http://m.homedepot.com/b/Bernzomatic...icks;3125099]I found this... more affordable, but not 5 bucks.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomat...0194/100564678

Couldn't imagine what 5 bucks is gonna get me. I'd be scared.

Would this work? Or will it not get hot enough?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomat...4458/203665003[/QUOTE]

OK so for 20 bucks you can get one can and the torch handle. The torche handle you won't have to purchase next time so it.ll only hurt once.http://m.homedepot.com/b/Bernzomatic/N-5yc1vZ91

 

I've used these torches to straighten exhaust piping and loosen Axel nuts that my 1/2 inch impact couldn't bust

 

Basslicks, I used a small monkey wrench to loosen that fitting when I did my lift.

 

Get this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomat...4458/203665003. I have used dual propane torches to heat treat knives in a coffee can forge. In the right conditions like the little forge I was able to reach non magnetic, 1400° F. on its own it should be able to get you hot enough an not break the budget.

 

Thanks for all the help guys. I finally ended up breaking them loose. Literally went for broke and tightened up the vicegrips as much as I could and still be able to close the jaws. Not the best idea, but it worked, nonetheless. Tightened them up and slowly turned the pliars until the nut finally broke loose.

I'll probably still pick one of these up this weekend just to have on hand regardless.

 

When I got to that point, I just ran all new lines from the distribution block to the wheels. It also gave me peace of mind because now I know they aren't rusted

 

I'm putting that on the to-do list as well. There's no rust on the lines at all and they're in pretty good shape - on the outside. No telling what kind of condition they're in on the inside. 23 year old lines with black as tar brake fluid in the resevoir and coming out of the bleeder valves... yeah, it's worth the replacement for peace of mind as you said.

 

Hack N Tap arrives Friday. I ordered bits and tap they sold on same site and the jig. What type of cutting wheel will I need to get ? I read where someone put the vehicle in reverse and let the output spline turn while they held the cutting wheel steady in one spot. Seems like a cool idea.

 

I used a reg metal 4 1/2" grinder blade. I didn't put jeep in reverse. Just had a steady hand a went to work. If you're use to using a grinder you'll be fine to be honest. I use a grinder for work all the time

 

didn't you get yours already?.

 

I'm pretty new to this site. I have tried to wade through the plethora of lift/spring related threads and discussions but have gotten overwhelmed with all the data and information,
I need to remedy the rear spring sag on my 96 Cherokee. since this is my work vehicle and I carry a fair load in the back I thought adjustable air shocks might be the solution but I had it checked this am and was told the springs are almost flat. I'm not an off-roader----this is mostly a freeway flier and I want to get it back to the proper aerodynamic stance with clearance for slightly taller tires.
I'd like to get about a 3 inch raise to the back and an inch or inch and a half to the front. I'm on a tight budget and we have lost most of our old you-pick'ed salvage yards to the rushers when scrap values were high.

I have read about a switch/swap using S-10 type rear springs, but can't figure out which ones could/would do what I need. Can someone point me in the right direction--or toward appropriate threads and links

 

You can make a bastard pack with springs from a donor vehicle (Durango, Explorer, S10, etc), and there's a very helpful chart you can quickly find if you do a Google search for "littlekeylime leaf spring chart"

That will likely give you more than 3" of lift, though, and that means more parts. I suggest you look into Old Man Emu 2" rear leaf springs and any brand 2" coil spacers for the front. New shocks aren't absolutely necessary at 2", but yours will go bad very quickly (if they even still work), and I highly recommend new 2" lift shocks.

Staying at 2" minimizes the extra cost because it doesn't significantly alter your driveline angles or push any parts to the limit of their usable lengths.

 

When it comes to suspension mods on any vehicle it's easy to get overwhelmed.


First thing is you don't want to use air shocks on these Cherokees. Where they mount in the back to the body can't handle the stress. Also you say your springs are almost flat? They weren't arched all that much when they were new. Here are the ones on my '96. I'm at factory specs front and rear for height. Can't remember right off what the measurements are.








As far as taller tires go Im running 235/75R-15's which are considered max for a stock Cherokee without rubbing and power loss. If you go taller you'll be needing to regear to regain that power loss.

 

I disagree with this. I had 30" street tires on my stock Comanche, and I didn't notice a difference at all. Even with 31" mud tires, power isn't bad. Going above 31s will result in a significant loss of power unless you regear

 

Guess I could have said "If you go MUCH taller..."


My XJ came with 215's and I noticed a big difference in lowend performance when I went to 235's. Almost all of my driving is on rural roads at lower speeds (rarely up to 40mph). I don't think I'd like any less power than I have now.