The bearings in Yukon's install kit are Made in USA Timken, the same as oem.

I'm interested to see what kind of bearings came with the Revolution kit also.

 

Timken and Koyo are both good quality bearings, and both are used by oem manufacturers. I want so see what brand comes in the Revoulution kit because I want to buy the same brand to make setup bearings when I get around to ordering mine.

 

"Hind Sight is always 20/20" that's what I'm thinking.

I should have bought the 4.88 at the smallest purchase price, and got the install kit from Yukon.

I honestly believe there all coming from the same manufacturer.

The factory bearing is getting modified for set up purposes with my install.

 

G'ma told me that almost 45 yrs ago..................

 

What tire size are you going to run with the 4.88 gears? I am going to put 35s on eventually and I can't decide if I want to go with 4.56 or 4.88s. The main thing that worrys me about the 4.88s is how small the pinion gear is on the dana 30.

 

I'm Still undecided, either a 35 or 37. I have Rusty's 6.5 spring pack, 4.88 is the gear for those sizes.

Pinion diameter with the size of the thirty ring gear is a valid concern, tooth contact will be low.

Even with the 8.25 it's "sketchy", the 3.55's pinion diameter is almost twice that of the 4.88's

I have a 44 in the front, it's a slightly larger diameter ring gear than the 8.25. Which is odd but..

 

They use Koyo Bearings

 

Good to know, thanks!!


Here's a picture of Yukon's 4.88 on the carrier/diff. case.

It seem to be the spot to grind that will remove the least material.

 

 

​​​​​​That's a good question.
I cut a radius on a wheel today, "somewhat" similar to the center pin. I saw a video on you tube from Yukon about grinding a thick ring gear for center pin clearance. They used a die grinder, which is fine. I have access to a surface grinder so I'll be using that method.

The answer to the question is...you could Imo.
It's a pain to install and un-install a ring gear onto the carrier. I keep the carrier in the freezer and use a 1500 watt hft heat gun on the ring to keep things moving, getting the picture of the gear on the carrier in that position was a lot of work. Typically you only have a couple minutes before everything shrinks back together and you have to get the gear off w/ a punch and two flathead screwdrivers.

More than likely you'll want to grind it off the carrier, you'll get skilled at removing and installing the ring while your finding the best place to grind it.

I'll post pictures of how i clearanced the gear soon!

 

Where would you grind it off the carrier anyway ??





You CAN NOT grind it off the carrier....that would change how the pinion & ring gear mesh, and you'd have way more problems setting it up, if it even will.

 

I'm refering to grinding the material off the ring gear when it's not installed on the carrier, that's what op was asking to.

 

you mean the tooth ???

cuz it sounded like someone was suggesting taking it off the backside of the ring gear

or maybe I was just tired when I read it that way......

 

Actually op does say "did you grind it off the ring or the carrier", I figured he meant with the ring on or off the carrier.




I clearanced the gear for the center pin like this, with a surface grinder.




It still needs a little more work. Getting there though!

 

So,


I finally finished grinding clearance into the 4.88 ring gear for my 8.25.

Not my thread but.. it's relevant information


I used a surface grinder for most of it, the Dremel made an appearance to of course.


I couldn't find any pictures like this related strictly to the 8.25 w/4.88.
I think it came out good, hope the pictures help anyone who is going to take on this project.