1996 XJ lift
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 3,700
Likes: 238
From: Groton, MA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Agree - 2" budget boost with coil spacers and extended leaf spring shackle (though, if your springs are very old or saggy, you might want to bite the bullet and do the always painful leaf spring replacement since removing the frame-to-shackle bolts (and spring to shackle bolts) is half the battle.
At 3.5 inch you need to also do longer shocks .
I believe @4 inch you need to do brake lines and such as well.
Make sure your lift comes with the add a leaf AND clamps. Or if you have more time you can do a leaf out of an s10 and blah blah but for $100 piecing together a kit off eBay is kinda the way to go without spending hundreds from quadratech and getting shocks and bs with it. Not that's that's bad, it's just not cheap and possibly not necessary
There's a thread or something that has each lift height and what needs done either here or on Google I can't remember.
Hope it helps
- skurt
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 8
From: Northern New Mexico
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You don't want any part of an add a leaf..beleieve me. I went that route at first for my 2 inch lift and junked it after a few months. The ride is garbage
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Seasoned Member


Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 353
Likes: 33
From: Ivory Coast, west Africa
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: Toyota 2.4l diesel non-turbo (from a 1985 pickup) installed in 2009
More than 3" and you'll need to spend money to avoid vibrations.
.............XJ lift size chart
..For ease of movement under your XJ
..(add about 1.5" if you use a creeper)
If your waist size is... Lift your Jeep...
................40"...................1.5"
................42"...................2"
................44"...................3"
................46"...................3.5"
................48"...................4"
................50"...................5"
................52"...................6"
.............XJ lift size chart
..For ease of movement under your XJ
..(add about 1.5" if you use a creeper)
If your waist size is... Lift your Jeep...
................40"...................1.5"
................42"...................2"
................44"...................3"
................46"...................3.5"
................48"...................4"
................50"...................5"
................52"...................6"
I went with a Rough Country series II 3in add a leaf with shocks. Drives good for the most part, hit a bump doing around 55 mph and it started to shake until I slowed down. How can I fix that from happening again. Thanks
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 3,700
Likes: 238
From: Groton, MA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
What was shaking, the back or the front?
If it's the back, did you lower the full weight of the vehicle on the springs before applying the specified torque? If not, jack it back up, loosen those BFB (bf bolts) and the u-bolts, lower it and shake it back and forth a bit, then torque the bolts.
If it's the front, see "death wobble" and start with the track bar.
3" of lift is enough to throw off the drive line angles and axle location (in the front)... if you didn't do ALL the recommended upgrades (like adjustable track bar, control arms etc) that's a possibility. The lift section guys would know best about that stuff specifically.
The most likely "quick fix" though would be to lower the transfer case. A couple of thick grade 8 washers between the crossmember and the frame rails is sufficient (so long as you have enough of the studs to get the nut on).
Bad tires can wobble/vibe at speed, so if it's one wheel, swap the tires around to isolate.
If it's the back, did you lower the full weight of the vehicle on the springs before applying the specified torque? If not, jack it back up, loosen those BFB (bf bolts) and the u-bolts, lower it and shake it back and forth a bit, then torque the bolts.
If it's the front, see "death wobble" and start with the track bar.
3" of lift is enough to throw off the drive line angles and axle location (in the front)... if you didn't do ALL the recommended upgrades (like adjustable track bar, control arms etc) that's a possibility. The lift section guys would know best about that stuff specifically.
The most likely "quick fix" though would be to lower the transfer case. A couple of thick grade 8 washers between the crossmember and the frame rails is sufficient (so long as you have enough of the studs to get the nut on).
Bad tires can wobble/vibe at speed, so if it's one wheel, swap the tires around to isolate.
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