So I recently bought a Niner and that's been getting most of my money. My XJ is about to come out of storage and I'll be driving it again soon. Regearing is on my mind, but would it be wise to get the tires first, drive, maybe wheel, and then get the gears? I was going to try and find a used set of 35s and see how they are, but I checked Tirerack and a set of 4 BFGoodrich AT T/A KOs are $772, which isn't too bad for new tires, IMO. Going to try and look for used before I drop that much.

If I plan on keeping the 30/8.25, would reinforcing them be worth it? I already have chromoly and an Aussie in the 30, and can get chromoly in the 8.25, although I've been wanting to lock the rear too. Possibly a truss kit?




Cheers

 

get the gears first. or else you may never get them

I had a 35" BFG KO as a spare and I had to run it for about a month. off road, AT's are just the dumbest most awful thing to downgrade to from an MT. I lost the bead, it wouldnt grip, it was driving me crazy. unless you're running 31's or or streeting your jeep 98% of the time, forget an AT

get some mud terrains. build up your axles over time. diff covers, full circle snap rings, chromos, just whatever you can find on craigslist or buy new if you feel the need

most importantly. GEARS FIRST

 

I have 4.56's and 35" claws on my DD. Isn't exactly fun, but it has more power than 3.55's and 33x10.5 KM2's. 4.56's and 33's was fast and fun to drive.

 

Right on. I agree with the ATs. I just bought my first set of ATs actually for my Niner, stock size. It'll see mainly roads, with a little woods and stuff. I'll slowly build up my axles, including regearing and get 35s after that. I just have MTs now and I got into an accident since I couldn't get traction in the rain and slid into another car. Although I've been told the Kevlars are nice in the rain. I'm sure I can find a nice MT.


Hmm.. I don't exactly need speed, since this is no longer my DD, but I will want to drive it around and possibly take the highway if I need to. Are 4.56s OK then with 35s? How would 4.88 be on 33s initially, then moving up to 35s later?




I was considering 37s as my end game for my Jeep, but I have a bit invested as it is in my D30 (locker and chromoly), and I want to still DD this, and when new 37s are around $2,500.. I'll pass haha. I was wondering though, if I reinforce the D30 tube, would I run into an issue with my chromoly shafts or is there no clearance issue?

 

I have truss, sleeves, gussets, chromos, locker on d30 with 4.88s and 35s. On the highway with 4.88s it really sucks down the fuel. 8.25 in the back with 1541h axles and truss and locker. If you're going to be dding and staying on 35s I'd do 4.56. I don't think I needed to go all out on the axles like I did but oh well. Ill probably try 37s again when my 35s are bald.

 

new 37's are more like $1500 for a set of 4.. I'm looking at the kevlars. are you seeing $2500 for a set of 5 or something?

but D30 on 37's is just pure sillyness and unnessecary. 35's truly are the max for a D30 as far as gear ratio, braking power, and strength goes (even if they're lightweight bias ply, 35 is still the max!). no if's ands or but's. get used to replacing parts and if you have 4.88's, better get used to blowing pinions

I also dont see the point in tuble sleeves. once you get chromos and a truss, your weak point is going to be carrier, pinion and probably ujoint (pinions being the most often breakage I've seen). so why bother with sleeves

just go with 35's and 4.56's and full circle snap rings. you'll be fine. next on the list is steering

 

Full case locker to replace that weak open carrier.

 

I'm going to 4.88s on 33s real soon. I looked at the engine speed vs. road speed with a gear ratio calculator and the difference between 4.56s and 4.88s didn't seem that bad.

Try it out, you can play with all the numbers http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

 

I don't take that chart too literally. Going 70-80 felt really over geared. Otherwise it was great on 33's. Offroad was much better... Not too big of a difference with 35's climbing stuff.

 

You think with a built D30/8.25 they can handle 37s? I'd be fine with 35s though.


I just double checked.. I was looking at the Wrangler MTs lol. I checked the Kevlars and they're $1500. Looking at Tirerack. I have a rear disc conversion waiting to go on my 8.25, and I'll probably get better calipers for the front as well. And what should steering look like? I currently have Rusty's HD tie rod, Moog drag link, and an IRO double shear adjustable track bar. Would I benefit from a 1 ton upgrade?

 

30/8.25 would handle that... Parked.

Not the way I wheel at least.

You've got about 6-7" of lift, right?

Crossover steering for the best angles, WJ swap would be nice for that and the bigger breaks.

 

33s and 4.88s blows so bad on the highway.

 

something with bigger tie rod ends for sure. the ZJ stuff was nice but I still burned through the ends pretty quick on 35's. I'd do what 94xjsport said and get something that relocates the track bar and raises the steering OTK. in fact that would be on my list before tires even if you're over 5" of lift. you dont even realize how bad your steering angles are until you upgrade

 

37s aren't really practical anyway. Like I said, I want to DD whenever, and I don't want to wear down 37s. This is how my steering looks now, but with a new Moog drag link. And yeah, I'm at about 7''.


So crossover and the WJ knuckle swap along with the brakes and I'd be fine then?


What's a good ratio for DD/wheeling?

 

WJ brakes would be ideal. but that's typically a lot of cash to put into a D30. I recommend ruffstuff crossover or some sort of T-link setup. anything to get rid of the y-link design. what a difference in handling on road that is