Well what 3" lift do you recommend?

 

Easy formula for loctite vs anti-sieze: if its something you will be removing often (i.e. lugs, calipers, disco internals) use anti-sieze. If it is something that needs to remain in place and not often expected to fail ( i.e. shackles bolts, control arms, springs ect.) Use loctite. I would use both in some applications. I had to cut my control arm bolts and many more cause they were rust locked inside the bushings and everything else. Anti-sieze the shoulder of the bolt, and loctite the threads. Another thing most don't thing to anti-sieze is the hubs between the studs where your wheel makes contact, you'll be glad you did the next time you rotate.

 

Well she's finally about done. RE 4.5" lift and 33x12.50x15 KM2s on some rock krawlers. Netted about 5"s in lift and the tires gave an extra boost too. So far I haven't really noticed the difference between running 29s and 33s to be honest, the stock gearing doesn't seem to be causing any trouble. Tuesday the SYE gets installed and she will be basically completed (suspension wise atleast) and this weekend is my Tranny cooler and B&M tranny gauge.

How do you guys think I should trim? I like the fenders actually, it looks good with em. But I have a good amount of rub at full lock on the back of the front wells (back of the tire catching the fender). Should I just take em off all the way?

Also I haven't flexed it out or tested the bumpstops to see if they're tall enough or to see how much they interfere with the flares.

 

Why not? I did.

 

Zone, Rusty's, or OME.

 

I LOVE my rough country series 2 3" lift with full leaf packs, ride is nice! Nitro shocks, durable springs.

 

I have the Zone 4.5 inch lift and i love it! It rides really nice and pretty cheap. I got it from the vendor on CF he gave me a great deal!

 

On the cheap side, Zone. Good, quality lift for a good price.

If you're willing to spend more, Rubicon Express. There are better kits, but they charge much more for the quality.

Most people who praise Rough Country have nothing to compare it to. It's a low quality lift that will get the job done, but you're better off with Zone in the same price range.

Rusty's makes good springs, but his other parts have a history of breaking in half. I've read that's been fixed, but I don't know. I won't personally buy from him cause he was a dick to me on the phone.

Shocks will make the biggest impact in ride quality.

I also recommend Iron Rock Offroad for steering parts, but I can't attest to their spring quality, as I've never ridden in an IRO lifted Jeep. They do NOT use Rough Country springs in their lifts, despite what some say. Their prices are competitive, and the quality of their steering parts is fantastic. I'm running their Lower Control Arms (LCAs) and Double Sheer Track Bar, and I intend to get UCAs and Over the Knuckle (OTK) steering from them later on. They've also demonstrated the best customer service of any company I've ever had to deal with.

 

Loctite blue will be fine. You'll hate life when you have to remove red.

 

Thanks for the info Corpos

Well the day has arrived, the culmination of reading endless pages of JCForum, and all the money spent. The time of waiting to install my lift is in its final hour.
I am going to start in the rear. The visually most rusted out nuts and bolts seem to be my hitch frame, which will get in the way of rear leaf eye bolt removal. However, my thought was to get the bolt out half way, then cut it. Then I was going to put the new bolt in the opposite way.
Does this sound like an OK idea??? This is the curant plan unless someone tells me otherwise.
I have new shackles too. I could also attach the leaf to the new shackle then figure out a way to get the shackle hole lined up.

 

I'm not sure but don't think you can do that. I've read several guys saying to make sure that bolt goes in the way it came out, I believe its a clearance issue with the threaded end of the bolt sticking out and hitting the frame rail or shackle box on the inside...

 

My shackle bolt was blocked by my hitch if i remember correctly. Whatever the case one of the bolts around there had to be put in the opposite way, there didnt seem to be any issue with it. So far there isnt any issue either.

 

Yeah the stock shackle eye bolt only comes out so far with a hitch so I cut mine and threaded a new one in the opposite way

 

What's up guys? I'm getting ready to put a 4.5 inch lift in my xj I have upper and lower arms, coils, adj trac bar, shocks, and bump stop ext for FRONT and for the REAR I have new bds leaf pack, shackles, u bolts, brake ext, hack and tap sye, front shaft, shims, and shocks. What I'm wondering is, will I need any thing else to make this lift work? I don't want to start it then have to wait for parts to come to finish it. I do have a t case drop but prob will not use since I'm doing the sye. Oh it is a 01 xj with Chrysler 8.25 and Dana 30 4.0 auto I think the d 30 is low pinion will that affect anything?

 

Just lifted my rear with a bastard pack from a blazer. Some things to prepare for when you do this:

The XJ springs are very hard to drill through to increase the center pin from 5/16 to 3/8 . Instead of doing this I used the helper spring and main from the XJ with the 3 springs from the blazer between and a 5/16 grade 8 round head bolt from Lowes.

If you plan on drilling out to use a 3/8 center pin remember you will probably have to drill out the hole on the bracket between the axle and the leaf pack too.