stockbutcaged

My chassis is solid, beyond that what do I need to make my rig capable of taking any beating? (for context I bring 2 sets of D30 shafts and go hard till I don't have any to spare on 33s)

I see people run 37s on front dana 44s, are they capable of taking a beating locked on 35s?
Should I upgrade the 8.8 I have or swap it?
Are the driveshafts/transfer case/transmission fine stock?
How will my steering box hold up? I don't particularly want to drop $ on hydrosteer, other options?

FYI I will never run 37s.

Lynn Gräber

ya gotta **** around to find out.

That Jeep Guy XJMJ

I can attest to my former dana 30 not handling 36"iroks with 4.56 gears and open diff. I similarily to you would bring a spre set or two of shafts and wheel with the intentions of replacing them. This was more technical crawling and some hill killing.

RCV shafts would have been my next big investment if I hadn't set my eyes on a dana60 build/swap instead. I wanted to move uo to 37s and potentially into the low 40s over time.

I also ran a ford 8.8 and never had an issue there on the 36"

Other upgrades? Wide chain setup in your tcase. Durango steering box and good frame stiffners up front.

stockbutcaged

Ok so the T-case is the only driveline component subject to breaking on 44/8.8 and 35s at the chain?
Will a Durango box be enough?

4.3L XJ

A D30 is not going to hold up well to a "rock bouncer" type of wheeling. The ball joints are too weak and 27 spline axle shafts are not up to locked 35s. This is especially true of a selectable locker which multiplies the forces on those smaller shafts. A D44 will be OK for most applications, but again stay away from selectable lockers

00t444e

Upgrade to chomoly shafts in the Dana 30, wide chain and 6 pinion planetary kit for the NP231 and get a steering box brace for the front that ties it in on the other side and you will be fine with 35s. The 8.8 will handle it no problem.

stockbutcaged

Agreed on d30, sorry I didn't clarify that as a given to me. I do ball joints every season as maintinance which is a pain.
What's the issue with selectable lockers?

stockbutcaged

Ooooo thats getting pricey on the T case. Anything stock off something else not too hard to swap in? If I have a track bar brace that links both uni-frames is that sufficient?

That Jeep Guy XJMJ

6 point planetary from a dodge (231D tcase) and then the chain and sprockets from a chevy (231C or 233C tcase) = 231J HD

4.3L XJ

Selectable lockers lock both axles together. Both tires have to turn the same speed at all times when locked. It is even worse when you have them at both ends. An auto locker is easier because the tires will turn the same speed because the one side without traction will lock and let the other ratchet. To get an idea of the forces involved just lock the transfer case on dry pavement, which you will be doing on rocks and then try to turn and see what happens to the steering wheel in a sharp turn. The side that can ratchet will relieve some of that stress and not force at least one wheel to break traction or an axle in the case of the D30

00t444e

No, that doesn't brace the steering box at all. I have both.

That Jeep Guy XJMJ

BTW, when do we get to see this xj rock bouncer?

Dex Jeeps on YouTube is an awfully inspiring stocker jeep rocker if your not aware of him check out his stuff

Big David

I will confirm that you can in fact rock bounce in a XJ.
Word of advice is to let off the gas when you are airborne so that you don’t Bluetooth your driveline. Once back on terra firm hammer back down.
I would not ever advise anyone to invest in cromo shafts in a 30 or even a 44 unless you want the ring gear to be the weak link.
Stock shafts are plenty strong as long as you address the issue with the caps working out of u joints.

Oh……. & bring spares.