Awesome.. looking into that right now. I see its not as strong as the other option but for what I'm doing I think it will work great.

 

If done right hack n tap are plenty strong. Hardcore crazy wheeling heavy on the peddle with 35s I would say no lol. Although I bet people will say it's working for them. The weak part of a hack n tap is that you're using the same internal shaft. With a full sye it gets upgraded. Plus a full sye the shaft don't stick out as far. That hasn't affected me though with my hack n tap

 

Weaker than a complete SYE, sure, certainly no weaker than stock!

 

Why you gotta be simplifying my answers for 😝

 

31x10.5x15 and mainly slow crawling. I see they offer a custom shaft http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/11297.html but that takes the price on up. I emailed them and asked about using a stock front shaft from another XJ and they replied "On some XJ’s a stock front XJ driveshaft will work, however it doesn’t work on all of them. " I'm guessing it depends on how high your lifted ? Should a stock front work with 3" lift ?

 

Honestly depends. What year, drivetrain, and rear axle you have again.

 

FIEN THEN

Verbosity Man, attack!

XJs and ZJs came with many different lengths shafts, and many are compatible. Check out the chart here: http://www.myjeepxj.com/useful-infor...aft-infomation

The collapsed length should be no more than 1.5" less than the span between the new transfer case fixed yoke and the axle's pinion yoke. If I recall correctly, the factory drive shafts have 3" travel.

Very commonly, folks on 3"-4.5" lift with AW4 (longest transmission) and C8.25 (longest axle) are able to use the front shaft from a similar configuration. My XJ has an AX-15, so I need a long shaft from a ZJ.

Don't forget, throughout this whole process, you can run your XJ without a rear drive shaft by putting the transfer case in 4WD. Presto, FWD Jeep that isn't a Kia clone or Dodge KK!!! If your transfer case is 1996 or newer this works great, if it's 1995 or prior you'll need to place a bag over the rear shaft (if you haven't installed the SYE yet) or it'll just dump ATF out the back.

 

I've heard rumors that a Gatorade cap on the output seal of older TCs works to stop the leaking. I can't confirm nor deny these allegations though.

 

False. A "mechanic" "friend" tried that on my MJ, and the cap fell out before I left his driveway. Would've been nice if he'd told me he did that...

 

Perfect. Allegations put to bed fast

 

Sounds like I need to hook up with someone local that knows something. I know I have the newer style case on the 231 TC. I know I have Chrysler 8.25 29 spline. Will have to identify the rest. I have a 96 Cherokee sport so I'm guessing its the AW4 transmission.

 

If it's an auto, you're correct on the AW4

 

I decided to finish my lift today but I've been stuck trying to get the new control arms on. The axle is too far back and it won't go any lower because the drag link won't come off. The pinion is pointing way high (I took out the shaft earlier). I don't have any ratchet straps. And I need to park it or my apartment complex will tow it from in front of my garage. Thanks guys

 

Responded in your thread. Hope that helps.

 

Hello, I had the exact same problem. If you have a second guy have him work the jack until its close to lining up. Then have him/her go to the other side of the axle and fenagle it back and forth, up and down until you can get it. Worked real well for me.