Rumple

Hello,

I am new here. After many years of lusting after owning my own Jeep Cherokee I have finally decided to purchase one and would like to avoid getting taken advantage of by a seller or dealer who will quickly realize I know very little. So I thought I'd seek out help from the experts here to help with my ignorance.

I am a complete moron when it comes to anything car related, so other than skimming articles online, I really have no other resources an would very much appreciate some help on buying a used Cherokee, specifically which models to look at or avoid, which year, what I should expect to pay, as well as which options I would want (engine choice, Classic vs Sport).

Basically what I know I do want are Automatic transmission, 4 wheel capable. I will use it for a mix of city and highway driving. I am only interested in a Jeep Cherokee. I will not be doing any off-roading.

Again, this is my first post so if I screwed this up or missed similar posts on forum my apologies.

Thanks for the help.

Gee oh Dee

In your case any Cherokee will do, as long as it doesnt have a 2.5l 4 cyl. The 2000-2001 models sometimes have head cracking issues, but thats not the end of the world, just a bit pricey sometimes.

Check everything one would normally check when buying a used car. Check oil condition, check for leaks, check coolant condition, check for rust spots, check trans fluid, etc etc etc...

cmartin2112

I agree with Gee oh Dee. Check the normal stuff. Do you have somebody that could go with you that is mechanically inclined? Also dont jump on the first one you look at even if the price is right and everything looks great. You want to give youself choices and time to think. If you want take some pics of some that you looked at and post it here I'm sure some of us could help you out.

no rdplz

Just as a simple question, if you never plan to take it offroad, why do you need 4wd?
if you don't need it, honestly, keep it simple and find a 2wd model. There's less maintenance and it's simpler in design. However if you need 4wd (you get a lot of snow, etc), then you need to make sure you get the proper 4wd set up. XJ's came with 2 different set ups: part-time 4wd and full-time 4wd.
Part-time is the most common in XJ's and cannot be used on pavement. Full-time can be found in XJ's (though not as common), and can be used on both pavement and off-road. Easiest way to tell which set up an XJ is to look at the transfer case shift lever bezel (just to the left of the gear shift lever). For what you're describing as your needs, you need to find an XJ that has full-time 4wd.
part-time bezel:


full-time bezel (this is the one you want for what you've described):


Now it's on to particulars. First, the engine. I would highly recommend you find an XJ with the 4.0 straight 6. This will also give you only one automatic transmission choice - the AW4. Both the 4.0 and AW4 are very reliable and require only basic maintenance to last a long, long, time. This will also limit your choice of years: 1987-2001. '87-'90 XJ's have the RENIX 4.0. Some people don't care for the Chrysler/Renault set up, but these are still a great choice. '91-'96 XJ's have the High Output 4.0. This is simply a 4.0 that produced more power than the RENIX engine and used an OBD I set up. 97-01 had the same engine as the 90-96 years, but incorporated an OBD II set up, as well as some other small changes (intake manifold redesign in '99, coil packs in '00-'01, different head casting for '00-'01). Personally I would stick with a 91-99 simply for the power increase, the better head casting, and the lack of a coil pack set up.

For the design of the XJ, you have 2 options: '84-'96 or '97-'01. The first is harder-edged on the outside and more spartan on the inside, where as the latter has softer edges and a little nicer interior.
84-96
exterior:

interior:

The only real change the interior saw for 84-96 models was the steering wheel design.

97-01
exterior:

interior:


Another thing to look at is the rear axle. There are 4 possibilities: the Dana 35, the 27-spline 8.25, the 29-spline 8.25, and the Dana 44 (axle strength is weakest in the Dana35 and gets stronger through the Dana 44). The Dana 35 can be found in any 87-01 XJ this is a decent axle for everyday use. In 87-90 it was a non c-clip design. From '90-'01 it was a c-clip design that was used in both non-ABS equipped XJ's ('90-'96) as wella s ABS equipped models ('97-'01). The 27-spline 8.25 can be found in '91-'96 models without ABS. The 29-spline 8.25 can be found in '97-'01 models without ABS. The Dana 44 can only be found in some '87-'90 XJ's.
Personally, I would try to find an XJ with either of the 8.25's. The exterior styling you prefer will determine which spline count you get.

Different trim levels are really all about the little things - different seats, body colored moldings, little interior touches, etc., so really just find one you like.

Big thing when you go to look at any XJ is to make sure it's solid. Just like others have said, check for rust and make sure it's mechanically sound. Have a buddy go with you that's knowledgeable about cars in general, but if they know jeeps, even better. If you don't have someone you can take with you, ask for it to looked over by a trusted mechanic. x2 on looking at a few and comparing. Snaps some pics, gets some facts, post some more info on here and we'll do what we can to help.

Bustedback

Spend more time on this forum and will see what is trending and what to avoid. I happen to like the 91-96 model years, 96 being the best choice for the older body style. 97 to 01 had a slightly different body style and a completely different interior. 2000-01 had the weaker low pinion Dana 30 front axle and cylinder head issues. 84-86 had the crappy Chevy 2.8 v6 that was a guttless turd and leaked more oil that it could carry.

VTJeep

Seems like mechanics have been covered pretty well. I'd vote for a 97-99 with the 6 cyl. 4.0L engine, AW-4 transmission and NP-242 transfer case. SE, Sport or Classic are your trim levels- preference for me is the Sport model!

-Electronics are commonly finiky- check ALL switches. Try each door individually to make sure windows/locks work. The emergency flasher switch is a good one to check too.

-Feel carpets for moisture. Obviously check under floor mats

-Look underneath at the running boards for rust or any damage.

-IMHO, any garage worth it's weight will put your rig on a code reader and/or a lift to give it a thorough once over. It's nice having mechanics assess your mechanical stuff, ya know? Plus they can help determine a reasonable price for you.

-Post pics and info on anything you find and you'll get (more) good advice here! Good luck, friend.

Rumple

This is really helpful everyone, appreciate you taking the time to help me out. These are exactly the details what I was looking for. Also, per one if the earlier questions the reason I was going towards 4WD capable is that my winters tend to be be pretty rough - so thought it was good to consider that as an option.

Atmos

x2 on the 2wd model.
I had a 91 2wd five speed and got 20hwy 17city and it was only in decent condition
if I cleaned it up a bit I'm sure I could've gotten more
plenty of cargo room and they never pulled me over for not having chains because it's a jeep

my one piece of advice is get a 95-99 model only

check out year to year changes and reliability
1990-1996 http://consumerguideauto.howstuffwor...p-cherokee.htm
1997-2001 http://consumerguideauto.howstuffwor...p-cherokee.htm

Rumple

Hi Everyone,

Wanted to get your thoughts on the Cherokee linked below based on my comments above. It is a 1997 SE - seemed kind of high priced to me? The car fax records seem pretty complete and looks like it was well maintained though.

http://www.donedealmotors.com/newand...-MA-02021.aspx

Atmos

that one is pristine. if you're not going to wheel it then that's the kind you want
personally, I wouldnt want it because I'd be afraid to cut it up or dent it
but the price is just way too high. I mean he'll probably get that price from someone eventually..
but that one is worth $4,500 for me, tops. even with the low miles. xj's just arent worth that much
you can get a pretty nice 2003-2005 economy car for $8000

Rumple

Hello,

Reviving my old thread from last year - was delayed in my purchase due to some issues, but the search is back on! The above feedback and goals on my Jeep purchase remain the same, and I've started looking again. Essentially, I have been mainly looking through Cars.com, though the dealer prices always seem a lot higher than what I am expecting based on miles, KBB, etc. So while I've started again there, I also just started looking on Craigslist as well. This one I saw today and wanted some thoughts on - I realize its not much to go on given the link information, but per the seller it also has 129k, is a 2001 (which based on the earlier advice I received I am looking for 1995-1999, straight 6/4WD, automatic transmission), 4WD, no accidents. Anyway, I just wanted to get some feedback on this type of vehicle and get some expert advice on price, etc so I continue to learn as much as I can before making my eventual purchase. The other question I am torn on is how much to spend - like I said, my plan is to use this for local driving and in bad weather so with that in mind - what kind of target mileage should I be looking at? The low mileage (under 100k) seem hard to find or be pretty expensive - am I focusing too much on mileage as a factor? I realize this post is a bit scattered, So that being said - please critique the below:

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/3777046586.html

DieselD

Its not bad. But I bet there's is better. Are you looking for strictly a trail toy? Or more of a DD/weekend wheeler?

DieselD

Craigslist: 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport Classic

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/3786927010.html

I like this one. Needs a bit of work but price is excellent.

Rumple

Thanks for this - this is definitely more my speed. I am not planning to wheel it to answer you question above. Any idea what "exhaust work" would potentially run to have fixed?

DieselD

Just depends on how much is rusted busted or broken.

If the manifold and down pipe are good you'd need a cat converter, a muffler and a tail pipe. You can get performance parts from performance-curve.com for pretty cheap. Then have them installed at a local exhaust shop, people say for betweem $100-150. Or do the work yourself. I'm a DIYer.