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Front end doesn’t rub at all luckily. Have yet to take measurements but a user (phydeaux33) commented on a similar post on my build thread some measurements from stock height that should help me compute resulting lift when I get home from this business trip (Pilot here…gone often). Florida based, I don’t expect I’ll see much rock or flex requirements in the near future. Kept my boat at a storage lot for a while that had steep Culver’s to the parking pads and required some pretty serious flex (at least full lock left). The rears would rub but not the fronts. I’ll update stock to current measurements of frame to axle tube (suggestion by the other user) when I get home.
I fully expect to go new rear leaf pack, but I’m more shocked I don’t have an idea of what’s under there given the extent of paperwork I have from the PO. They’re in great shape (5 leaf pack) with nothing more than some surface rust. The shackle on the other hand is 100% original and has got to go. Top bolt is going to be a bear…in case anyone has a suggestions besides lubricant, torch, and prayer.
For what it’s worth Clifford is a secondary/project vehicle and as much a tool as a toy, but by no means a daily as far as plans go. I have no problem cutting or modding things like fender lines and wheel wells. I’m sure I’ll eventually throw on some flat fenders that require it.
OK - I'm in California and our trails are rocky and take a lot of flex. Here things rub if it's not perfect. This is a good way to asses the lift height:
I recently inherited a 2000 2WD Cherokee XJ from my sister—it’s been sitting for years, but it runs well. My cousin’s heading to the military soon, and I want to clean it up and gift it to him. Not for serious off-roading, since it's a 2WD—but more to improve the overall look and give it a capable, slightly aggressive stance that still rides well for daily use.
Considering the 2" Zone Offroad Lift Kit for the 1984–2001 XJ, paired with Zone Nitro Gas shocks.
Want to pair it with a solid set of all-terrain tires (nothing crazy, just a clean, capable look).
Looking for advice on:
Is the Zone kit a solid choice for a 2WD with mostly street use?
What tire size works best with a 2" lift—no rubbing or trimming?
Any favorite budget-friendly A/T tire brands that ride well and look good?
I’m based in Los Angeles County and trying to keep this build affordable, so any local shop recommendations or parts sources are welcome!
I recently inherited a 2000 2WD Cherokee XJ from my sister—it’s been sitting for years, but it runs well. My cousin’s heading to the military soon, and I want to clean it up and gift it to him. Not for serious off-roading, since it's a 2WD—but more to improve the overall look and give it a capable, slightly aggressive stance that still rides well for daily use.
Considering the 2" Zone Offroad Lift Kit for the 1984–2001 XJ, paired with Zone Nitro Gas shocks.
Want to pair it with a solid set of all-terrain tires (nothing crazy, just a clean, capable look).
Looking for advice on:
Is the Zone kit a solid choice for a 2WD with mostly street use?I'd go with Old Man Emu if you can afford it
What tire size works best with a 2" lift—no rubbing or trimming? 235/75/r16 or a narrow 30" tire
Any favorite budget-friendly A/T tire brands that ride well and look good? General Grabbers look great on an SUV, ride and handle very well for an All terrain tire
I’m based in Los Angeles County and trying to keep this build affordable, so any local shop recommendations or parts sources are welcome!
Any 4 Wheel Parts store (national chain) will do a good job
Gonna be honest, I searched the threads for this and gave up.
Building my own lift kit with Old Man Emu springs, Bilstein struts, etc.
I live in NY so the rust is fkn killer. So I'm painting the struts, front springs, and front spring damper. Plus some odds and ends.
1. Should I pant the track bar?
2. Do people paint leaf springs? I've found conflicting info. (I def know NOT pant the actual flat part though between the leafs, just would do the visible area)
Gonna be honest, I searched the threads for this and gave up.
Building my own lift kit with Old Man Emu springs, Bilstein struts, etc.
I live in NY so the rust is fkn killer. So I'm painting the struts, front springs, and front spring damper. Plus some odds and ends.
1. Should I pant the track bar?
2. Do people paint leaf springs? I've found conflicting info. (I def know NOT pant the actual flat part though between the leafs, just would do the visible area)
If you're installing OME springs and shocks you will not need to paint them. Note OME front springs net a 2-1/4" lift while the full pack rear leaf springs net a lift 1" higher. Take one of the center leafs out to match the lift in the front -or- remove the stock 1/2" seat/spacer in the front and replace it with a 1-1/2" seat/spacer to match the lift in the rear. Once the lift is in place and the track bar readjusted, you may paint the track bar
If you're installing OME springs and shocks you will not need to paint them. Note OME front springs net a 2-1/4" lift while the full pack rear leaf springs net a lift 1" higher. Take one of the center leafs out to match the lift in the front -or- remove the stock 1/2" seat/spacer in the front and replace it with a 1-1/2" seat/spacer to match the lift in the rear. Once the lift is in place and the track bar readjusted, you may paint the track bar
I’m still painting the struts and front springs regardless cause 1) I want the color and 2) even though I don’t HAVE to it is always suggested just due to the amount of salt we have up here in the winters.
yes I am aware the leafs have an extra that needs to be removed. Guess you advise against painting those springs tho 😆
Hello,
I'm sure this topic has been rehashed several times but if anyone has any updated info/advice since the market is constantly changing, that would be so greatly appreciated. I currently have garbage lower control arms for my ~3.5 inch lift (amazon no name from previous owner), and I suspect they're causing steering play. I've been told they look like the bushings are shot and move around when coming to a stop. Anyway... the uppers are stock and I'm planning on replacing them with detroit axle stock uppers I happen to have. The lowers, however, I'd like to get nice ones. They're all expensive, but I want to make sure I get good quality ones. It looks like there's a few options and I also don't know what's overkill for my rather boring xj build. Here's what I've found:
Core 4x4: https://core4x4.com/shop/crs-j-xjmj-...=,,685,579,947
Metalcloak: https://metalcloak.com/duroflex-cont...ront-rear.html
Clayton: https://claytonoffroad.com/products/...9e83309b&_ss=r
Also Clayton: https://claytonoffroad.com/products/...9e83309b&_ss=r
JKS: https://jksmfg.com/products/j-link-a...ee-xj-501e6a87
Opinions on which one I should get? As usual I have no idea what I'm doing but want to make sure I don't screw up and buy a $400 product I can't use. I also have the stock lowers from detroit axle I could use but I'm not sure I fully trust them.
Thanks so much,
Lauren
Hello,
I'm sure this topic has been rehashed several times but if anyone has any updated info/advice since the market is constantly changing, that would be so greatly appreciated. I currently have garbage lower control arms for my ~3.5 inch lift (amazon no name from previous owner), and I suspect they're causing steering play. I've been told they look like the bushings are shot and move around when coming to a stop. Anyway... the uppers are stock and I'm planning on replacing them with detroit axle stock uppers I happen to have. The lowers, however, I'd like to get nice ones. They're all expensive, but I want to make sure I get good quality ones. It looks like there's a few options and I also don't know what's overkill for my rather boring xj build. Here's what I've found:
Core 4x4: https://core4x4.com/shop/crs-j-xjmj-...=,,685,579,947
Metalcloak: https://metalcloak.com/duroflex-cont...ront-rear.html
Clayton: https://claytonoffroad.com/products/...9e83309b&_ss=r
Also Clayton: https://claytonoffroad.com/products/...9e83309b&_ss=r
JKS: https://jksmfg.com/products/j-link-a...ee-xj-501e6a87
Opinions on which one I should get? As usual I have no idea what I'm doing but want to make sure I don't screw up and buy a $400 product I can't use. I also have the stock lowers from detroit axle I could use but I'm not sure I fully trust them.
Thanks so much,
Lauren
Your on the borderline for long arms - which would improve both ride and articulation. However, you could simply replace the bushings on what you have. Rebuild-able and polyethylene are to good words if you buy new. With a 3-1/4" lift, I run stock uppers with no issues.
Your on the borderline for long arms - which would improve both ride and articulation. However, you could simply replace the bushings on what you have. Rebuild-able and polyethylene are to good words if you buy new. With a 3-1/4" lift, I run stock uppers with no issues.
yeahhh I dont have the budget for long arms at the moment. I was thinking about control arm drop brackets but the internet seems to think those are overkill for anything below 4". I've replaced bushings before, and though that would be the cheapest option I would really rather replace them. Maybe just because I hate redoing bushings but also because they're bright yellow and really ugly.