What tool to use for replacing brakes?
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
What tool to use for replacing brakes?
I just got my rotors and pads. Going to do them myself. I just don't know what tool to use for holding the caliper piston? I saw a DIY using some HUGE channel locks, but I couldn't find them at the stores today.
Something I can order maybe online? Or any quick ideas? Need them done ASAP!
Thanks CF!
Something I can order maybe online? Or any quick ideas? Need them done ASAP!
Thanks CF!
#3
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#5
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
They sell a tool at sears that is made for pushing u cal. back. You use one pad and this tool and perfect. Click on that. Most Sears have them in stock
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...8&blockType=G8
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...8&blockType=G8
#7
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while the caliper is still on the rotor, use a large flathead screwdriver or small pry bar and insert it in through the caliper and push between the pad and rotor. you can push the piston back far enough to easily slide the caliper back on with new pads.
i do this all the time. no need to buy any tools you may not need.
otherwise, just go to harborfreight to buy the cheap c clamps for a couple dollars.
i do this all the time. no need to buy any tools you may not need.
otherwise, just go to harborfreight to buy the cheap c clamps for a couple dollars.
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#8
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2002 WJ 4.0
make sure you open the bleeder and push the fluid out there and not back to the master. i have seen master cylinder and abs module ruined by doing this. while you're at sear ears see if you can find a hose pinching tool. they are designed so that you can pinch the line without damaging it. clamp the line, open the bleeder and push the piston back in. i find it easier to do while the caliper is still mounted and use a screwdriver between the rotor and pad. also, it helps to put a short piece of vacuum line on the bleeder to keep from making too much of a mess.
zedpapa
zedpapa
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Year: 1996
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DO Not pry the piston with a screw driver against the rotor. You will damage the rotor and the piston. Brake rotors are very soft metal and warp and crack easilly and some pistons are plastic. Use a 6-8" Clamp or a disc brake press tool. If you open the bleeder as suggested above, fine, but you will need to bleed all 4 brakes when your are done.
#10
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Year: 2001
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I am not discounting anything anyone else has said because I have never tried to pry the caliper piston back but I do not trust my own ability to keep a steady hand for that. What I do know that works is using a C clamp and the one of the old brake pads to over the piston to push it back.
#11
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Year: 1989
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Engine: 2002 WJ 4.0
if you are replacing the rotor, it doesn't matter. and if have to pry hard enough to bend a rotor, something is wrong. i never lean on them, just constant pressure. just make sure you put the prybar/screwdriver in between the rotor and pad and not between the pad and piston. since i always put a old piece of vacuum line on the bleeder, i don't need to bleed the wheels i am not working on. while a brake fluid flush is a good idea at each brake service, its not necessary.
zedpapa
zedpapa
#13
i just simply use a C-clamp and i dont open any bleeders, or the master cylinder cap either..i just keep the old pad in the caliper and use that to spread the pressure out and start cranking it down until theres enough room to put the pads and and get the pads around the rotor
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