There is no real advantage to a 7" vs 8" rim performance wise, but I think in general if you are goin to run a 10.50, you are ok on a 7" rim. But an 8" rim is better and is probably safer when aired down. As for adjusting the stops, I believe you will find yours tack welded in place. That is unless a PO had the same idea... But idk, you could try soaking the bolts in PB for a couple days, then grind the tack down and hit it with a torch and see if it will come loose. I have a rubbing issue at left lock on my 235's.. I just try to be aware. Tubular lca's will help this issue, too.
With a stock wheel whether 7" or 8", you might need to adjust the steering stops about 1/16-1/8" to keep the tires from rubbing On the lower control arms. 7" rim OK for a 31" tire, might slip the bead if you air down below 20#.
Idk.. Ive heard of people runnin 33's and 35's at like 10-15lbs. on 7 and 8 inch rims with no headlocks and no slipped beads.
go with 31s!!! i went with 30s when i did my 3 inch lift and i highly regret it! now i cant go up to 4.5 inches of lift. because my tires will look even smaller. they already look too small
With my beat up rig I went 3.5 on a set of stock 15 inch meshies off and older country ( I love that old trans am style wheel for some odd reason) I put 31105015 allterrain ko on the front I got some rubbing on lower controls arm on drivers side when full lock to left after it settled. The rear I had to relocate my rear swaybar links with brackets I fabbed up but ended up just taking her off entirely I kinda like the look of the factory bs with bigger tires they tuck under neath pretty well
I'm running 265/70r17s the wheel adapters are 1 1/2 " thick it sets the wheel at just about a 50% offset , it's better then the other wheels I had that stuck the tires out to far. the new tires don't rub any sway bars or the control arms when I turn .
