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Hey all. With the warmer months coming, I'm preparing to fix some rust spots and while I'm at it, possibly tackle this white-mess occurring over my paint. Have been so focused on repairs to keep my XJ running I've been neglecting its curb appeal. I've been reading a lot of conflicting information regarding oxidation and clear coat failure and before I decide on a plan of attack I need to know what I'm dealing with. Based on the photos am I dealing with oxidation or a clear coat failure? Any help is appreciated!
my clearcoat on the hood blistered,bubbled. paint under was ok. i sanded,used body putty to fill rough spots,primed,painted with cheap rattle can...looks TERRIBLE,,,UP CLOSE . across the street looks fine...
some day ill sand again,worst is streaks from rattle can "dot" pattern.
The clear coat is failing, most likely due to UV damage and could have started off as oxidation. After years of sun exposure with no protection the clear dries/flakes.
Oxidation is usually a condition before the clear starts to flake, just a hazy/milky clear.
No real way to "re-clear" and have it look half way decent. Only proper way to fix it is sanding it down and re-spraying base and clear.
Well I got excited and tried a little something...not sure if I got lucky, and not sure if this will work on the bigger areas. I wet sanded and then applied a bit of rubbing compound..has anyone tried this on bigger areas?
Since this will be a slow project (going to go little by little) should I clear coat the areas that are done to protect them? Or just put a heavy wax on them?
Since this will be a slow project (going to go little by little) should I clear coat the areas that are done to protect them? Or just put a heavy wax on them?
Clear coating would be best. Base coats aren't made to be subjected to the elements, and will let moisture get to the steel underneath similar to a primer. You can get away with using a rattle can for the clear. Practice on something else, but you can get a nice look using a rattle can. The trick is to make it thick enough to shine but not run, and practice makes perfect.
Clear coating would be best. Base coats aren't made to be subjected to the elements, and will let moisture get to the steel underneath similar to a primer. You can get away with using a rattle can for the clear. Practice on something else, but you can get a nice look using a rattle can. The trick is to make it thick enough to shine but not run, and practice makes perfect.
Thanks!! I will pick some up today! Happy Friday yall!
Just FYI, I've never had good adhesion with the single stage rattle-can clear coat, it always flakes up on me.
I was thinking of attempting the same, did a test spot and it came out pretty good. Local guy will re-clear my hood for $50 if I prep it, and drop it off so he can do it whenever he is spraying an entire car.
Still haven't taken him up on that offer though, other things keep taking priority
Just FYI, I've never had good adhesion with the single stage rattle-can clear coat, it always flakes up on me.
I was thinking of attempting the same, did a test spot and it came out pretty good. Local guy will re-clear my hood for $50 if I prep it, and drop it off so he can do it whenever he is spraying an entire car.
Still haven't taken him up on that offer though, other things keep taking priority
Good to know! And I hear you about the "other things"
I was all ready to attempt a clear coat and now need a new radiator. If it ain't one thing with this Jeep...
Hit up a few painters in the area and see if they would be willing. Half the time they end up dumping the excess clear when spraying an entire car and having some excess in the gun when they are finished
Well I got excited and tried a little something...not sure if I got lucky, and not sure if this will work on the bigger areas. I wet sanded and then applied a bit of rubbing compound..has anyone tried this on bigger areas?
How is it looking 3 years later? I have the same issue with mine.
You revived an old thread.... but to answer your question.... I seriously doubt it would hold up. What was done would only be a temporary fix to make it look better in the short term. For the damage that is there, there's really no magic formula shortcut... you can either minimise the issue short term on the cheap... or fork out a little and fix it the right way and the latter method WILL last.
Like it was mentioned.... the base (colour) coat on cars is not formulated to be exposed to the elements on its own. The clear coat is what protects it. If that is physically gone... well... you don't need a calculator to do the math. lol
Last edited by RocketMouse; 11-18-2020 at 03:25 PM.
04-13-2017, 03:00 PM
Oxidation or clear coat failure??
Happy Friday yall!
