Originally Posted by Jamie57

This is my 2000 4WD XJ with 33X15X12.5 Wrangler Duratracs using CAD brackets from a company I won't mention because they were more redneck build than a real redneck would have done. My mistake. I always learn the hard way.


I have my original lower and upper control arms on this. I have also had a professional alignment done on it and it tracks straight as an arrow and rides just like it did when I bought it.


YOU DO NOT NEED adjustable arms. On a 2WD beam or a D30 high or low pinion when running CAD. Anyone who tells you different DOES NOT KNOW proper suspension geometry. The whole point of CAD is to lower the entire attachment point of the original suspension so the control arms are in the original level plane from the factory.


For a 19 year old kid I think you got it better than some of the older guys WHO CAN"T READ!
Here is a little tip I also had to learn the hard way. Get a ZJ pitman arm and an adjustable track bar.
It's up to you if you want to go with a tie rod end style or a double shear.
Do NOT get a 4-6" drop pitman arm. My bump steer was murder till I replaced it with the ZJ pitman and a double shear drop bracketed trackbar.

Originally Posted by Jamie57

This is my 2000 4WD XJ with 33X15X12.5 Wrangler Duratracs using CAD brackets from a company I won't mention because they were more redneck build than a real redneck would have done. My mistake. I always learn the hard way.


I have my original lower and upper control arms on this. I have also had a professional alignment done on it and it tracks straight as an arrow and rides just like it did when I bought it.


YOU DO NOT NEED adjustable arms. On a 2WD beam or a D30 high or low pinion when running CAD. Anyone who tells you different DOES NOT KNOW proper suspension geometry. The whole point of CAD is to lower the entire attachment point of the original suspension so the control arms are in the original level plane from the factory.


For a 19 year old kid I think you got it better than some of the older guys WHO CAN"T READ!
Here is a little tip I also had to learn the hard way. Get a ZJ pitman arm and an adjustable track bar.
It's up to you if you want to go with a tie rod end style or a double shear.
Do NOT get a 4-6" drop pitman arm. My bump steer was murder till I replaced it with the ZJ pitman and a double shear drop bracketed trackbar.

Originally Posted by EvstaG

In theory, you are correct about how CAD brackets are supposed to work. In the reality, no set I have seen have properly returned the control arms to "stock" geometry. Saying that YOU didnt need brackets with your red neck fab brackets doesnt mean that the situation will be the same for everyone. Though I hope that if the OP is as good at fab as he says, he can correct his geometry just like you. But then you still have to wheel on the tin foil stock arms.

On a side note, from someone running the same rims and tires as you, did you have to adjust the steering stops? There is no way you can get decent flex out of those 33's with such an offset rim and the stock flare. I am always supportive of downtravel, but it seems like you have to rely solely on it.

Originally Posted by Jamie57

Sorry but what brackets are you talking about? the CAD brackets themselves or something else? I didn't make them. I bought them from Rocky Road and I am very P'OD at the machine work on them. The holes are flame cut and then not dressed leaving a kerf that I had to grind out so the bolts (which they supplied the wrong size) would move in the adjustment slots.
Yes the original control arms are less then desirable and I do plan on changing them to a long arm setup sometime in the future. I did have a set of Rubicon Express arms I got for nothing but I ended up trading them for a D30 with 4:10 gears to match my rear axle. I will be changing them as money becomes available.
The ION wheels have a 3.75" backspace so I didn't have to touch the steering stops. It still turns extremely sharp. At least until the Ujoints start to bind while in 4WD. Like I said earlier I don't have access to trails where I would need extreme amounts of flex so it suits my style of driving with out massive modifications.

Originally Posted by Jamie57

This is my 2000 4WD XJ with 33X15X12.5 Wrangler Duratracs using CAD brackets from a company I won't mention because they were more redneck build than a real redneck would have done. My mistake. I always learn the hard way. I have my original lower and upper control arms on this. I have also had a professional alignment done on it and it tracks straight as an arrow and rides just like it did when I bought it. YOU DO NOT NEED adjustable arms. On a 2WD beam or a D30 high or low pinion when running CAD. Anyone who tells you different DOES NOT KNOW proper suspension geometry. The whole point of CAD is to lower the entire attachment point of the original suspension so the control arms are in the original level plane from the factory. For a 19 year old kid I think you got it better than some of the older guys WHO CAN"T READ! Here is a little tip I also had to learn the hard way. Get a ZJ pitman arm and an adjustable track bar. It's up to you if you want to go with a tie rod end style or a double shear. Do NOT get a 4-6" drop pitman arm. My bump steer was murder till I replaced it with the ZJ pitman and a double shear drop bracketed trackbar.

Originally Posted by Jamie57

Sorry but what brackets are you talking about? the CAD brackets themselves or something else? I didn't make them. I bought them from Rocky Road and I am very P'OD at the machine work on them. The holes are flame cut and then not dressed leaving a kerf that I had to grind out so the bolts (which they supplied the wrong size) would move in the adjustment slots. Yes the original control arms are less then desirable and I do plan on changing them to a long arm setup sometime in the future. I did have a set of Rubicon Express arms I got for nothing but I ended up trading them for a D30 with 4:10 gears to match my rear axle. I will be changing them as money becomes available. The ION wheels have a 3.75" backspace so I didn't have to touch the steering stops. It still turns extremely sharp. At least until the Ujoints start to bind while in 4WD. Like I said earlier I don't have access to trails where I would need extreme amounts of flex so it suits my style of driving with out massive modifications.