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Picked up the oil pan from having the skid plate welded onto it, welded the almost alloy kit on the axleshafts, ordered a rebuild kit for the D30, tore the D30 down, and ordered a driveshaft for my Comanche. Expensive, but productive day.
rear passenger was locked so replaced caliper no change. replaced line.... drove today now front is trying to lock up on driver side and rear is still locking after 15 mind please message me im new here thank you all
Picked up the oil pan from having the skid plate welded onto it, welded the almost alloy kit on the axleshafts, ordered a rebuild kit for the D30, tore the D30 down, and ordered a driveshaft for my Comanche. Expensive, but productive day.
MJ has bad driveshaft vibration from a 30 year old rubber isolator falling apart. Cherokee had bad pinion bearings so I figured I'd just do a full rebuild and then I need to figure out the Cherokee driveshaft vibration issues. I'm getting tired of dealing with these things. I'll be happy when they both run and drive and I don't have to work on them every day
MJ has bad driveshaft vibration from a 30 year old rubber isolator falling apart. Cherokee had bad pinion bearings so I figured I'd just do a full rebuild and then I need to figure out the Cherokee driveshaft vibration issues. I'm getting tired of dealing with these things. I'll be happy when they both run and drive and I don't have to work on them every day
Ahh got it. That day will happen when you sell them both haha....
Picked up the bearing kit for the D30 and got the front axle back together
(Yes I know it's a big mess) so the front axle is ready. Also, picked up the motor and 5 of the 6 pistons from the machine shop. There was an incident with one of them so he said he'd have it for me tomorrow. Plan to get most of that put together tonight after dinner.
Used JB Weld to seal a small crack in the radiator at the upper hose connection, and located a leak in the power steering pressure hose running above the fan.
So I figured I let the bedlined tail light guards cure long enough.
Put them back on.
Awhile back Kmart, I think, was blowing this out at something like $2 a can. So I figured I would
grab it and maybe it will come in handy for something.
So I decided to try it on this small leak I have developed. I thought I might have gotten it the first time but noooo.
The first time I used that 3M RTV that comes in the strips in the box. Decided to try the Rustoleum out.
Using my air hose I think I figured out where the small section I missed is. Right around the plate under that bolt.
I put the motor in, broke the cam in and took it for a test drive. Not as impressed with the power as I thought I would be, oh well. It runs and drives now
Took the doggo for a drive to the local dog park. He's not a fan of getting into vehicles but after a couple minutes he was sleeping on his blanket in the back.
Changed rear window and door struts also hood struts on 2004 Grand Cherokee. Applied Seafoam to throttle body and gas tank. Changes out pvc and ccv on valves with hoses on 4.0 six.
Spent a while on the computer trying to figure out which oil filter would work on my XJ without the adapter and I came up with 3. Fram PH3614, Purolater L10241, and Wix 51348. I hate Fram, so that's out.
Spent a while on the computer trying to figure out which oil filter would work on my XJ without the adapter and I came up with 3. Fram PH3614, Purolater L10241, and Wix 51348. I hate Fram, so that's out.
I like the BOSCH filter for my 6, but Mopar and any filter that has a strong anti-siphon valve should work. I get mine on Amazon.
Spent a while on the computer trying to figure out which oil filter would work on my XJ without the adapter and I came up with 3. Fram PH3614, Purolater L10241, and Wix 51348. I hate Fram, so that's out.
Unless you plan to remote mount the filter I'd keep the adapter. You can fit a much larger (wix 51515 is my preference) filter and if your Cherokee has bad motor mounts the filter will get crushed and/or punctured.