Should I swap axles?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 66
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From: Olmsted Township
Year: 91 Limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Currently have a D35 rear. I've read on other threads that they're prone to failure. Should I buy a c8.25, upgrade and install? This heep is currently my dd and eventually it'll be a toy. And it'll be a budget build, wouldn't be done soon. All advice/input will be put in consideration. Thanks in advance!
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,420
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From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Really depends on what you plan to do with it. Any axle can break and the D35 has that reputation mostly because it's used beyond it's means. If you plan on running 31-32" tires and going to a hunting camp or running logging roads and trails it'll be fine but anything more and it's pushing it. If you swap in a 8.25 make sure it's the 97 and later 29 spline version otherwise it's not really much of an upgrade.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 66
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From: Olmsted Township
Year: 91 Limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
It's lifted 3" and currently has 32" km2's. I got the jeep from destination xj (cf member) he's wheeled it with no problems. How can you tell what the spline count is w/o disassembly?
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Only way you can assume spline count is if you KNOW what year it is. Otherwise you must take it apart and count. 96 was a transition year so disassembly is mandatory.
Sounds like you're just on the brink of "needing" a C8.25. Some will argue that you don't need it until you break it lol, but with 32s if you're rough I'd just go for it.
Sounds like you're just on the brink of "needing" a C8.25. Some will argue that you don't need it until you break it lol, but with 32s if you're rough I'd just go for it.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 274
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From: Portland, Or
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The "Run it until it breaks and then upgrade" never made sense to me, with my luck Id break it on the side of a mountain 100 miles from home. Better to be too strong and not need it IMHO.
I wheel my XJ hard on 33s with a lincoln locked D35 rear. And its my daily driver. I haven't had any problems at all from it, and I'm going to 35's very soon. However, I feel a little better knowing I don't have a c clip 35, so if I break a shaft, my tires will stay on the Jeep, and I still carry a spare axle shaft all the time, just in case.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 66
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From: Olmsted Township
Year: 91 Limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I know ill eventually break stuff, I've blow out two Chevy truck rear ends. Not wanting to do that lol. I just checked pull apart and I can get a rear axle for $90-110. They have a few post 96 xj's. I don't want to spend the money on a locker and break something when I can work on building an axle. Wish I didn't have to budget build/ repair stuff!
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I snapped my D35 on 31's in my wrangler a couple years back. Sucked really bad. Had to drive down a creek to get out & the axle kept walkin out.
I purchased a C8.25 for $100 & have been rebuilding it over the last year. I'd say, pick up an axle, tear it down & rebuild it as it sounds like you don't need it right away.
I'm running 33's on my D35 now and gotta be really careful with the skinny pedal. Don't wanna go through that snapped axle nightmare ever again. Cost me a lit of money in the long run. Upgrade before you break it is my opinion.
I purchased a C8.25 for $100 & have been rebuilding it over the last year. I'd say, pick up an axle, tear it down & rebuild it as it sounds like you don't need it right away.
I'm running 33's on my D35 now and gotta be really careful with the skinny pedal. Don't wanna go through that snapped axle nightmare ever again. Cost me a lit of money in the long run. Upgrade before you break it is my opinion.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 372
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I know ill eventually break stuff, I've blow out two Chevy truck rear ends. Not wanting to do that lol. I just checked pull apart and I can get a rear axle for $90-110. They have a few post 96 xj's. I don't want to spend the money on a locker and break something when I can work on building an axle. Wish I didn't have to budget build/ repair stuff!
If you find a 97 up 8.25 in the jy, get it if it's cheap. It is a pretty significant upgrade over the 35 IMO.
Nobody has suggested you look for a Ford 8.8 yet. I'm surprised. Strength wise the 8.8 is superior to the 8.25 plus it will have disk brakes if you get the right years.
Nobody has suggested you look for a Ford 8.8 yet. I'm surprised. Strength wise the 8.8 is superior to the 8.25 plus it will have disk brakes if you get the right years.
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Over here...
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.8
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,250
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From: California
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I did a couple moderate difficulty runs with my original D35 (with factory posi whatever it's called. Is it trakloc?) on 33's but I already heard about D35 being weak so I pretty much babied it. Interesting the factory posi worked amazingly well. If I was just building a trail, or camping rig I would have left it in.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,420
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From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Make sure you get the drive shaft as well because they are different lengths and your D35 version will be a bit too long. Also something to consider, if you have inspections where you live swapping will make your ABS light come on since the 8.25 doesn't work with it and 90% chance your D35 does.


