I just got my rotors and pads. Going to do them myself. I just don't know what tool to use for holding the caliper piston? I saw a DIY using some HUGE channel locks, but I couldn't find them at the stores today.

Something I can order maybe online? Or any quick ideas? Need them done ASAP!

Thanks CF!

 

big c-clamps

 

How big? I saw like 4 sizes today at Sears, almost grabbed some $15 ones, but I wanted to make sure it was big enough, but not too big, or does it matter if they are too big?

 

6" at leaste

 

They sell a tool at sears that is made for pushing u cal. back. You use one pad and this tool and perfect. Click on that. Most Sears have them in stock

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...8&blockType=G8

 

a big c-clamp and a block of wood works real good too..

 

while the caliper is still on the rotor, use a large flathead screwdriver or small pry bar and insert it in through the caliper and push between the pad and rotor. you can push the piston back far enough to easily slide the caliper back on with new pads.
i do this all the time. no need to buy any tools you may not need.

otherwise, just go to harborfreight to buy the cheap c clamps for a couple dollars.

 

make sure you open the bleeder and push the fluid out there and not back to the master. i have seen master cylinder and abs module ruined by doing this. while you're at sear ears see if you can find a hose pinching tool. they are designed so that you can pinch the line without damaging it. clamp the line, open the bleeder and push the piston back in. i find it easier to do while the caliper is still mounted and use a screwdriver between the rotor and pad. also, it helps to put a short piece of vacuum line on the bleeder to keep from making too much of a mess.

zedpapa

 

DO Not pry the piston with a screw driver against the rotor. You will damage the rotor and the piston. Brake rotors are very soft metal and warp and crack easilly and some pistons are plastic. Use a 6-8" Clamp or a disc brake press tool. If you open the bleeder as suggested above, fine, but you will need to bleed all 4 brakes when your are done.

 

I am not discounting anything anyone else has said because I have never tried to pry the caliper piston back but I do not trust my own ability to keep a steady hand for that. What I do know that works is using a C clamp and the one of the old brake pads to over the piston to push it back.

 

if you are replacing the rotor, it doesn't matter. and if have to pry hard enough to bend a rotor, something is wrong. i never lean on them, just constant pressure. just make sure you put the prybar/screwdriver in between the rotor and pad and not between the pad and piston. since i always put a old piece of vacuum line on the bleeder, i don't need to bleed the wheels i am not working on. while a brake fluid flush is a good idea at each brake service, its not necessary.

zedpapa

 

I've always used a 10" C-clamp, Slowly turning it in. So I can bleed them at the same time. Never had a problem with this method.

 

i just simply use a C-clamp and i dont open any bleeders, or the master cylinder cap either..i just keep the old pad in the caliper and use that to spread the pressure out and start cranking it down until theres enough room to put the pads and and get the pads around the rotor