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I guess what i'm trying to figure out is if the flex-pipe will last or if it's a waste of money since I would be replacing that every 60,000 miles instead.
Edit: I took a better photo with my endoscope of the leak....
Well.... would you rather spend 20-30 bucks every 60k miles to replace a flex joint or spend 100+(++) on a header potentially at the same interval (or even potentially less).
Originally Posted by 96cherokee_xj96
I had a question about shortening my exhaust and whether it would influence the engine. So I had the exhaust fall off on the engine side of the catalytic converter where it was clamped and I was able to get a new clamp and get it put back in place but on the other end of the exhaust on the back end after the muffler it was cut off (or also fell off) by the previous owner so I was thinking I would reroute it to come out behind the passenger door in front of the rear tire. It has a pretty bad rust hole right where i want it to come out so i was going to cut a hole out to stop the rust and bring the exhaust out there. I will be able to keep the catalytic converter but the muffler that is on it is much to big so id have to chop the exhaust behind the cat and get a smaller muffler or have it straight piped from the cat out. I'm just curious as to whether or not this would influence the engine or the way the vehicle ran or if I would need any specific tuning. Sorry for the long post! Any insight will help!
Well.... would you rather spend 20-30 bucks every 60k miles to replace a flex joint or spend 100+(++) on a header potentially at the same interval (or even potentially less).
Good point Basslicks, an update on this is that Gibson is replacing it on warranty and I am looking into Brown Dog engine mounts and a Mean Lemons transmission mount. I may skip the flex pip unless I can find an easy way to bolt it into my system so the swapping out of it every year is easier than removing the downpipe and system so I can cut and re-weld the new flex in.
Does anyone have any feedback on the Mean Lemons transmission mount? It looks great, but i'm wondering about the longevity and if it's engineered to fit in without lifting/dropping the transmission more than stock.
Good point Basslicks, an update on this is that Gibson is replacing it on warranty and I am looking into Brown Dog engine mounts and a Mean Lemons transmission mount. I may skip the flex pip unless I can find an easy way to bolt it into my system so the swapping out of it every year is easier than removing the downpipe and system so I can cut and re-weld the new flex in.
Does anyone have any feedback on the Mean Lemons transmission mount? It looks great, but i'm wondering about the longevity and if it's engineered to fit in without lifting/dropping the transmission more than stock.
Thanks all for your help and feedback.
XJWonders is the man who makes the mean lemons. I'm sure he's designed it to last, and to work in a factory style set up, but if you have concerns I'm sure you can PM or email him any questions. I will tell you that is the mount I will go with next though.
Good point Basslicks, an update on this is that Gibson is replacing it on warranty and I am looking into Brown Dog engine mounts and a Mean Lemons transmission mount. I may skip the flex pip unless I can find an easy way to bolt it into my system so the swapping out of it every year is easier than removing the downpipe and system so I can cut and re-weld the new flex in.
Does anyone have any feedback on the Mean Lemons transmission mount? It looks great, but i'm wondering about the longevity and if it's engineered to fit in without lifting/dropping the transmission more than stock.
Thanks all for your help and feedback.
If you have a welder, or have access to one, you can either buy flanges and weld them to the pipe and flex joint. Or you can buy ID/OD adapters and weld those on and clamp the flex joint in place. I'm doing that with a flowmaster muffler because the bushings were destroyed when the muffler was cut out of an exhaust system.
So I got my new header and precats in and got everything buttoned back up correctly, or at least I think lol but now when I got and fire it up it acts like I’m flooring it. It runs up to 5K RPMs and doesn’t sound like it’s going to stop increasing (I’ve shut it off before it’s gotten past that every time, which is a few seconds). I’m unsure if this is the normal ignition and I’m just shutting it off before the RPMs come back down, or if it’s doing this because I only have open headers or what. Plz help!
So I got my new header and precats in and got everything buttoned back up correctly, or at least I think lol but now when I got and fire it up it acts like I’m flooring it. It runs up to 5K RPMs and doesn’t sound like it’s going to stop increasing (I’ve shut it off before it’s gotten past that every time, which is a few seconds). I’m unsure if this is the normal ignition and I’m just shutting it off before the RPMs come back down, or if it’s doing this because I only have open headers or what. Plz help!
My guess is the intake isn't sealing and you have a huge vacuum leak. I've heard of it happening before when doing headers, luckily on my Cherokee I got it right the first time, but I still have to do my Comanche sometime
My guess is the intake isn't sealing and you have a huge vacuum leak. I've heard of it happening before when doing headers, luckily on my Cherokee I got it right the first time, but I still have to do my Comanche sometime
If that is the case then it is definitely the rear aspect of the intake. Maybe im just shutting it off before the idle can come back down? how high to RPMs get during a normal ignition sequence? Maybe I need to like reset the computer or something other than taking everything back out lmao
Never has. Does sound like a vacuum leak. One thing you could check. Disconnect the cables from the throttle body and look to see if the butterfly is closing. Hook up the cables and check again.
If that is the case then it is definitely the rear aspect of the intake. Maybe im just shutting it off before the idle can come back down? how high to RPMs get during a normal ignition sequence? Maybe I need to like reset the computer or something other than taking everything back out lmao
I mean can you see any gaps anywhere, is the intake loose anywhere? I almost had this happen. My intake didn't slide into the guide pin quite right, but when I was tightening it down it shifted into the right spot. Really sounds like this is your issue. Considering you just put a new header on, and this happens with a new header install I'd say that's your problem. There are a few things that cause the gap though. The exhaust flange being too thick, gasket tweaked, intake not lined up right, intake runners hitting the exhaust tubes, cracked intake (could've cracked it if it was tweaked when tightening down and didn't notice), or the bolts weren't tightened down enough.
02-15-2018, 06:40 PM
