine s types... Bridged it down to ~1/2ohm. Holy ****! I couldn't believe the sub could "handle" it.. I thought my headlights were gonna cut out. That was with my old Cadence amp... Thing was beast..

 

Dual 4. Definitely wired to 1 ohm.

 

Yeah it hits hard when it works haha.

 

Sorry for 3 posts but on phone. Think water and mud definitely got in power wire where fuse holder is. That and I recently turned up my bass on amp to about 55%. Will post more details later when I'm home.

 

Are you positive that amp
Is 1 ohm stable....

 

I can take a picture of it if you really want me to. Says 1 ohm stable.

 

impedence is dynamic. jusy because the voice coils are labeled 4 ohms, one of them could be a little worn and dropping the whole network below 1 ohm. Happens quite often when wiring subs to the lowest load an amp is capable of. A meter will tell the whole story. I usually build a subwoofer system with some headroom, ie if the amp is stable to 2 ohm, I wire them up at 4 ohm. You may not get quite as much power but you should compensate with a bigger amp because you get better sound and the amp does not work as hard. This is not quite as critical on an amp that is 2 ohm stable but if a generic name amp claims to be 1 ohm stable then I would tread lightly. If a Rockford or Kicker amp claims 2 ohms you would be pretty safe. BTW, I am not bashing your amp, it is just a fact that it is not one of the more mainsteam brands.

 

You're good man. I followed a wiring diagram and everything so I know it's wired to 1 ohm, but whether or not something is worn, I'm not sure. I'm going to replace the fuse, and splice a new connection around the fuse, splice a new section of my ground, and readjust all the ***** to everything they should be at. KFXHellRaiser or whatever is username helped me a ton with this whole setup, and he knows his ****, so I really think it messed up because of me adjusting my ***** to the wrong settings, and/or getting mud and water on the wires, and/or ****ty ground.

 

And thanks again for all the advice everyone. My jeep is now unexpectedly in the shop, but I'll get it back tomorrow and try these things out soon.

 

FIXED MY SUBS AND AMP!

Hey guys, here's what I figured the problem was:

I redid all my wiring and added new electrical tape.
I noticed all the electrical tape touching wire was melted into the wire.
Ground and power wire ends looked burnt.
Fuse was broken.
Looked at my amp's settings and bass boost was at 50% (should be at 25% max), gain was all the way (good), but the two other frequency notches were all the way up (THEY SHOULD BE ALL THE WAY DOWN).

Therefore, I have concluded that because my amp was trying to draw too much power, the wires got really hot, which resulted in the melting of the tape. Because the amp got too hot and was handling more than it was capable of, it would shut off after a couple minutes of play, and come back on later when it was cooled down. EXPLAINS MY ON AND OFF SCENARIO (that is, until my fuse couldn't take it any more.)

I don't think water and mud had much to do with it, but it could have helped. Anyhow, hope this helps someone out there. Thanks again guys.

 

Your gain should be at like 50%

 

KFXHellRaiser told me otherwise, and he has run the exact amp I'm running. He also pretty much picked out of entire system for me, so I'm gunna keep it all the way up for now, but if other people agree with you, please post. Thanks for the input tho.. I'll definitely look into it.

 

No one can tell you on a forum what your gains should be set at. Gains should be set at a level that allows you to use around 80% of your head unit volume before clipping or distortion occurs. The only way to determine that is to listen to it. The purpose of a gain control on an amp is to match the amp with the head unit and to balance levels between the other amps.

The other thing is any installation wiring should be capable of using 100% of the amps power. If you have to turn the gain down to prevent wires from getting too hot, the wires are too small for the installation. It is good that you got it working but I would still recommend upgrading the wire if it is getting that hot.