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2000 cherokee 5.7 swap

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Old May 4, 2014 | 04:31 PM
  #1  
77olds's Avatar
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From: Lansing, MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default 2000 cherokee 5.7 swap

Think my engine is done. Disappearing coolant, random oil pressure loss, random knock at start up... Nothing constant, no misses, clean oil, knocking goes away if I shut off and restart, but it didn't just come from nowhere.

ANYWAY point is I have a good TBI 5.7 from a 92 Roadmaster I can throw a manifold and carb on.

What else would I need to convert my XJ to a 350? Are there engine mount kits? Trans adapter? Shift controller?
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Old May 4, 2014 | 04:43 PM
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Novak and Advance Adapters. Check them out. But be ready for the wallet to get thinner.
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Old May 4, 2014 | 04:50 PM
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From: Lansing, MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by RubberSideUp
Novak and Advance Adapters. Check them out. But be ready for the wallet to get thinner.
It's either that or buy a new motor. Not sure which would turn out to be the better option.
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Old May 4, 2014 | 04:57 PM
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I always use used 4.0Ls from the junk yard or just buy a donor XJ. Unless you're getting a stroker, then it's ATK or Golen IMHO.
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Old May 4, 2014 | 06:01 PM
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From: Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
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If you want to use a 350 you'll need a GM 4WD transmission (the 700r4 or 4L60E would probably be preferred, you could use a TH350 or TH400 but they you would have no OD).


Aside from that you can get adaptors for just about everything else as RubberSideUp stated. It is really a matter of what you want, I doubt a SBC swap would be much cheaper than a new 4.7L/4.9L stroker I6 after all the various adaptors, mounts, etc. (just the adaptors, mounts, linkages, etc. will cost over $1k) and will certainly be more than a Junkyard 4.0L I6.

Last edited by dmill89; May 4, 2014 at 06:06 PM.
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Old May 4, 2014 | 09:07 PM
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77olds's Avatar
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From: Lansing, MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Yeah you're probably right. I'm just really upset. Of all of the Cherokees i could have bought, i bought the ONE year (ok, I guess the 01's are guilty of this too) that they f'ed up the motors.

As far as i can figure my coolant leak isn't a big one, but it's enough to cause one or more of the lifters to collapse. The reason I think this is because sometimes when starting, it'll tick REALLY loudly but go away after just a few seconds - like the lifter is pumping up. I have to imagine that coolant is washing out the lifter or something, that's the only thing that makes any sense. My oil pressure is over 40 while on the highway, and between 10 and 20 while idling warm... but ONE time, and I do mean once, it hasn't happened since, my CHECK GAUGES light came on and the Oil gauge read zero - but came right back when I shut it off and restarted. And this was before the ticking began.

At the moment the engine is probably salvageable but it's probably going to need lifters and maybe even a cam after a few more starts like that.
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Old May 4, 2014 | 10:20 PM
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From: Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
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Originally Posted by 77olds
Yeah you're probably right. I'm just really upset. Of all of the Cherokees i could have bought, i bought the ONE year (ok, I guess the 01's are guilty of this too) that they f'ed up the motors.

As far as i can figure my coolant leak isn't a big one, but it's enough to cause one or more of the lifters to collapse. The reason I think this is because sometimes when starting, it'll tick REALLY loudly but go away after just a few seconds - like the lifter is pumping up. I have to imagine that coolant is washing out the lifter or something, that's the only thing that makes any sense. My oil pressure is over 40 while on the highway, and between 10 and 20 while idling warm... but ONE time, and I do mean once, it hasn't happened since, my CHECK GAUGES light came on and the Oil gauge read zero - but came right back when I shut it off and restarted. And this was before the ticking began.

At the moment the engine is probably salvageable but it's probably going to need lifters and maybe even a cam after a few more starts like that.

The best thing to do is probably to drop the pan and inspect the bearings. Any engine is salvageable as long as the block isn't cracked but if it needs a full-rebuild, a used engine will generally be cheaper than a re-build kit and replacement head.


For replacement engines I would recommend either a complete 97-99 engine and either fab-ing up some coil-mounts out using a
Dodge Viper coil
(remote mount with plug-wires so you can find any convenient spot to mount it) or a block (if yours is bad, I believe any 91-01 XJ block will work, but 97+ are the most "bolt-in" when it comes to wiring, sensors, etc.) and either a "TUPY" head from an 02-04 WJ/ 02-06 TJ or a new head from someone like Clearwater cylinder heads. I would generally avoid complete 00-01 engines with the original 0331 head due to the risk of having the same problem again.

Last edited by dmill89; May 4, 2014 at 10:23 PM.
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Old May 5, 2014 | 02:12 AM
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I would keep it 4.0 either rebuild or replace it with another one.The tbi v8s are kinda gutless and running a carb off road is a nightmare trust me.Going up a step hill the carb will lean out on you,Or going down a step hill it can flood out for you.Same thing if you get off center step enough it will effect the carbs floats.
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Old May 5, 2014 | 02:35 AM
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If you have the AX-15, you can keep your transmission and transfer case. If you have an automatic, throw a TH350 or 700R4 behind the 350, along with transfer case of your choice...you can find 700R4s with the NP241 behind it, which would work fine for the XJ, as long as the transfer case comes out of an IFS truck. Should be easy to find that combo for a good price too.
You'll also need the engine mounts, new radiator, tranny crossmember (might have to make that, I know I'm going to have to make my own crossmember).
Also, I'd forget about the TBI 350, I'd start with a Vortec or a Gen III engine, you'll have a lot better power out of one of those, I'm putting a Vortec 350 with a Holley Truck Avenger carb in my 87.

For me personally, I'm going with the V8, and new tranny and transfer case, simply because it won't cost me much more to do that than it would to replace my original engine and tranny. If I had a 4.0 and AX-15 I would just replace the engine with another 4.0, but my 2.5 and AX-5 are both in need of replacement.
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Old May 5, 2014 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by kirknd4spd
I
For me personally, I'm going with the V8, and new tranny and transfer case, simply because it won't cost me much more to do that than it would to replace my original engine and tranny. If I had a 4.0 and AX-15 I would just replace the engine with another 4.0, but my 2.5 and AX-5 are both in need of replacement.
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Old May 5, 2014 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by RubberSideUp
I've figured out the costs. For me to rebuild my 2.5 and put a new AX5 in mine, it would only cost a few hundred less than throwing in a used Vortec 350 with a junkyard AX-15. I'd rather have the used 350 than another 2.5.
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Old May 5, 2014 | 11:51 PM
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Old May 6, 2014 | 12:06 AM
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with the increasing availability of v8 swap kits (i.e. novaks mounts, adapters, etc) i see no reason to swap in another 4.0, assuming that one would keep their xj long term. An LSx is so much more efficient in every way, which is why i intend on going the LS2 route once my 4.0 dies, knock on wood.
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Old May 6, 2014 | 09:13 AM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by M5 253
with the increasing availability of v8 swap kits (i.e. novaks mounts, adapters, etc) i see no reason to swap in another 4.0, assuming that one would keep their xj long term. An LSx is so much more efficient in every way, which is why i intend on going the LS2 route once my 4.0 dies, knock on wood.
yup ill be going 5.3 in a couple years or maybe a 6.0l if i can find one

i love the tbi 350 tho, its super simple and reliable, ive always wanted to swap one of them in to an s10 but that would be easy
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 05:21 PM
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6cyl
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I'm starting a 350 swap now. Punched out to a 383 with a eagle crank and diamond pistons. Hot cam kit matched to dual roller rocker arms. That will be matched up to a 4l60 (does not matter if it's a 4x4 or 2wd) adapted to my np231 and of coarse new drive shafts.
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