ClintBo45

It has been a while since my last thread but I was walking the local yard looking for a replacement cluster gage for my rig. It came equiped with the dummy lights. I found the what I needed in that department, (actual gages) BUT!, I am also planning on upgrading my rear axles. There were many exploders out there a couple of eddie bower editions that I think may have the 8.8 or do they all come with it? Also I found an 88 waggy with the Dana 44, and also an 87 cherokee loredo that I am thinking has the 44 but not sure, it did have the drain plug on the diff cover. I don't plan swapping the front just doing the super 30 uprade, my rig use will be something in the neighborhood of like 30% off-road and 70% daily driver. I am running 33's though and would like a good yard axle to spiff up and replace the Dana 35. Any and all info would be great!

caged

go for the 44

nismo5

this might help you with the xj 44 dilema

XJs-R-us

DEFINITELY go for the cherokee's 44!!! Since it will be a straight swap. ...If in fact, it is a D44...
Thats the only reason, why Ide go for that one.

ClintBo45

Thanks for the pics of the diff covers that's a big help. What about 8.8 vs the 44 when it comes to horsepower? I am currently planning on stroking my I6. I have a ton of web info saved on stroked builds and does and don'ts, I plan on going .60 over and installing a complete roller kit to make a rolled 4.7. I haven't seen anyone do the roller kit (besides Mopar) and between studies and bugging the heck out of CliffordPerformance I am confident I can achieve my goal but again on the axles, does it matter between the two as far as strength? I am running 33's but want to run 35's after overkill on the engine.

rweaver138

the 8.8 is stronger in the end, but it takes some modifications to go under a cherokee. the 44 is bolt in and should be fine with 35's, depending on how you drive.

ClintBo45

Direct bolt in swap is great but I'm not afraid to do some welding, I would like to rotate the axle up a little anyway to straighten out the drive angle. I dropped the tranny and transfere case last night to clean up and replace some clutch components and replace a leaky rear main seal FINALY!

On the t-case I am going to open it up and shave down the top shift fork so that my case halfs will close without having to move my shift plate (this happened after sye was installed and shift fork rod was trimmed) Left everything unhooked and drive shaft off temporarily because I had to drive it. Rain and motorcycles don't mix! Once that is done and rear cv drive shaft is lengthened I'll be back in 4x4 bidness!

caged

i beg to differ on the 8.8 being stronger than the 44. especially in stock form.

ClintBo45

Would it be ridiculous to put dodge axles of 60 and 70 on a jeep while keeping the i6? There will be a motor rebuild or maybe replacement but the i6 will remain either way, looking to go stroker.

caged

dodge axles will work, any axle will if you feel like welding on the correct perches and coil buckets.
but dodge axles have the vacuum disconnect system, just like some early jeep axles, which can be a pita.
most go for full size ford axles, they are drivers side drop and no vac disconnect.

ClintBo45

What about electric lockers? I know that equals dinero but it's no longer my DD. I was able to purchase my fathers truck and now the gloves are off. I am teaching myself to weld with a mig/flux welder for body work but I do plan on getting an arc for the heavy duty stuff. Watched my dad a lot before he passed and it's all starting to come back slowly but surely. Thanks for taking the time to respond to my post. I am learning as I go on some things and others is just common sense.