Folks:

I have a newly obtained 96 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4. Almost all stock except for some mild alum wheels with 235/75/15 tires. It has 179K miles and seems to run fine.

Since I have no idea what's been done in the way of maintenance, I'd like to get suggestions on what to look for, change, modify, etc. to ensure another 179K miles. Has 4.0 inline 6 engine and auto tranny.

What I've done so far:

Changed oil (10W40)
Changed oil filter (regular Fram)
Changed air filter (regular Fram)
Replaced rear brakes (Duralast from Autozone)
Replaced all wiper blades
Replaced rear lift supports
Replaced tag lamp
Rotated tires

Battery (unk brand) has an 05/08 sticker that I assume indicates year purchased or made. The (now) rear tires had terrible chunking on the inside tire tread telling me the alignment is much needed, so that's on my agenda for Thursday, plus rebalancing all tires. It has Primewell AS100 tires on it which I found are discontinued. I don't like them but since the (now) front tires are almost new,...I will soon replace the rears with something similar. Nothing high dollar until it's time to replace all four at which time, I'll research. I do not plan to install a lift kit for at least a year. Maybe not ever since this vehicle was bought for my daughter to drive.

Only other "plan" is to buy a key fob. It has keyless but that wasn't included with the purchase. I found a site where I can get a "non-factory" for $80. I know the factory entry system isn't the best but not looking at spending that money yet, until any maintenance issues are complete. What I don't know is if I can program the new fob from scratch as I do not have another fob.

So,...I'd like to ask the seasoned folks here what really should be done or checked. Later will come the custom stuff. Just want to make it dependable for the daughter right now.

Thanks,

 

Tranny flush. T case and differentials flush. All new tie rod ends. Ball joints. List goes on...

 

1) Get rid of the Fram oil filter (Napa Gold, Wix, Mobil 1, Mopar or Motorcraft are acceptable) Fram's have been shown to be very harmful to these engines.
2) Grease anywhere you can find a grease zerk (steering rack, u joints etc)
3) If a tune up is necessary use Champion Copper Truck Plugs (don't put in fancy plugs, they typically don't do any good in these engines) and wires.
4) Check the fluid level in the transfer case and change if necessary. It takes regular Dex/Merc ATF.
5) Check the gear oil level in the differentials (screw plug on front axle, rubber plug on rear axle) top off or change if needed.

Sounds like you had a good basic start on things too look at and really what I've listed should take a couple of hours tops to check since there's a good chance the t-case and differentials are fine.

I'm far from an expert on the keyless entry systems but IIRC the fobs have to be programmed by a dealer but don't take that as gospel.

Congrats on your Jeep purchase and welcome to the forum!

 

Well,...just as I start to tackle the "norm",...the engine sort of "spit" at me three times on the Interstate. It was like a misfire. Then today, the engine just died while normal driving. I got to side of the road and it would not start. Lights, and all electricals would work fine, no clicking such as a dying battery. The regular idiot lights would come on as normal in trying to start. Under the hood at the fuse box, all the relays would lightly click telling me it's getting power. It was almost like there was a switch that had turn something off. I was able to start the car by having the ignition on and a screwdriver to the starter. Fortunately within 1/2 mile home, but it "spit" again but kept running. I can start it multiple times now in the garage.

Could this be a failing fuel pump ($80) or a starter solenoid(sp)? (with starter $60) I've got to find out for sure before I can trust it with my daughter on the road.

Note: when running, it seems to run fine with hard or soft pedal pressure. Runs like nothing is wrong,...then bam.

 

Wouldn't be a starter solenoid if its dying while running.

Look into testing and diagnosing the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Throttle Position Sensor. Both could be involved in what you are describing iirc.

 

I'll chime in with something that I do know.

If I remember correctly, the 96 has the infrared sensor located right where a center console would be (Unless yours has a console, in which case it is the black thingmajig poking out of it)

Now, programming these key fobs are incredibly easy!

TRANSMITTER PROGRAMMING PROCEDURE
(1) Open the driver’s door of the vehicle. Leave it
open through the programming procedure.
(2) Move the mechanical door lock lever to the
LOCK position.
(3) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
(4) Within 20 seconds, aim a transmitter at the
keyless entry module receiver dome and press the
LOCK button for at least 5 seconds. Once the module
accepts the programming code, the driver’s door will
unlock.
(5) Once the first transmitter has been programmed,
additional transmitters (up to 4) may be
programmed into the module. Within 20 seconds of
the previous transmitter programming, move the mechanical
door lock lever to the LOCK position. Aim
another transmitter at the receiver dome and press
the LOCK button for at least 5 seconds. The door
lock will cycle again.
(6) To lock the programmed codes into the module,
the ignition switch must be turned OFF and back
ON within 20 seconds after programming the last
transmitter’s code. At that time, all previous codes
are erased from the module.


The most important thing, however, is getting the right keyless entry fob for your year. It should look like the bottom two here (All of these should work though). You should look for a grand cherokee or regular cherokee fob from about 93ish to 96.

http://www.keylessride.com/order/quo...&frid=92CE1C2A

If you need any more info I'd be glad to help. Shoot me a PM

 

Thanks to both,....the more I research posts the more I'm thinkin CPS or TPS. Both seem to be a pain to replace, especially when it's cold outside.

and....with the key fob,...that's the one I saw (the upper one) that was cheap and states will work. I just didn't know if you had to have a working fob to program. Looks like you don't.

 

The CPS and TPS are fairly easy to do, although im pretty sure that the TPS needs a torx bit to take it off of the throttle body, other then that they are a sinch.