I'm stuck and iv searched threads and multiple times on google. I recently bought a 2000 xj and previous owners have thrashed it. I have rebuilt it basically from the ground up with new motor and trans mounts new bellhousing due to old one wasn't there. New ttransfer case because old one was JB welded installed 3"trail master lift. and some other nonrelevant upgrades. but now I can't get the jeep to go into 4 low. When looking at it it seems transmission and leaning right and rear drive shaft is going right. Almost as if thrust angle is off tho I just got it aligned. The 4wd linkage it's self is binding as in the L shaped bracket is hitting the bracket that's attached to the bottom of the body. Iv looked and reasearched and I cant find out what I have done wrong. I'm turning to you guys who have more knowledge than me when it comes to this. I'm sure it's something stupid and obvious I did but I just need a little help please. Thanks.

 

did you adjust your linkage properly?

Pictures?

 

Adjusted and still no luck will post pictures tonight

 

Busted motor mount.

 

It won't go into 4 low. And linkage is also hitting bottom of floor. New motor mounts and trans but I know just because its new doesn't mean its good.








Here the bracket itself is hitting the mounting point of the 4wd like it's to far left. Seems like trans and engine isn't straight





Bad picture but the driveline is going left almost like thrust angle is off





This is a brand new trans mount and its already starting to **** out




Just looking for some feed back maybe I missed something but would could cause all this to be this badly misaligned?

 

Motor mounts

 

And trans mount.

 

But those are new motor and tranny mounts!
Something else is screwy.
Is the crossmember mounted wrong or do you have the wrong tranny mount? Or is the tranny mount in wrong holes on crossmember?

Was it the correct bell housing that was installed?
Are the engine mount brackets not broken?
Are the frame-rails bent at motor mount locations?
Is the engine in-line front to back? Where does the off-angle begin?

 

i agree. it looks a little offside.

but besides all that, what transfer case did you pull and what did you put back in?
like was it a 231 originally and you might have replaced it with a 242 with the extra gear (4 full time), therefore the throw would be longer to reach 4lo.

am i making sense?

 

Hmmmm.

From Jon Kelley aka 5-90 @ www.kelleyswip.com



This is a known issue.

1) Unless you're going to get silly with the skinny pedal, 2xSAE8 screws on one side won't be a huge problem. You'd be better off with three, but if you don't get silly you'll be okeh.

2) The Brown Dog engine mounts use two or three additional holes on each side, and spread the mount/clamping force over more of the block. This is invariably a good idea, and I'll probably be doing it as I refit my 88.

3) The primary reason that the screws snap is because, sometimes, the screw holes in the block aren't drilled & tapped deeply enough. This causes the screw to bottom out in the hole, so you end up torquing against the bottom of the hole instead of stretching the screw (as you're supposed to do. Not your fault - you aren't doing anything wrong.) The screw is not stretched properly, and the head is not butted up against the bracket, so there's some room to move there. Vibration then causes wear cycles on the screw, which generally leads to rupture.

The easy/cheap fix? When you replace the screws (3/8"-16x1.25", as I recall,) put two flat washers under the head before you screw it into the hole.

The check? Take a feeler gage (.003" to .005") and try to slide it under the head of the screw. You'll be able to get under the corners (look at the hex head, and you'll see that the surfaces curve toward each other slightly) if it's a standard hex head - if it's a flanged hex head, you should not be able to get under the head anywhere. If you can slip the gage under the head, you have a problem. If you can touch the shank of the screw, you have a big problem!

In no case should you reuse the screws after you take them out - they'll be stressed under the head, and you'll have a significant reduction in strength. Replace them outright, putting washers under the head as I mentioned before. The washers will make up for the slight lack of depth in the hole (two of them will be about 0.125" or so,) and allow the screw to be preloaded properly.

 

^ Makes perfect sense, but it appears the issue is the major misalignment between the transfer case and rear axle.

 

Yeah, but who knows where the drivetrain combo is gonna go when motor mount bracket bolts break.

 

My best guess, and the most simple is, the tranny mount went in the wrong holes on crossmember.

 

Good thought!!