Oil in the air filter !!!
04-21-2014, 07:05 AM
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Sounds like a clogged CCV system. Since you're doing those, might as well make sure you don't clog the new stuff up too.
Change your oil with whatever kind if oil and filter you want and let it run for 5 minutes. Then drain the oil, pull the valve cover and oil pan. Clean both of those real well and replace the CCV ports and tubes that are on the valve cover. Clean out all the crud around your lifters, springs, and rods. Pull each rod one at a time and clean them out putting them back in the exact way they were before pulling them (that's why you do it one at a time). Once it's all cleaned up (use non-chlorinated brake cleaner) put everything everything back together with new gaskets and either a WIX or NAPA Gold oil filter for a '79 Ford F100 with a 302. Use Rotella T5 or T6 as your oil from now on. Put in a quality air filter and you should be good to go.
Change your oil with whatever kind if oil and filter you want and let it run for 5 minutes. Then drain the oil, pull the valve cover and oil pan. Clean both of those real well and replace the CCV ports and tubes that are on the valve cover. Clean out all the crud around your lifters, springs, and rods. Pull each rod one at a time and clean them out putting them back in the exact way they were before pulling them (that's why you do it one at a time). Once it's all cleaned up (use non-chlorinated brake cleaner) put everything everything back together with new gaskets and either a WIX or NAPA Gold oil filter for a '79 Ford F100 with a 302. Use Rotella T5 or T6 as your oil from now on. Put in a quality air filter and you should be good to go.
Last edited by no rdplz; 04-21-2014 at 01:35 PM.
04-21-2014, 11:12 AM
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Sounds like a clogged CCV system. Since you're doing those, might as well make sure you don't clog the new stuff up too. Change your oil with whatever kind if oil and filter you want and let it run for 5 minutes. Then drain the oil, pull the valve cover and oil pan. Clean both of those real well and replace the CCV ports and tubes that are on the valve cover. Clean out all the crud around your lifters, springs, and rods. Pull each rod one at a time and clean them out putting them back in the exact way they were before pulling them (that's why you do it one at a time). Once it's all cleaned up put everything everything back together with new gaskets and either a WIX or NAPA Gold oil filter for a '79 Ford F100 with a 302. Use Rotella T5 or T6 as your oil from now on. Put in a quality air filter and you should e good to go.
04-21-2014, 11:36 AM
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Sounds like a clogged CCV system. Since you're doing those, might as well make sure you don't clog the new stuff up too.
Change your oil with whatever kind if oil and filter you want and let it run for 5 minutes. Then drain the oil, pull the valve cover and oil pan. Clean both of those real well and replace the CCV ports and tubes that are on the valve cover. Clean out all the crud around your lifters, springs, and rods. Pull each rod one at a time and clean them out putting them back in the exact way they were before pulling them (that's why you do it one at a time). Once it's all cleaned up put everything everything back together with new gaskets and either a WIX or NAPA Gold oil filter for a '79 Ford F100 with a 302. Use Rotella T5 or T6 as your oil from now on. Put in a quality air filter and you should e good to go.
Change your oil with whatever kind if oil and filter you want and let it run for 5 minutes. Then drain the oil, pull the valve cover and oil pan. Clean both of those real well and replace the CCV ports and tubes that are on the valve cover. Clean out all the crud around your lifters, springs, and rods. Pull each rod one at a time and clean them out putting them back in the exact way they were before pulling them (that's why you do it one at a time). Once it's all cleaned up put everything everything back together with new gaskets and either a WIX or NAPA Gold oil filter for a '79 Ford F100 with a 302. Use Rotella T5 or T6 as your oil from now on. Put in a quality air filter and you should e good to go.
But perhaps he may not be so mechanically inclined...
Perhaps 2 or 3 short OCI's with a quart of transmission fluid each time... Might clean it up enough? Ensuring breathers are replaced and lines are clear...
I guess it would just depend on how nasty it is in there
04-21-2014, 01:33 PM
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Best advice ever!
But perhaps he may not be so mechanically inclined...
Perhaps 2 or 3 short OCI's with a quart of transmission fluid each time... Might clean it up enough? Ensuring breathers are replaced and lines are clear...
I guess it would just depend on how nasty it is in there
But perhaps he may not be so mechanically inclined...
Perhaps 2 or 3 short OCI's with a quart of transmission fluid each time... Might clean it up enough? Ensuring breathers are replaced and lines are clear...
I guess it would just depend on how nasty it is in there
Like I said, if he just cleans out the sludge, pulls each push rod one at a time, blows any crud out of the rod port, cleans it all off with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, and then places it right back in how it was then he won't run into any issues. Literally takes 30 seconds to makes sure each rod is clean and unclogged. Valve and oil pan gaskets are easy to remove and clean and this will definitely help him keep it running better for longer.
Last edited by no rdplz; 04-21-2014 at 01:38 PM.
04-21-2014, 11:47 PM
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Sounds like a clogged CCV system. Since you're doing those, might as well make sure you don't clog the new stuff up too.
Change your oil with whatever kind if oil and filter you want and let it run for 5 minutes. Then drain the oil, pull the valve cover and oil pan. Clean both of those real well and replace the CCV ports and tubes that are on the valve cover. Clean out all the crud around your lifters, springs, and rods. Pull each rod one at a time and clean them out putting them back in the exact way they were before pulling them (that's why you do it one at a time). Once it's all cleaned up (use non-chlorinated brake cleaner) put everything everything back together with new gaskets and either a WIX or NAPA Gold oil filter for a '79 Ford F100 with a 302. Use Rotella T5 or T6 as your oil from now on. Put in a quality air filter and you should be good to go.
Change your oil with whatever kind if oil and filter you want and let it run for 5 minutes. Then drain the oil, pull the valve cover and oil pan. Clean both of those real well and replace the CCV ports and tubes that are on the valve cover. Clean out all the crud around your lifters, springs, and rods. Pull each rod one at a time and clean them out putting them back in the exact way they were before pulling them (that's why you do it one at a time). Once it's all cleaned up (use non-chlorinated brake cleaner) put everything everything back together with new gaskets and either a WIX or NAPA Gold oil filter for a '79 Ford F100 with a 302. Use Rotella T5 or T6 as your oil from now on. Put in a quality air filter and you should be good to go.
many many thanks to you ...
04-22-2014, 09:34 AM
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No problem. That's what this forum is here for. I get to do the same to mine here pretty soon but just as regular maintenance. Gotta love the 175k check up.
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04-23-2014, 01:39 PM
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I'm definitely gonna do this when I put on my new valve cover gasket this weekend. I was wondering though, I have a 92, and from what I can find the CCV (PCV as most places call it) elbow for the rear does not have the orifice in it. Is there supposed to be one on the earlier models? It seems like the same setup as the 93+. Am I missing something? I don't want to remove the pieces unless I have the correct new ones. Should I wait til I pull the valve cover and see what I'm working with?
Also can't seem to find the front one at all. Only finding the "rear" one listed anywhere.
Also can't seem to find the front one at all. Only finding the "rear" one listed anywhere.
04-23-2014, 08:41 PM
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I would actually recommend getting everything from the dealer. Spending $25 and knowing they're the right parts is worth it in my opinion. If a parts store doesn't realize these are in actuality called CCV ports then I don't want parts from them.
04-24-2014, 06:47 AM
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Man, some people pay lots of money for oil on their air filters! It adds HP sauce and Toques! 
The CCV elbows WILL break however you remove them. They sorta snap/plop in to the rubber grommet when you install them. Removal is pulling them straight up but the heat embrittles
Them to the point they usually shatter too. In addition to elbows, get the rubber grommets.
It would be very wise to change the valve cover gasket at the same time. Especially if it's leaky and your CCV stuff is original. Then you can deal with the shattering on a bench instead of cleaning bits of plastic out of the valve train.
The CCV elbows WILL break however you remove them. They sorta snap/plop in to the rubber grommet when you install them. Removal is pulling them straight up but the heat embrittles
Them to the point they usually shatter too. In addition to elbows, get the rubber grommets.
It would be very wise to change the valve cover gasket at the same time. Especially if it's leaky and your CCV stuff is original. Then you can deal with the shattering on a bench instead of cleaning bits of plastic out of the valve train.
Last edited by salad; 04-24-2014 at 06:56 AM.
04-24-2014, 09:43 AM
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Man, some people pay lots of money for oil on their air filters! It adds HP sauce and Toques!
The CCV elbows WILL break however you remove them. They sorta snap/plop in to the rubber grommet when you install them. Removal is pulling them straight up but the heat embrittles
Them to the point they usually shatter too. In addition to elbows, get the rubber grommets.
It would be very wise to change the valve cover gasket at the same time. Especially if it's leaky and your CCV stuff is original. Then you can deal with the shattering on a bench instead of cleaning bits of plastic out of the valve train.
The CCV elbows WILL break however you remove them. They sorta snap/plop in to the rubber grommet when you install them. Removal is pulling them straight up but the heat embrittles
Them to the point they usually shatter too. In addition to elbows, get the rubber grommets.
It would be very wise to change the valve cover gasket at the same time. Especially if it's leaky and your CCV stuff is original. Then you can deal with the shattering on a bench instead of cleaning bits of plastic out of the valve train.
04-24-2014, 03:59 PM
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Well I just called the dealer and ordered mine. 30 some dollars, should be in Sat. I'm not gonna mess with the old ones until I have the new ones in hand, but sounds like they got it right. I plan on cleaning the hoses instead of getting new ones. Any ideas? Soapy water, scrub and rinse?
04-24-2014, 04:13 PM
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Engine bay degreaser, blast 'em out. Soap is good but it really requires molestation to lift up crud. Mild solvent would be a better use of your time
