Turbocube

I'm the guy from this thread [with pictures]: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/95...5/#post2506650

So I've had the XJ looked at by more well-trained eyes. Long story short, I cannot get it totaled because in my state (Florida) a totaled car is illegal to drive. So, either the insurance company pays for it, if things can be arranged so that they don't total it (which is a definite possibility) or I pay for it out of pocket, because my family cannot afford to lose the vehicle.

This is the most major thing that's wrong with it. A bent front right frame rail, I'm told. Here is a picture of that: http://imageshack.us/scaled/landing/837/vutv.jpg The one on the left side *looks* normal.

I'm told that basically the two options are to bend it back with a machine or cut it out and replace the section.

Any advice for handling this situation?

V8XJDavid

If it still runs and drives fine, what's the problem here? Does it pass state inspection if you have one? Does your insurance require you to fix it?

Turbocube

The steering alignment is off. When I'm driving in a straight line, the steering is 10 or 20 degrees off to the right. It doesn't "pull" meaning if I let go of the wheel the car continues on. But obviously I'd like to get that fixed, and I'd think it was caused by the accident because before the wheel was perfectly straight. Not to mention, the utility purpose of this Jeep is to pull a relatively large trailer. I'm no expert, but I wouldn't feel comfortable towing with a bent frame.

The insurance doesn't require me to fix it, but I want it fixed regardless, and I'd definitely rather have them fix it than me have to fix it.

Also curious about whether or not that bent rail being bent back is going to seriously harm the structural integrity and strength of the unibody, which I assume is yes, and how I'd go about mitigating that.

PocketsEmpty

What if you just remove the sway bar?

Turbocube

Only on one side, or on both? Wouldn't either of those be dangerous? This Jeep is driven mostly on the road. I'd hate to make a square vehicle with plenty of clearance even more prone to rolling over if I swerve for some reason.

dmill89

I wouldn't worry about that, where it is bent is a "crumple zone" which is supposed to be weak and bend to absorb the force of the accident. It is infront of any suspension/driveline mounts so as long as you can get the sway bar mount straight enough that it steers right you should be fine. All that part of the frame really does is hold the bumper and rad support on.

You can put on an off-road bumper with frame tie-ins if you want to reinforce this area (note: this will also minimize damage from any future "mishaps").

ck1

/\ this...you can pull off the damaged stuff and pay a frame or body shop pull the rail back out to square and like mentioned before a am bumper and the mounts will cover most of it..go to the bone yard and grab the parts needed to put it back normal..i wouldnt worry to much about a rail bent BEFORE the the front suspension too much...as mentioned it is designed to "crumple" there..again have the shop pull it out ...you dont have to pay them to make it pretty just pull it to straight...regarding your steering..MOST likely an alignment will fix that...
Cameron

p.s..keep the insurance OUT of it..I know cuz I am a claim manager for a large insurance co...they will total it and then it goes to a bone yard and one of us will buy the salvage or snake yer parts off of it

Turbocube

Thanks for the advice, guys. Few questions:

That sounds great, though I would have imagined doing that would send the force of a collision directly into the frame, bending the frame for sure. Or is the idea that the bumper would bend first and absorb the force?

It needs new tires anyways. Would it be wise to simply get the alignment done alongside purchasing new tires and install?

THANK YOU for this. My folks were thinking the same way (the insurance is in their name, Jeep belongs to my father who was/is planning to sell it to me) but its nice to have your confirmation as well.

Only problem is now, I've gotta pay for all the repairs myself. Not sure what a fair price for the Jeep would be, since its been in an accident, but it was me who was in the accident, so its a weird situation.

dmill89

It ties into a stronger part of the frame and spreads the forces over a larger area, plus the bumper itself is made of thicker plate, it also helps distribute the force more equally across both rails reducing the load on an individual rail and likelihood of damage. It also prevents your vehicle from absorbing as much of the impact and transfers the forces to the other vehicles in most multi-vehicle accidents. In a severe crash the frame will still bend but a crash of that magnitude would result in a bent frame and totaled vehicle anyway. There are few if any downsides to a stronger bumper, especially if you have to replace a damaged one anyway.

I'll second that, most insurance companies will total any 10+ year old vehicle (except high-priced exotics) with frame damage or air-bag deployment, often without even looking at it / estimating the cost of repairs.

It sucks that FL won't let you re-register/drive a previously totaled vehicle, here in PA you just have to repair it and get it inspected by a state certified shop and then you get a "rebuilt" title and can register/drive it like any other vehicle (it does hurt the value though, and most ins cos will only issue a liability policy on a rebuilt vehicle, not comprehensive or collision).

Turbocube

Ah, that makes sense. Yeah I'm going to go for the aftermarket bumper w/ the frame tie-in you mentioned. I bet it would be great protection from deer, to think of only one example.

One odd thing that has happened since the collision is that the interior light for the left blinker is always on when the interior lights are on. But, more interesting is that the left rear blinker blinks twice as fast as normal (as well as the interior light for it) but the left front blinker and the entire right side blinkers work as normal. Funny thing is, I like it so much I want them all the blink fast now.

PocketsEmpty

Well, if you're lifted, you might experience more "body roll", but I am still stock and I removed my sway bar not too long ago due to aged/worn links and the fact that it was grinding against my new bumper's big carrier bolts. I noticed a little more roll, but I have no regrets and am certainly not going to flip it on the road.

Good luck!

Turbocube

I'm stock as well and currently have no plans to lift but I've always read that its unsafe to remove the front sway bars especially. I love the idea of having more flex for free even though I don't plan to lift but although I do not drive like a maniac there have been plenty of occasions when I've had to dodge not only lousy Florida drivers but also people of questionable intelligence shooting across the road on bikes.

However, if it's really not too much of a safety issue, I'd be open to it.

ck1

i run disconnected alot..that said I do have stiffer then stock springs...it isint all that bad...I have very old cars as toys and driving this disconnected is safer then driving my 47 ford...as far sway...you do have to be careful..if you are going to leave it stock then you can still get disconnects and go farther off road...are there any trails or rocks in florida that you would need to disconnect?? just askin as I have never been there
Cameron

dmill89

The harness for the turn-signals/marker lights runs behind the grill (usually routed between the bumper and front cross member), it is likely pinched/shorted.

Turbocube

Well to be entirely honest I don't go off-road very often and when I do its a dirt road or some grass. And there aren't very many where I live in Florida. But the ride on my XJ is not by any means smooth and more flex would be welcome provided it wouldn't compromise my ability to suddenly change lanes without dying.

So... how would I go about shorting all of them?