Jeepin Bug
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: New Mexico
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6
Jeepin Bug
So, as a new jeep enthusiast and a former pickup only guy, I believe I have caught the bug. I have caught myself lookin at jeep parts that apply to 4wd (have a 2wd xj in the driveway) and been watching a lot of wrenching videos along with a lot of wheelin videos. I have this grand idea of building a killer 4wd grand cherokee. Don't know where Im going with this but I guess Im just glad to find a community to share my dreams with. Now I gotta buy a 4wd Grand Cherokee 🤔
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 7,519
Likes: 1,628
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 327
Likes: 107
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 327
Likes: 107
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
I try not to quote other forums but Naxja and CF are fine with each other if I'm not mistaken. This is a nice write-up about the process.
Front/Rear driveshafts:
There are at least two different lengths of these, and two different styles.
Length: There is no difference between 2- and 4-door models. There is a difference of 1" between the manual and automatic driveshafts. There is also a difference depending on what rear axle the donor vehicle is equipped with. Make sure you get the right length, it is best to get the front and rear driveshaft from the donor vehicle, if not get driveshafts from a vehicle equipped with the same transmission, era of transfer case (early tail cone vs. late), and rear axle!
Front Axle:
Not much special here. Get a front axle with a ratio matching your rear axle. Older axles for the 231 transfer case are vacuum disconnect and can be actuated via a vacuum switch (search around on here), shimmed in place with washers, or actuated with a cable setup, newer axles and axles for the 242 transfer case are non-disconnect and don't require any extra work (that's the route i took!). Everything is interchangeable between the front 2wd "axle" and the real 4wd axle...spindles, rotors, calipers, everything.
Disconnect axles will always have the weaker 260x axle shaft u-joints, late model (I don't recall exactly when they started, but it's guaranteed with 97+) axles will have the stronger 297x u-joints (which are directly replaced by 760). Also all ABS equipped XJ's (ABS was an option from 1989 onward) will have the stronger u-joints, you can spot ABS from either the brake master cylinder (you'll see the solenoids and such nearby), the sensor wiring going to the caliper (no wiring with non-ABS), or the tone ring on the stub shaft (the small part of the axle shaft, the tone ring looks like a gear).
Linkage and handle:
I had at least 3 people tell me it had to be out of the same year, but i don't think it does. I installed '95 linkage in my '93. The only differences are between the auto and the manual--get the correct one for your application. The linkage is adjustable and will need to be adjusted once installed. It seems that around '95 the mount that goes on the
trans tunnel was updated with rubber bushings, so that's the one i chose. All the holes are already in position for the mount and the handle, but it pays to have a buddy on this part.
Adjustment: Once everything is installed, you'll need to adjust the linkage. Loosen the bolt located on the rod coming from the 4wd handle. While pushing forward on the bolt area, press backwards on the rod. This will force the handle "down" into the 2wd area and ensure that you have enough throw on the handle to make it into 4LO. Make sure to snug up the bolt.
Note: The shift gate for the transfer case shifter (the metal bracketry in the cab that has the stops for the ranges) differs between the 242 transfer case and the 231 (because the 242 has one extra range), get the correct one for your application.
Vacuum Setup:
The early 231 transfer case (and some cases before, my pre 1987 knowledge is spotty here) used a vacuum disconnect front axle for fuel economy purposes. This consists of a vacuum diaphragm on the passenger (long) side of the front axle that controls a shift fork, that fork moves a collar between the intermediate shaft and the final shaft.
The transfer case has a vacuum switch at the tail cone area of the case where the electric 4WD switch would be on a later 231. This switch would switch the vacuum depending on what range you were in, this would move the shift collar and also went to a vacuum operated switch for the 4WD indicator lamp.
I do not recommend using the OEM vacuum harness as their rubber connectors do not age gracefully (I have had to replace them in my Jeeps). If you are going to use a vacuum operated front axle disconnect lay your own vacuum lines, just make sure to keep them away from the hot exhaust.
Another option is to use any 231 and plugging the vacuum switch hole (or putting a later style electric switch in place) and manually controlling the front axle. This can be done in a few ways. One is to shim the shift fork in the 4WD position with washers. Another is a cable lock system. The most "graceful" way would be to use a vacuum operated switch, I recommend using the 4WD - 2WD switch from early model Cherokees, I forget the case this was for but it is a switch that goes in place of the coin holder in the early model consoles, you may have to grab the early model black console inlay to use this switch as they stopped making the coin tray removable in later Jeeps (if you have an earlier Jeep, at least up to 1989, you'll notice that the coin tray is held in by four screws on the underside, the switch is mounted with these four screws).
https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=954587
Here's some write-ups from this forum as well
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/2wd...ersion-234371/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/2wd...version-15987/
May not be possible on your XJ but snap its worth telling you since you've got the Bug to wrench now.
Front/Rear driveshafts:
There are at least two different lengths of these, and two different styles.
Length: There is no difference between 2- and 4-door models. There is a difference of 1" between the manual and automatic driveshafts. There is also a difference depending on what rear axle the donor vehicle is equipped with. Make sure you get the right length, it is best to get the front and rear driveshaft from the donor vehicle, if not get driveshafts from a vehicle equipped with the same transmission, era of transfer case (early tail cone vs. late), and rear axle!
Front Axle:
Not much special here. Get a front axle with a ratio matching your rear axle. Older axles for the 231 transfer case are vacuum disconnect and can be actuated via a vacuum switch (search around on here), shimmed in place with washers, or actuated with a cable setup, newer axles and axles for the 242 transfer case are non-disconnect and don't require any extra work (that's the route i took!). Everything is interchangeable between the front 2wd "axle" and the real 4wd axle...spindles, rotors, calipers, everything.
Disconnect axles will always have the weaker 260x axle shaft u-joints, late model (I don't recall exactly when they started, but it's guaranteed with 97+) axles will have the stronger 297x u-joints (which are directly replaced by 760). Also all ABS equipped XJ's (ABS was an option from 1989 onward) will have the stronger u-joints, you can spot ABS from either the brake master cylinder (you'll see the solenoids and such nearby), the sensor wiring going to the caliper (no wiring with non-ABS), or the tone ring on the stub shaft (the small part of the axle shaft, the tone ring looks like a gear).
Linkage and handle:
I had at least 3 people tell me it had to be out of the same year, but i don't think it does. I installed '95 linkage in my '93. The only differences are between the auto and the manual--get the correct one for your application. The linkage is adjustable and will need to be adjusted once installed. It seems that around '95 the mount that goes on the
trans tunnel was updated with rubber bushings, so that's the one i chose. All the holes are already in position for the mount and the handle, but it pays to have a buddy on this part.
Adjustment: Once everything is installed, you'll need to adjust the linkage. Loosen the bolt located on the rod coming from the 4wd handle. While pushing forward on the bolt area, press backwards on the rod. This will force the handle "down" into the 2wd area and ensure that you have enough throw on the handle to make it into 4LO. Make sure to snug up the bolt.
Note: The shift gate for the transfer case shifter (the metal bracketry in the cab that has the stops for the ranges) differs between the 242 transfer case and the 231 (because the 242 has one extra range), get the correct one for your application.
Vacuum Setup:
The early 231 transfer case (and some cases before, my pre 1987 knowledge is spotty here) used a vacuum disconnect front axle for fuel economy purposes. This consists of a vacuum diaphragm on the passenger (long) side of the front axle that controls a shift fork, that fork moves a collar between the intermediate shaft and the final shaft.
The transfer case has a vacuum switch at the tail cone area of the case where the electric 4WD switch would be on a later 231. This switch would switch the vacuum depending on what range you were in, this would move the shift collar and also went to a vacuum operated switch for the 4WD indicator lamp.
I do not recommend using the OEM vacuum harness as their rubber connectors do not age gracefully (I have had to replace them in my Jeeps). If you are going to use a vacuum operated front axle disconnect lay your own vacuum lines, just make sure to keep them away from the hot exhaust.
Another option is to use any 231 and plugging the vacuum switch hole (or putting a later style electric switch in place) and manually controlling the front axle. This can be done in a few ways. One is to shim the shift fork in the 4WD position with washers. Another is a cable lock system. The most "graceful" way would be to use a vacuum operated switch, I recommend using the 4WD - 2WD switch from early model Cherokees, I forget the case this was for but it is a switch that goes in place of the coin holder in the early model consoles, you may have to grab the early model black console inlay to use this switch as they stopped making the coin tray removable in later Jeeps (if you have an earlier Jeep, at least up to 1989, you'll notice that the coin tray is held in by four screws on the underside, the switch is mounted with these four screws).
https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=954587
Here's some write-ups from this forum as well
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/2wd...ersion-234371/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/2wd...version-15987/
May not be possible on your XJ but snap its worth telling you since you've got the Bug to wrench now.
Trending Topics
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 7,519
Likes: 1,628
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: New Mexico
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6
I try not to quote other forums but Naxja and CF are fine with each other if I'm not mistaken. This is a nice write-up about the process.
Front/Rear driveshafts:
There are at least two different lengths of these, and two different styles.
Length: There is no difference between 2- and 4-door models. There is a difference of 1" between the manual and automatic driveshafts. There is also a difference depending on what rear axle the donor vehicle is equipped with. Make sure you get the right length, it is best to get the front and rear driveshaft from the donor vehicle, if not get driveshafts from a vehicle equipped with the same transmission, era of transfer case (early tail cone vs. late), and rear axle!
Front Axle:
Not much special here. Get a front axle with a ratio matching your rear axle. Older axles for the 231 transfer case are vacuum disconnect and can be actuated via a vacuum switch (search around on here), shimmed in place with washers, or actuated with a cable setup, newer axles and axles for the 242 transfer case are non-disconnect and don't require any extra work (that's the route i took!). Everything is interchangeable between the front 2wd "axle" and the real 4wd axle...spindles, rotors, calipers, everything.
Disconnect axles will always have the weaker 260x axle shaft u-joints, late model (I don't recall exactly when they started, but it's guaranteed with 97+) axles will have the stronger 297x u-joints (which are directly replaced by 760). Also all ABS equipped XJ's (ABS was an option from 1989 onward) will have the stronger u-joints, you can spot ABS from either the brake master cylinder (you'll see the solenoids and such nearby), the sensor wiring going to the caliper (no wiring with non-ABS), or the tone ring on the stub shaft (the small part of the axle shaft, the tone ring looks like a gear).
Linkage and handle:
I had at least 3 people tell me it had to be out of the same year, but i don't think it does. I installed '95 linkage in my '93. The only differences are between the auto and the manual--get the correct one for your application. The linkage is adjustable and will need to be adjusted once installed. It seems that around '95 the mount that goes on the
trans tunnel was updated with rubber bushings, so that's the one i chose. All the holes are already in position for the mount and the handle, but it pays to have a buddy on this part.
Adjustment: Once everything is installed, you'll need to adjust the linkage. Loosen the bolt located on the rod coming from the 4wd handle. While pushing forward on the bolt area, press backwards on the rod. This will force the handle "down" into the 2wd area and ensure that you have enough throw on the handle to make it into 4LO. Make sure to snug up the bolt.
Note: The shift gate for the transfer case shifter (the metal bracketry in the cab that has the stops for the ranges) differs between the 242 transfer case and the 231 (because the 242 has one extra range), get the correct one for your application.
Vacuum Setup:
The early 231 transfer case (and some cases before, my pre 1987 knowledge is spotty here) used a vacuum disconnect front axle for fuel economy purposes. This consists of a vacuum diaphragm on the passenger (long) side of the front axle that controls a shift fork, that fork moves a collar between the intermediate shaft and the final shaft.
The transfer case has a vacuum switch at the tail cone area of the case where the electric 4WD switch would be on a later 231. This switch would switch the vacuum depending on what range you were in, this would move the shift collar and also went to a vacuum operated switch for the 4WD indicator lamp.
I do not recommend using the OEM vacuum harness as their rubber connectors do not age gracefully (I have had to replace them in my Jeeps). If you are going to use a vacuum operated front axle disconnect lay your own vacuum lines, just make sure to keep them away from the hot exhaust.
Another option is to use any 231 and plugging the vacuum switch hole (or putting a later style electric switch in place) and manually controlling the front axle. This can be done in a few ways. One is to shim the shift fork in the 4WD position with washers. Another is a cable lock system. The most "graceful" way would be to use a vacuum operated switch, I recommend using the 4WD - 2WD switch from early model Cherokees, I forget the case this was for but it is a switch that goes in place of the coin holder in the early model consoles, you may have to grab the early model black console inlay to use this switch as they stopped making the coin tray removable in later Jeeps (if you have an earlier Jeep, at least up to 1989, you'll notice that the coin tray is held in by four screws on the underside, the switch is mounted with these four screws).
https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=954587
Here's some write-ups from this forum as well
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/2wd...ersion-234371/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/2wd...version-15987/
May not be possible on your XJ but snap its worth telling you since you've got the Bug to wrench now.
Front/Rear driveshafts:
There are at least two different lengths of these, and two different styles.
Length: There is no difference between 2- and 4-door models. There is a difference of 1" between the manual and automatic driveshafts. There is also a difference depending on what rear axle the donor vehicle is equipped with. Make sure you get the right length, it is best to get the front and rear driveshaft from the donor vehicle, if not get driveshafts from a vehicle equipped with the same transmission, era of transfer case (early tail cone vs. late), and rear axle!
Front Axle:
Not much special here. Get a front axle with a ratio matching your rear axle. Older axles for the 231 transfer case are vacuum disconnect and can be actuated via a vacuum switch (search around on here), shimmed in place with washers, or actuated with a cable setup, newer axles and axles for the 242 transfer case are non-disconnect and don't require any extra work (that's the route i took!). Everything is interchangeable between the front 2wd "axle" and the real 4wd axle...spindles, rotors, calipers, everything.
Disconnect axles will always have the weaker 260x axle shaft u-joints, late model (I don't recall exactly when they started, but it's guaranteed with 97+) axles will have the stronger 297x u-joints (which are directly replaced by 760). Also all ABS equipped XJ's (ABS was an option from 1989 onward) will have the stronger u-joints, you can spot ABS from either the brake master cylinder (you'll see the solenoids and such nearby), the sensor wiring going to the caliper (no wiring with non-ABS), or the tone ring on the stub shaft (the small part of the axle shaft, the tone ring looks like a gear).
Linkage and handle:
I had at least 3 people tell me it had to be out of the same year, but i don't think it does. I installed '95 linkage in my '93. The only differences are between the auto and the manual--get the correct one for your application. The linkage is adjustable and will need to be adjusted once installed. It seems that around '95 the mount that goes on the
trans tunnel was updated with rubber bushings, so that's the one i chose. All the holes are already in position for the mount and the handle, but it pays to have a buddy on this part.
Adjustment: Once everything is installed, you'll need to adjust the linkage. Loosen the bolt located on the rod coming from the 4wd handle. While pushing forward on the bolt area, press backwards on the rod. This will force the handle "down" into the 2wd area and ensure that you have enough throw on the handle to make it into 4LO. Make sure to snug up the bolt.
Note: The shift gate for the transfer case shifter (the metal bracketry in the cab that has the stops for the ranges) differs between the 242 transfer case and the 231 (because the 242 has one extra range), get the correct one for your application.
Vacuum Setup:
The early 231 transfer case (and some cases before, my pre 1987 knowledge is spotty here) used a vacuum disconnect front axle for fuel economy purposes. This consists of a vacuum diaphragm on the passenger (long) side of the front axle that controls a shift fork, that fork moves a collar between the intermediate shaft and the final shaft.
The transfer case has a vacuum switch at the tail cone area of the case where the electric 4WD switch would be on a later 231. This switch would switch the vacuum depending on what range you were in, this would move the shift collar and also went to a vacuum operated switch for the 4WD indicator lamp.
I do not recommend using the OEM vacuum harness as their rubber connectors do not age gracefully (I have had to replace them in my Jeeps). If you are going to use a vacuum operated front axle disconnect lay your own vacuum lines, just make sure to keep them away from the hot exhaust.
Another option is to use any 231 and plugging the vacuum switch hole (or putting a later style electric switch in place) and manually controlling the front axle. This can be done in a few ways. One is to shim the shift fork in the 4WD position with washers. Another is a cable lock system. The most "graceful" way would be to use a vacuum operated switch, I recommend using the 4WD - 2WD switch from early model Cherokees, I forget the case this was for but it is a switch that goes in place of the coin holder in the early model consoles, you may have to grab the early model black console inlay to use this switch as they stopped making the coin tray removable in later Jeeps (if you have an earlier Jeep, at least up to 1989, you'll notice that the coin tray is held in by four screws on the underside, the switch is mounted with these four screws).
https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=954587
Here's some write-ups from this forum as well
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/2wd...ersion-234371/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/2wd...version-15987/
May not be possible on your XJ but snap its worth telling you since you've got the Bug to wrench now.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 2,215
Likes: 635
From: Hangover, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)