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Old Mar 9, 2015 | 11:09 PM
  #23896  
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I kind of understand longarms and a local guy is selling this setup. Is this worth messing with?





It's a TNT front longarm setup
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Old Mar 9, 2015 | 11:16 PM
  #23897  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Absolutely not if you want to be able to turn. Buy wheels with 3.5-4" BS, and I recommend rethinking that Rough Country kit. Take a look at Zone Offroad
Damn I bought 17x9 with -12 offset which is 4.5" of backspace and going to run 255/75/17 BFG Rubicon takeoffs.
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Old Mar 9, 2015 | 11:59 PM
  #23898  
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Hey guys would a 3 inch rough country lift fit 31s and would it all come together easy after installation of it all
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 12:05 AM
  #23899  
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Originally Posted by Rzwn321
Hey guys would a 3 inch rough country lift fit 31s and would it all come together easy after installation of it all
Yes I'm running a RC 3 inch lift with 32s and have minor rubbing in the front. 31s should be fine with little to no rubbing at all unless your flexing the jeep.
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 04:28 AM
  #23900  
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Originally Posted by CCTX98XJ
thanks for the reply. is this connection under tension, do I just unbolt it as is or need to lift the tire off the ground. I take it then the bottom bolt cnnecting the bar to the "u channel" must be pretty tight then to keep it from articulating front to back? Is there a specific bushing hardness or are they pretty much all the same. thanks
Differences will come between rubber and poly. Poly will be a little stiffer than rubber. Doesn't really make a huge difference on a jeep though - especially a lifted one. As far as tightening them down - just make sure the jeep is level side-to-side. That's the only point of tension on the swaybar. Better yet, unbolt the bottom part of the links and bolt the top of the link to the swaybar first... this way you'll know it's tight. THEN bolt the bottom part on. If you have a hard time getting the bottom part of the link on, get a jack and jack the frame up a little. If the hole for the link is too low, jack up that side a little, if it's too high, jack up the other side a little. There's no front-to-back tension on a swaybar though. Sway bar is for side-to-side stability only.... it's also known as an anti-roll bar or suspension stabilizer bar.

Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
People say JK shocks fit a 3" lift, but they didn't fit mine. They were fully extended at ride height (meaning I had exactly 0" of downtravel up front), and I don't recommend using them.

You should also be looking at a rear brake line, and up front you'll either want extended brake lines or you'll need to relocated the brackets.

Along with those, you're also going to need an extended track bar. I recommend a double shear bar, but it isn't necessary if you're staying on the street. In my opinion, Iron Rock Offroad and Rubicon Express make the best options here in a reasonable price range.

Finally, you'll need longer swaybar links or quick disconnects.
Yeah JK Shocks are only about 1.5" longer than stock XJ shocks. Rubicons might be an inch or 1.5" longer, but I'm not sure. I think Dukie ran the JK Rubi shocks on his for a little while with his bastard life (about 3" net) but upgraded later on.

Originally Posted by Nugget
I kind of understand longarms and a local guy is selling this setup. Is this worth messing with?





It's a TNT front longarm setup
Looks like a 3-link kit. Might be worth it depending on what he's asking for it. Make sure the joints are in good shape and there isn't any hokey owner-modifications done to it. It looks as though it's been painted so that could possibly be a sign that the owner "re-welded" cracks or did other modifications to it... just make sure before you buy them. I don't personally have any experience with TNT Customs, but others on here have and I think they've had good luck with them.
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 09:53 AM
  #23901  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
Yeah JK Shocks are only about 1.5" longer than stock XJ shocks. Rubicons might be an inch or 1.5" longer, but I'm not sure. I think Dukie ran the JK Rubi shocks on his for a little while with his bastard life (about 3" net) but upgraded later on.
Mine were 4dr JK Rubi shocks, and they were way too short at 3.5"
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 10:37 AM
  #23902  
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Originally Posted by Nugget
I kind of understand longarms and a local guy is selling this setup. Is this worth messing with? It's a TNT front longarm setup
Are you in the San Antonio area? A buddy of mine looked at that kit and said it was damaged some but the guy wouldn't come off his asking price. I trust my buddies opinion in this area.
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 12:29 PM
  #23903  
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Default Extended Yoke - worth it?

Have a Skyjacker 3.5 lift and 31's on an '87 ... all seems to be good now that I did a TC drop of about 1". So the question SYE @ ~ $500 all in or can I simply get an extended yoke for under $100 to reduce the risk of dropping a shaft? Not going to do rock crawling, but want to do some moderate off-road so a bit concerned that a little twist the wrong way could be very dramatic so to speak.
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 01:08 PM
  #23904  
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Originally Posted by okee87
Have a Skyjacker 3.5 lift and 31's on an '87 ... all seems to be good now that I did a TC drop of about 1". So the question SYE @ ~ $500 all in or can I simply get an extended yoke for under $100 to reduce the risk of dropping a shaft? Not going to do rock crawling, but want to do some moderate off-road so a bit concerned that a little twist the wrong way could be very dramatic so to speak.
That TC drop is covering up the real problem. It's now putting more strain on your Motor Mounts and they'll wear out prematurely. I don't know where your $500 figure came from. An SYE is about $200 and you can use a front drive shaft in the rear. My recommendation is to get an SYE with front drive shaft as soon as you can afford it.


Kind of odd to have driveline vibrations on an 87. What kind of shape are your u joints in?
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 01:42 PM
  #23905  
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I figured motor mount strain based on amount of miss-alignment when bolting back the cross member support. $500 was SYE and New rear shaft all in.

Vibration was really strong prior to TC drop, but once done, almost not felt. '87 w/ 190k miles but all new U-joints when I did the lift.

Are you saying I can take an old front drive shaft and use it with the SYE w/o buying or chopping a rear shaft?
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 02:54 PM
  #23906  
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Originally Posted by okee87
I figured motor mount strain based on amount of miss-alignment when bolting back the cross member support. $500 was SYE and New rear shaft all in.

Vibration was really strong prior to TC drop, but once done, almost not felt. '87 w/ 190k miles but all new U-joints when I did the lift.

Are you saying I can take an old front drive shaft and use it with the SYE w/o buying or chopping a rear shaft?

Exactly. Get a front drive shaft from another cherokee. Install the SYE. Bolt in spare front drive shaft. Shim rear axle to point pinion straight at driveshaft. Done.
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 03:25 PM
  #23907  
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Originally Posted by 03kingsnake
Yes I'm running a RC 3 inch lift with 32s and have minor rubbing in the front. 31s should be fine with little to no rubbing at all unless your flexing the jeep.
thanks a lot man I've decided with a 3 inch lift and 31s and then install some woofers and tweeters
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 02:46 AM
  #23908  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Mine were 4dr JK Rubi shocks, and they were way too short at 3.5"
Hmmm... maybe it wasn't him then. Either way, yeah JK shocks ain't gonna cut it.

Originally Posted by a_shirey
That TC drop is covering up the real problem. It's now putting more strain on your Motor Mounts and they'll wear out prematurely. I don't know where your $500 figure came from. An SYE is about $200 and you can use a front drive shaft in the rear. My recommendation is to get an SYE with front drive shaft as soon as you can afford it.


Kind of odd to have driveline vibrations on an 87. What kind of shape are your u joints in?
Not only that, but it also increases the angle of the front driveshaft and you'll end up eliminating vibes in the rear only to end up with them in the front. Very counterproductive. SYE FTW
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 05:06 AM
  #23909  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
Hmmm... maybe it wasn't him then. Either way, yeah JK shocks ain't gonna cut it. Not only that, but it also increases the angle of the front driveshaft and you'll end up eliminating vibes in the rear only to end up with them in the front. Very counterproductive. SYE FTW
Dukie has JKU shocks, but they are for a lifted JKU. He has 4.5" of lift so stock shocks would definitely not work.

And i forgot about the front drive shaft part. Thank you.
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 06:51 AM
  #23910  
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Default SYE Kits

Ok, you guys have me convinced SYE ....

Thoughts on JB Conversions kits???
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