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Cage with an x design

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Old May 5, 2011 | 02:37 PM
  #16  
Green Machine 97's Avatar
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all i really plan on carrying in mine is a small three drawer craftsmen box with the basic tools. do you have any ideas on securing that in but still being able to easily pull it out
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Old May 5, 2011 | 04:22 PM
  #17  
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this is how the back of mine is set up. i got my 3 drawer tool box with basic wratchet socket and wrench set (with duck tape of course)

and the 2 buckets have recovery tools such as small shovel, tow straps, tow chain, large boots, and my cover-alls (for when i go mudding and dont want to get super dirty.

and then i have my high lift jack and a carpet (good traction if needed, and more comfy to lay on then dirt and rocks.) all held down by bungies. (there is stuff holding the things in the bucket down, but they are small and hard to see.) i have yet to loose anything or have anything move around too much.
Cage with an x design-tool-jeep.jpg
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Old May 6, 2011 | 12:10 AM
  #18  
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if anything get something similar to what cops and some utility vans have where they have the barrier between the cargo area, or back seat thats ment to keep something from entering the front
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Old May 6, 2011 | 04:22 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Green Machine 97
i like the idea of the amo boxes but the problem with welding them down is that if you need to take them out to the front or to another rig then you cant just take the box you have to take the individual tools to the rig. just a thought.

Like I said.. most of the ppl I wheel with are trail rigs only, and well built/prepped rigs so breakage is not common, and most of the time when it happens the rig is dragged off the trail cause fixing it on the trail is not really an option.


There is a company that makes hold down brackets for them that are easy to use.

Personally I wouldnt be strapping down a tool box with a bungee cord. Still can make it a projectile on the trail.
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Old May 6, 2011 | 09:49 PM
  #20  
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i agree compleatley about the bungies because it may hold it down but i dont think i would feel compleatley comfortable with only a bungie cord holding it in if the jeep gets tipped its not gunna hold it there untill ur buddys can get ya back on all fours.
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Old May 6, 2011 | 10:04 PM
  #21  
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most of us that go have well built rigs but s*** happens and its nice to have the parts to pull out a broken axel shaft to go three wheel drive out of the trail. no matter how well built you are its possible that somthing can go wrong.
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Old May 7, 2011 | 06:06 AM
  #22  
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I agree.. everything to pull a front shaft can be held in a tube sock.. in the glove box.

10 mm socket (brake calipers)
13 mm 12sided (hub bolts)
36mm socket (hub nut)
small c-clamp (brake caliper)
3/8 Ratchet
1/2 collapse breaker bar
LUg nu socket


You can ask anyone I wheel with that my crap does break.. but my rig is set up so that I only need minimal tools to fix my rig.. especially since I went full width axles.

SInce swapping out an axle on a full size axle is a lot of work... especially on the trail I just carry the parts to pull my drive flanges. I bassically carry a test light, a 1/2 wrench (pull driveshafts), and hose fix stuff. Not a lot of tools... no real need... most of the time my trailer is close enough
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Old May 7, 2011 | 10:33 AM
  #23  
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i agree that you dont need a ton of tools, but my jeep is also what i work out of. i use my tool box regularly and all of the tools in it.

and i dont yet do enough serious four wheeling to worry about rolling. ive put my jeep in some tippy spots and got my box to move a little, but i know i was far from rolling.
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Old May 9, 2011 | 03:48 PM
  #24  
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i want some ideas with securing my box for those tippy places cuz i do want my rig to be able to just drive to and from the trail with the tools for most simple jobs that could come across.
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Old May 9, 2011 | 08:46 PM
  #25  
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i use bungies. and ive done some tippy stuff. alot of ppl dont trust them but i have yet to have a problem.
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Old May 10, 2011 | 01:00 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 90XJkid
Is EWS a good choice for material? The price is interesting. Or is DOM or Molly the only way to go?
No, not really. It has a seam that tends to split open upon impacts.. Sometimes while bending it too.

.120 wall DOM would be sufficient. Chrome-Moly (4130) usually is tig welded.
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