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Old Sep 21, 2015, 02:17 PM
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Old Aug 5, 2015 | 08:26 PM
  #24691  
gunmetal_nightrider's Avatar
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From: Hampton Roads
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
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I'm all alone and man I've been at it all day. I'm tired. Worst case scenario...can I roll my jeep slowwwwwly without control arms?
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Old Aug 5, 2015 | 08:56 PM
  #24692  
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From: Alaska
Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
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Last edited by Dumajones; Aug 6, 2015 at 12:47 AM.
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 07:10 AM
  #24693  
gunmetal_nightrider's Avatar
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From: Hampton Roads
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
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Shoulda said without LOWER control arms. Uppers are still attached. And NO, don't move the jeep without lower control arms.
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 09:40 AM
  #24694  
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From: Ross Vegas, Ga
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 w/ tupy head
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Originally Posted by Dumajones

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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 09:53 AM
  #24695  
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From: Tehachapi CA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Originally Posted by gunmetal_nightrider
I decided to finish my lift today but I've been stuck trying to get the new control arms on. The axle is too far back and it won't go any lower because the drag link won't come off. The pinion is pointing way high (I took out the shaft earlier). I don't have any ratchet straps. And I need to park it or my apartment complex will tow it from in front of my garage. Thanks guys

I was working alone and used 3 jacks. 1 Floor jack on side being aligned to lift axle to correct height and then the stock jeep jack on same side at an angle behind the axle pushing / rolling it forward. The 3rd jack that was on the opposite side lifting the axle and was adjusted as needed to vary the alignment. Was able to slide bolt in by hand on one side. The other side went part way and I screwed it in the rest.

Last edited by RickJames Bish; Aug 6, 2015 at 10:18 AM.
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 10:23 AM
  #24696  
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From: Tehachapi CA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Originally Posted by salad
FIEN THEN



Verbosity Man, attack!

XJs and ZJs came with many different lengths shafts, and many are compatible. Check out the chart here: http://www.myjeepxj.com/useful-infor...aft-infomation

The collapsed length should be no more than 1.5" less than the span between the new transfer case fixed yoke and the axle's pinion yoke. If I recall correctly, the factory drive shafts have 3" travel.

Very commonly, folks on 3"-4.5" lift with AW4 (longest transmission) and C8.25 (longest axle) are able to use the front shaft from a similar configuration. My XJ has an AX-15, so I need a long shaft from a ZJ.

Don't forget, throughout this whole process, you can run your XJ without a rear drive shaft by putting the transfer case in 4WD. Presto, FWD Jeep that isn't a Kia clone or Dodge KK!!! If your transfer case is 1996 or newer this works great, if it's 1995 or prior you'll need to place a bag over the rear shaft (if you haven't installed the SYE yet) or it'll just dump ATF out the back.
So it sounds like no matter what I should go ahead and buy this.. http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...tegory_Code=UP , install and measure for the shaft. Or based on the knowledge that I have the 242 newer style case on TC, Chrysler 8.25 29 and AW4 transmission, go ahead and find a front axle from a like Cherokee ?

NOTE>> I have a 242 TC when I had been saying it was a 231

If anyone here has done this hack would you happen to have this http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...uct_Code=10197 and be willing to lend it ? $30 for something I will use once.. don't know if I can make myself do that. Also my jeep has the 29 spline axle rather than the 27. That does not mean my output shaft on the TC would be 29 does it ?

Last edited by RickJames Bish; Aug 6, 2015 at 10:56 AM.
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 10:59 AM
  #24697  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by RickJames Bish
So it sounds like no matter what I should go ahead and buy this.. http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...tegory_Code=UP , install and measure for the shaft. Or based on the knowledge that I have the 242 newer style case on TC, Chrysler 8.25 29 and AW4 transmission, go ahead and find a front axle from a like Cherokee ?

NOTE>> I have a 242 TC when I had been saying it was a 231

If anyone here has done this hack would you happen to have this http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...uct_Code=10197 and be willing to lend it ? $30 for something I will use once.. don't know if I can make myself do that. Also my jeep has the 29 spline axle rather than the 27. That does not mean my output shaft on the TC would be 29 does it ?
The fact that you have a 242, you have to do a hack n tap. Very expensive to do a full sye on that compared to a 231
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 11:17 AM
  #24698  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by RickJames Bish
So it sounds like no matter what I should go ahead and buy this.. http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...tegory_Code=UP , install and measure for the shaft. Or based on the knowledge that I have the 242 newer style case on TC, Chrysler 8.25 29 and AW4 transmission, go ahead and find a front axle from a like Cherokee ?
Front drive shaft*

I'd still wait until the deed is done. There's a strong probability you'll just need that, but I don't like to buy things until I'm certain.

Originally Posted by RickJames Bish
NOTE>> I have a 242 TC when I had been saying it was a 231
Ah yeah, well you're stuck with a H'n'T anyway! Like syco mentioned, a full SYE kit didn't even exist until this year, I think. And they're NOT cheap!

Originally Posted by RickJames Bish
If anyone here has done this hack would you happen to have this http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...uct_Code=10197 and be willing to lend it ? $30 for something I will use once.. don't know if I can make myself do that.
Might want to post up your location or check out the classifieds. I know certain people on here have that jig!

Originally Posted by RickJames Bish
Also my jeep has the 29 spline axle rather than the 27. That does not mean my output shaft on the TC would be 29 does it ?
That is referring to the spline count on the axle shafts where the side gears fit on. (there's also an implied difference on the axle shafts wherein the neck is thicker just beside that part). Nothing to do with your drive shaft or transfer case or transmission.
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 11:26 AM
  #24699  
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From: Tehachapi CA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Originally Posted by salad
Front drive shaft*

I'd still wait until the deed is done. There's a strong probability you'll just need that, but I don't like to buy things until I'm certain.



Ah yeah, well you're stuck with a H'n'T anyway! Like syco mentioned, a full SYE kit didn't even exist until this year, I think. And they're NOT cheap!



Might want to post up your location or check out the classifieds. I know certain people on here have that jig!



That is referring to the spline count on the axle shafts where the side gears fit on. (there's also an implied difference on the axle shafts wherein the neck is thicker just beside that part). Nothing to do with your drive shaft or transfer case or transmission.
I really appreciate all the input from everyone. Trying to pinch pennies here and not order something I end up not needing.

I am located in Stallion Spring CA (Tehachapi). If there is anyone here local that can offer some wisdom I would appreciate it.
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 12:28 PM
  #24700  
RickJames Bish's Avatar
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From: Tehachapi CA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Default Tom Woods SYE

So I'm seriously considering the Tom Woods SYE for The NP242. My only concern is the $400 Core Charge. You send in your old Main Shaft and if they deem it usable you get back $400, putting your total cost after refund at about $470. Now I don't know if they are referring to the Drive Shaft or the Output Shaft from the TC. I'm thinking they are referring the Output Shaft and they are simply performing the hack and tap on the returns. So essentially this is a hack and tap done professionally. My concern is the could easily say they could not use the shaft and in turn give me the shaft.

Last edited by RickJames Bish; Aug 6, 2015 at 12:33 PM.
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 12:39 PM
  #24701  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by RickJames Bish
My concern is the could easily say they could not use the shaft and in turn give me the shaft.
I see what you did there

They're a very reputable company, and if they refuse to refund your core charge, I guarantee there's a reason. I'm 99.7% positive they want the main shaft; not the driveshaft, but I have been wrong three times in my life, so...
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 01:16 PM
  #24702  
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From: San Antonio, Texas
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Can you guys tell me if my new XJ is lifted or not? I think it is, I measure 19" from the center of the hub to the fender in front and 18" in the rear. The leaf packs look flat to me.








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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 01:27 PM
  #24703  
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From: Hampton Roads
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
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Yep it is lifted. Front spring has a 2in spacer and the rear probably has a 1.5 in shackle. The stock shackle is way shorter. The shocks say pro comp (lift company) so it may be a pro comp budget boost but then they could just be shocks.
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 01:29 PM
  #24704  
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From: San Antonio, Texas
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Should the leaf pack sit flat like that and is it standard for the rear to sit lower? Thanks.
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 01:36 PM
  #24705  
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From: Hampton Roads
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
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Well the leaf spring is supposed to be arched. But all the years of roads and loads have stressed the spring into flatness. It isn't dangerous to be flat...it just won't lift your jeep up and it will buckle under heavier loads. Leaf springs can fail but it is not very frequent. I bought my jeep with 2in. blocks under the springs and mine had negative arch. (Bent past flat).

And yes the rear wheel well is half an inch shorter than the front wheel well.
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