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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
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Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: Central Washington
Year: 91 xj, 93 xj, 93 zj, 94 zj
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2x I6, 2x v8
Does it appear to have had any trimming done already?
Is it still using the stock LCAs?
What do you plan to do with it?
Your tire sizes, in terms I can relate to, are about 31.5" old and 33" is what you want to go to. Depending one what you want to do with your jeep (daily drive, off road, mix, other), there is a variety of things you can do with it. Personally, I started with 34" (though they seem more like 33s compared to some of the other tires I have around), and no lift, but I trimmed a lot and did a lot of work to shoehorn them in there. Im now sitting at 3.5" lift, and the only thing I want different is stronger LCAs with clearance for the tires (stock rims). This is for my wheeling rig, so I really didnt care how much I massages the metal. I pounded the floorboard up an inch or so in the front wheelwell, knocked the spare tire bump out of the rear wheel wells, and trimmed /rolled the steel at the flairs as far as I could (well, the front can get reduculous as its only a single sheet of steel, the rear you are limited on the body welds). After wheeling it a bit I checked for rubs and knocked in the metal where it rubbed. The rear wells are forgiving and you can do a lot to make all the surfaces smooth and flair in the lips and edges so a tire cant catch on anything. The front needs more care. Biggest thing is bumpstopping to limit how far up your tire stuffs into the wheel well.
Personally, depending on what I was going to do with it, Id try to throw the tires on as is (they should fit) and look at it to see if anything is going to touch. Slowly work up some ramps (i just used those flimsy steel rams for working on cars) or use a bumper jack to articulate the suspension to look for problems. Id also start with at least one hockey puck in the front for bumpstop (if nothing has been done before). it seems to ke that you shouldnt have any new issues turning lock to lock as the tires are narrower, just need to make sure your tires can fit through the opening and have room for up-travel.
Stock LCAs should be ok for a pavement pounder if you have no clearance issues, but could cause trouble wheeling (flimsy, and in my case limit how far I.can turn my wheels)
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Whiteface, TX
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6 4.0 L
what is the difference between rough country's 400$ 4.5" lift for 89 cherokee and the 800$ version? is it worth spending the extra money? are both long arm suspension?
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,460
Likes: 0
From: Dayton, Ohio
Year: 1992
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by evoman
what is the difference between rough country's 400$ 4.5" lift for 89 cherokee and the 800$ version? is it worth spending the extra money? are both long arm suspension?
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 15,581
Likes: 8
From: some small town oregon
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Diesel Dan
BTT
Really I tried the search bar and my scope of knowledge is 8 Lug GM and John Deere.;
so, i want to lift my 98 classic 3/3.5 inches on the cheap untill i save up money to move out then buy a long arm kit. So for the front, im going to do full 3 inch coils, probably rustys. Do i need a longer trackbar or control arms for 3''?
And for the rea. My leafs are fine. Are AAL as rough riding as people say? I am thinking about a 1.5 inch block and 1.5 inch shackle, is that a good way to go on the cheap? Keep in mind i wount be wheeling very much for the next year, just minor trails that i do now in stock for with no issue and sand. Also before anyone says just to bite the bullet and go full packs. I will in a year or so when i save up for a RE 6.5 superflex with long arms.
And for the rea. My leafs are fine. Are AAL as rough riding as people say? I am thinking about a 1.5 inch block and 1.5 inch shackle, is that a good way to go on the cheap? Keep in mind i wount be wheeling very much for the next year, just minor trails that i do now in stock for with no issue and sand. Also before anyone says just to bite the bullet and go full packs. I will in a year or so when i save up for a RE 6.5 superflex with long arms.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,251
Likes: 0
From: Frisco, Tx
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by xjchris
so, i want to lift my 98 classic 3/3.5 inches on the cheap untill i save up money to move out then buy a long arm kit. So for the front, im going to do full 3 inch coils, probably rustys. Do i need a longer trackbar or control arms for 3''?
And for the rea. My leafs are fine. Are AAL as rough riding as people say? I am thinking about a 1.5 inch block and 1.5 inch shackle, is that a good way to go on the cheap? Keep in mind i wount be wheeling very much for the next year, just minor trails that i do now in stock for with no issue and sand. Also before anyone says just to bite the bullet and go full packs. I will in a year or so when i save up for a RE 6.5 superflex with long arms.
And for the rea. My leafs are fine. Are AAL as rough riding as people say? I am thinking about a 1.5 inch block and 1.5 inch shackle, is that a good way to go on the cheap? Keep in mind i wount be wheeling very much for the next year, just minor trails that i do now in stock for with no issue and sand. Also before anyone says just to bite the bullet and go full packs. I will in a year or so when i save up for a RE 6.5 superflex with long arms.
How are AAL on the street. i heard they are rough, also how can i tell if my rear springs are still good? i know you can measure the fender flare to the ground, but how much distance should it be stock on a 98?
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,139
Likes: 1
From: chillicothe, OH
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I dont think the ride is that bad. We aint drivin a cadillac. Mine seems to do well with that set up. Your springs more than likely are toast. Are they straight across, perpendicular with the ground or is there still some arch in them? They will be fine when u put the aal on them. See my build thread.
I dont think the ride is that bad. We aint drivin a cadillac. Mine seems to do well with that set up. Your springs more than likely are toast. Are they straight across, perpendicular with the ground or is there still some arch in them? They will be fine when u put the aal on them. See my build thread.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 9,897
Likes: 2
From: shawnee,ks
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by xjchris
They are straight across. So the aal will still do the job with flat packs?
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 9,897
Likes: 2
From: shawnee,ks
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by xjchris
Ok thanks for the info. So is there a good full pack 3-4 inch kit that has shocks for <500?
For my own opinions, I need more info:
Does it appear to have had any trimming done already?
Is it still using the stock LCAs?
What do you plan to do with it?
Your tire sizes, in terms I can relate to, are about 31.5" old and 33" is what you want to go to. Depending one what you want to do with your jeep (daily drive, off road, mix, other), there is a variety of things you can do with it. Personally, I started with 34" (though they seem more like 33s compared to some of the other tires I have around), and no lift, but I trimmed a lot and did a lot of work to shoehorn them in there. Im now sitting at 3.5" lift, and the only thing I want different is stronger LCAs with clearance for the tires (stock rims). This is for my wheeling rig, so I really didnt care how much I massages the metal. I pounded the floorboard up an inch or so in the front wheelwell, knocked the spare tire bump out of the rear wheel wells, and trimmed /rolled the steel at the flairs as far as I could (well, the front can get reduculous as its only a single sheet of steel, the rear you are limited on the body welds). After wheeling it a bit I checked for rubs and knocked in the metal where it rubbed. The rear wells are forgiving and you can do a lot to make all the surfaces smooth and flair in the lips and edges so a tire cant catch on anything. The front needs more care. Biggest thing is bumpstopping to limit how far up your tire stuffs into the wheel well.
Personally, depending on what I was going to do with it, Id try to throw the tires on as is (they should fit) and look at it to see if anything is going to touch. Slowly work up some ramps (i just used those flimsy steel rams for working on cars) or use a bumper jack to articulate the suspension to look for problems. Id also start with at least one hockey puck in the front for bumpstop (if nothing has been done before). it seems to ke that you shouldnt have any new issues turning lock to lock as the tires are narrower, just need to make sure your tires can fit through the opening and have room for up-travel.
Stock LCAs should be ok for a pavement pounder if you have no clearance issues, but could cause trouble wheeling (flimsy, and in my case limit how far I.can turn my wheels)
Does it appear to have had any trimming done already?
Is it still using the stock LCAs?
What do you plan to do with it?
Your tire sizes, in terms I can relate to, are about 31.5" old and 33" is what you want to go to. Depending one what you want to do with your jeep (daily drive, off road, mix, other), there is a variety of things you can do with it. Personally, I started with 34" (though they seem more like 33s compared to some of the other tires I have around), and no lift, but I trimmed a lot and did a lot of work to shoehorn them in there. Im now sitting at 3.5" lift, and the only thing I want different is stronger LCAs with clearance for the tires (stock rims). This is for my wheeling rig, so I really didnt care how much I massages the metal. I pounded the floorboard up an inch or so in the front wheelwell, knocked the spare tire bump out of the rear wheel wells, and trimmed /rolled the steel at the flairs as far as I could (well, the front can get reduculous as its only a single sheet of steel, the rear you are limited on the body welds). After wheeling it a bit I checked for rubs and knocked in the metal where it rubbed. The rear wells are forgiving and you can do a lot to make all the surfaces smooth and flair in the lips and edges so a tire cant catch on anything. The front needs more care. Biggest thing is bumpstopping to limit how far up your tire stuffs into the wheel well.
Personally, depending on what I was going to do with it, Id try to throw the tires on as is (they should fit) and look at it to see if anything is going to touch. Slowly work up some ramps (i just used those flimsy steel rams for working on cars) or use a bumper jack to articulate the suspension to look for problems. Id also start with at least one hockey puck in the front for bumpstop (if nothing has been done before). it seems to ke that you shouldnt have any new issues turning lock to lock as the tires are narrower, just need to make sure your tires can fit through the opening and have room for up-travel.
Stock LCAs should be ok for a pavement pounder if you have no clearance issues, but could cause trouble wheeling (flimsy, and in my case limit how far I.can turn my wheels)
☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,139
Likes: 1
From: chillicothe, OH
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by wiggles
If I were you I'd look at rough country, about the most affordable lifts on the market. There full pack 3" is probably somewhere around that price and then you get a 10% discount for being a forum member





