Is anyone running rustys front 4 link? Is there any clearance issues? Binding while flexing? I have a 98 xj and want to ditch the short arm lift. And go long arms. Radius arms are not out of the question but. I want the adjustability of a 3 link. But the piece of mind of a 4 link. I take this rig overland here in az. So 70 percent off road and 30 percent on road. I daily it to work but also drive it to the trail and beyond.

 

No binding or clearance issues on my Rusty's 4 link, been happy with it. Remember to bump stop if you like your fenders...

 

1998 for reasons of rust damage and parts wear, I am replacing front axle assembly, U/L control arms, putting in Zone 3” coils. Recommendations for track bar and tie rod assemblies given the above info.

Thank you!

 

Since I need all new tires I've decided to go for new rims, too. I've never liked the factory rims and mine are all pitted anyway and not worth restoring. I'm replacing them with cheap but handsome, black steel rims with faux beadlock. So my question is –

Since I'm replacing the OEM wheels, IS THERE ANY ADVANTAGE IN INCREASING THE SIZE OF THE RIMS, THEREBY INCREASING THE SIZE OF THE TIRES, WITHOUT NEGATIVELY IMPACTING CLEARANCE OR HANDLING?

That's my question in a nutshell. What follows are some specs that you might want to factor in – but maybe not necessary. Anyway, here you go:

While my XJ is 4WD, my driving is 100% streets and freeways; I don't take it off-road so I don't need, nor do I want, aggressive, knobby, loud, rough-riding tires. And I have no plans in the future to lift my Cherokee.

The only downsize I know to upping the size of the wheels & tires are the clearance issues. But I'm clueless when it comes to this type of customization so I don't know what other issues to factor in that may effect handling. I'm working with a reputable tire shop but I'd feel more confident getting real world advice from the guys here who've made these changes specifically on XJs.

I believe the original factory tire size was: 205/75R 15

The original wheel size is: 15x7

For 10 years I've been running: 215/75R 15

Wheel size recommended by the tire shop: 15x7 or 15x8

INTERESTING, BUT THE TIRE SHOP QUOTED ME TIRES FITTED TO A 15X8 RIM BUT THEN, ON THE ESTIMATE, THEY STATE THAT THEY RECOMMEND A 15X7 RIM. AGREE? DISAGREE?

Tire sizes recommended by the tire shop: 225/75R 15 or 235/75R 15

Thanks in advance for your expertise and opinions!

 

CJG I'll throw some things out there (more in the hope that someone else will chime in than that I have something too useful).

Wider rims = a little bit wider stance. It also might need more offset than stock. You should search the forum on what offset you need for 15X8 rims with no lift 2.5l 2wd.

Wider rims are more likely to debead when aired down, but that doesn't sound like an issue for you but kind of an ironic change considering the beadlock look

Wider stance will improve handling, make steering a little harder, put more wear on bearing hubs and ball joints, and make springs/shocks feel softer. If the rims are heavier than what you have they will also contribute to the wear and springs softness plus decrease fuel economy.

Taller tires risk rubbing in the wheel well, improve the ride quality, and because they are heavier and add unsprung weight contribute to the negatives I listed above. The tires you listed also are a little wider, so that will add to a little worse fuel economy, a little more wear, a little harder steering.

Wider tires provide more traction but also more rolling resistance so they worsen fuel economy. You can go to https://tiresize.com/calculator/ and see that actual sizes of the tires you listed. Then on this site there should be some posts where you measure from your axel to your fender and get a rough estimate what size tires you can fit without rubbing.

 

• For narrow tires, the 7" rim holds the tire better and you'll get fewer flats
• XJ's come with a 5 or 5-1/4 " backspacing - replacement wheels should come close to that

 

"Add a lift" additional spring lief on an old spring pack usually don't last long and will begin to sag
245/75/16's are typically used on 3" lifts to prevent rubbing
For 32" tires, you'll need about a 4-1/2 " lift or give up travel and add to your bump stops
Long arms are recommended (lower control arms)
Regearing is HIGHLY recommended
The front axle should be up graded or at least add Crome molly axels

 

Thank you SimpleDad! Just saw your response. Just the kind of knowledgeable, deep dive I was hoping for. Think I'll play it safe and use the same size rim as the OEM ones. Thanks again.

 

Hello all, I have some lift and tire questions so I guess this is the place to post them

I have a 1989 Jeep Cherokee Laredo and I believe it has the upcountry suspension package. I’m not sure what this consists of and I’m just looking for some insight on it.

My jeep has recovery hooks, skid plates, and possibly longer bump stops. I can’t tell about the suspension because it’s old and sagging. Does the skid plates and recovery hooks mean I have the upcountry package?

Can I buy heavy duty OEM replacements so I can have the original one inch of lift? If I have the upcountry package, instead of doing a lift kit like I was planning I think I might just replace with the heavy duty parts for that 1 inch. Does anyone have part numbers or specs like free, arch and spring rate?

Do you think not doing a lift kit will help retain the jeeps value? It is stock.

What are the largest tires I can fit without interference with one inch of lift? I won’t be driving off-road but since I have a jeep, I’d like some cool looking tires.

Thank you in advance.

 

The factory placed an "upcountry" decal on the back window which may have not survived. The skid plates and recovery hooks may be factory or knock-off after-market. The factory upcountry had about 5/8" of lift and the factory put 235/70/r16's on them. Do you have 16" wheels? A 2" old Man Emu lift will serve you BEST and a good 30" tire will work well with that lift. - You'll have an upcountry on steroids Unfortunately to my knowledge, factory replacement parts are no longer available

 

I have 3.5" AAL lift, ride is almost dangerous on wash board gravel roads. Looking at upgrading to 3.5" leaf packs and Bilstein shocks to handle better. I am looking for any advice on reputable spring companies, I ran ProComp on my Wrangler years ago and liked it but don't see that they make leaf packs for xj.

 

metalcloak OR Old Man Emu both make quality springs for an XJ - my 3" OME lift actually 3-1/4" OME - an additional 1/4" with a shackle relocating kit (recommended in any case) is easy. OME shocks are legendary improvements for an XJ

 

Thank you. I'm comparing Old Man Emu and RE right now, almost $100 difference in price.

 

metal Cloak's 3-1/2" progressive coil front springs ($ 249) ; OME's front springs are $214 but would require spacers for a 3-1/2" lift. The aluminum MC lower control arms are a pricey $446, while Rubicon Express RE3700 are only $202 - YOU Will need new lower control arms and an adjustable track bar and longer brake lines with a 3-1/2" lift
Old Man Emu rear springs are $336 Do Not get the heavy-duty springs. Whose rear springs did you price? MC doesn't provide lief springs. Rubicon Express lief springs for a 3-1/2 " lift are $158 each
What shocks did you price? OME's are $127 each Note "lift kits" are almost NEVER everything you need
For a 3-1/2" lift: MC's front coils with OME's lief springs on the rear with a shackle relocating kit , OME shocks with Rubicon Express lower control arms and adj track bar and brake line extensions. Would be a good set-up
Your old rear springs will not do well with any add-a-lief kit- They will sag quickly. Get full spring packs -

 

Thank you for all the info, super helpful! My jeep was lifted when I bought it to replace the one I've had since 2018 that had rusted beyond repair. Both jeeps have add a leaf and factory shackles, track bars, sway bar links etc... I had already upgraded those parts on first jeep and swapped over to new one along with my 5spd trans and swe equipped tcase. After checking out the shackle angle situation, I've ordered relocation brackets and extended shackles, will install them and see how the ride goes and then look to replacing spring packs. Factory control arms also are in the plans to be upgraded to adjustable ones so I can fix that issue.

My stated lift height is based on how both jeeps sit over 31" tires. Second jeep sits 1 1/2 inches higher. Both were lifted by previous owners that clearly were only concerned with tire fitment and nothing else. I am slowly as budget allows upgrading suspension to correcting the drivability!