First of all, I would just ditch that swaybar in the rear... it honestly doesn't affect handling on the road that much (unless you're trying to autocross your jeep - which I really wouldn't recommend if it's lifted) and the only thing it's going to do is affect your rear suspension articulation. If you're really stuck on keeping it, you need to bolt it back up last.

In order to get the rear springs on though, you're going to need to do the main eyes first, then lower the jeep down on its own weight to compress the springs some, then use a parge pry bar to get the rear eye to line up with your shackle.... then you can slide the bolt in and and tighten it up. Not a bad idea to get a buddy to help you with that part.

 

Going to 5 inches of lift from 3...I have shocks for a 3" lift so my reasoning is that I could run 5" of lift with shocks for a 3" because you can run stock shocks on a 2" budget boost...right? Also I figure id just need new lower control arms and track bar and that's it? I already have extended brake lines for a 3" lift so again I figure as long as I keep my sway bars connected I'll be okay?

 

ummmmm....No, not even close.
The geometry of your suspension changes dramatically when you make the jump to 5" of lift.
You need to do a lot of research before you jack up your rig another 2 inches....because there's lots to learn and many parts to buy.

 

I'll just post this here

 

I've seen this pic about 8 times in the past few days......

 

Cause no one searches so it needs to be brought up constantly

 

Kinda ridiculous. ...but what can ya do though...

 

Yep, I took a screenshot of this so when the time comes I won't bother anyone with a tired used up question.

 

This guy ^ knows what's up haha

 

Exactly
I made it cause I got so tired of writing out the answers a few times every day
Good call, buddy. Thanks for paying attention

 

Thanks, I realize now I was doing it in the wrong order . I'm going to keep my swaybar for now. I plan on doing some towing for a move in the spring. After that I may go ahead and remove it. It does seem to limit the travel a lot.

Thanks for your help!

 

Sorry about the repetitive question, guys. I should've been more clear. I know about driveshafts and syes and whatnot. I was asking mainly about the shocks. Not whether or not they are necessary to be there, but whether there is a difference running 3" shocks on 4.5 or running stock shocks on 2". My calculus-themed ideas seem to point to the fact that the shocks would be 2" undersized either way, so does it make a difference if I run stock shocks on a 2" lift or 3" shocks on a 4.5" lift...Because with the 4.5" I figure I'm only overextending the recommended length by 1.5" whereas on a 2" lift and stock shocks you're overextending by 2" and I see lots of people on budget boosts and stock shocks...Sorry for the confusion

 

If you're already getting the longer shocks then why not get the correct length? Why overextend them at all?

 

You don't quite have the full picture. When folks say they're running 2" budget boosts with stock shocks and "it works" they mean it's physically compatible. It rides like poop lol. Shocks need to be set up for your ride height to work *properly*.

 

Best advice I can give is to measure. I didn't heed the advice given to others and ordered 4.5" lift shocks with my 4.5" lift. Well these shocks limit my droop now. Lucky for me I bought El cheapo white body shocks. When I long arm it I plan to measure and order the correct length.