Thanks for the input. That is good to know that I don’t need to go and buy new axles altogether. I started searching a few other forums and came across people who feel the kits available to turn the Dana 30 and Dana 35 into Super 30 and Super 35 with 30 splines (http://www.quadratec.com/products/16120_454.htm) will be getting the job done pretty well. I would be looking at about half the cost of doing a complete axle swap, a ford 8.8 or dana 44 front and rear from (http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-476...-assembly.html) or a dana 60 (http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrai...ARB+Air+Locker) . The fully built axles would have the ARB lockers installed, which to my research is not something anyone can do without special training, experience and tools. Both of these would have the option for disc brakes. On one hand, I can order the complete axles and eat the shipping from ECGS, or I can order the lift kit, the rear axle, and the super dana 30 axles and locker kit from 4wheelparts.com and pick them up near by. This is my first project jeep, so it would be good experience to start with a junkyard axle, but Im eager to lift this thing already, which I cant do until I dial in the axle scenario. I understand the cost involved, and Im willing to drop the cash, but what I don’t want to do is install a kit and tires only to have to change my axles due to lack of power. Again, thanks for the experienced input.

 

I have a 94 cherokee, im looking to lift it and throw on some wheels & tires but my concern is that how much of a lift can i go before having to add extra parts to make it all work, people are talking about transfer case drops, drive shafts, control arms and alot of other stuff. So basically im looking for the highest possible lift and size tires, with just buying a lift kit and nothing extra. Thankss.

 

If you want basic, just stick with a 2" budget boost.

 

I thought you said you want 31 or 33 tires and no fender cutting. Then you're going to run possibly as big as a D60?

You can do whatever you want but I'd just keep the stock axles on 31s and throw in lockers. If you go to 33s, which is what I have: Replace the rear with a junk yard XJ D44 + put heavy duty u joints in the front + lockers = beat the crap out of it. This is a route you can do in stages without buying upgrades and then later replacing them with other upgrades. Later you can upgrade rear axles, re-gearing, front axles, brake upgrades.

I've spent almost a full year pulling D44s from 87's for myself and friends. They're not that hard to find.

 

Ok guys here it goes, I am lifting my jeep soon with a 6.5" long arm rough country kit, a Tom woods SYE and CV shaft. I will also be doing a ZJ tie rod swap along with a Durango power box and a ZJ brake booster (if I am forgetting anything I need let me know) I have stock HP D30 and D35, I plan to eventually do a rear axle swap, re-gear, locker, shafts, ect. My question is can I lightly run 35's off stock or should I stick with 33's until I attend to my axles, it is NOT my DD and I like big tires and lift, I am planning to do some light to medium wheeling mostly in mud and on the trails.

 

I'd stick with 33s until you build the axles. Not to mention 35s on stock gears will blow complete *** whereas 33s and stock gears will only blow partial ***.

 

This. I put my 35's on a couple weeks before I re geared and it sucked lol. Yes you can do it, but...

 

Thx for the input guys!!!

 

Lol I love the way you put that.

 

I thank you for the continued input. Im not likely to need something as large as the Dana 60, but that was the only online option specific to the XJ. I meet the local dealer for 4WHEELPARTS.com, and he clarified that they do Dana 44's front and rear for XJs, they are the YJ rear and TJ front. I would like to do as much at once as possible. Through their shop, I can order everything I need to get going. The quote was expensive, largely due to labor. Since the only thing that is not straight bolt on would be the rubricon express long arm kit, I feel I could do this myself with a little help in my step fathers home shop. He has all types of welders, cutting torches, a mill and a lathe, etc.
Would anyone speak against the built to order G2 axles? Part of the quote was the front and rear drive lines. It seems that you can get by with the original front, but need to use the slip yoke eliminator AND replace the rear drive line?

 

You don't need new axles for 33's an no trimming. Just a lot of lift.

 

im at 4 to 4.5 without even a tc drop every jeeps different some allow it some dont, i get some driveline vibes but screw it u joints are dirt cheap if it comes to that

 

He's a ****ing retard, a yj 44 will not bolt into an xj, not even close. Yjs are spring under, xjs are spring over. But any tj axle will bolt into an xj. Don buy custom drive lines either, run an sye an use another front xj driveshaft in the rear.if you're even a little bi mechanically inclined, you can do all of the work. I did my lift by myself when I was 19, with hand tools in my driveway.theres nothing to a bolt in axle swap, just pull the old axle out and put the new one in when you install the lift. Oh, an don't order from four wheel parts. They suck camel dick. Order your lift from seriousoffroadproducts.com if you want rubicon express. You need to get some beefy steering and skip the cheap *** shocks and buy some nice ones instead. Steering is one of the things that typically gets overlooked on otherwise solid built rigs.

 

To clarify: All TJ *front* axles are bolt-in to XJs, but don't forget that all TJ D30s are low pinion.

 

Question for all you guys. Found a local guy selling some wheels off of a JK. First off, will they fit my 01 xj with that bolt pattern? Also they are 33x12.5x17. Would I have any rubbing issues on a 4.5 in lift? They are pro comp mud terrains and they have 75% tread left. He wants $650 for the whole set of 5 wheels and tires. Is that price fair? Thanks for any feedback!