Mostly I'm just wondering if mucking about with (apparently working) connections could cause a problem.


If it ain't broke don't fix it

 

Not likely unless you're a ham-fisted gorilla.

 

Still some work left to do. Need some ideas on how to repair the rust for sure.

Specs:
1995 Jeep Cherokee XJ, 2WD, AW4, C8.25, ALL STOCK.

Done:
Replaced Battery
Changed oil/filter - Delo HD 15w40/Puralator
Changed Transmission Fluid - Supertech Dex/Merc III
New Trans filter & pan gasket
Replaced all 3 shift solenoids
Replaced Throttle Position Sensor
Replaced Coolant Temp Sensor
Replaced Oil Pressure Switch
Cleaned throttle body
Adjusted Throttle TV cable
Painted exterior trim satin black
Painted wheels gloss black
Cleaned interior real good
New floor mats
New steering wheel cover
New liftgate struts

Problems left to solve:
Needs new door check arms
Driver door lock will not rotate
Passenger door lock has been pried out and now is loose
Liftgate latch will not lock or unlock with key
Coolant Temp still does not register, will replace thermostat
Flush radiator
Oil drain plug hole is stripped, will tap and go one size bigger
Change oil once more
Change differential fluid
Clay bar paint
Really needs tires
2 rust holes in the rear roof, along with a rusted out passenger rear pillar (biggest problem)

Goal: To sell a clean & good running XJ with minimal investment. I'm not trying to jerry-rig anything, but I'm not trying to make it perfect either. I think I can turn a decent profit with a little time and effort.

 

After the transmission was solved, the next biggest problem was the rear hatch would not open. This prevented me from even getting to the rust outs and cleaning the rear hatch area.

After trying WD40 through the key hole to no avail, I ended up cutting an area to I could manually operate the latch.




This was loose inside there, still trying to figure out where it goes or if it is just broken.

 

Getting ready for trim paint

 

Satin black trim and gloss black wheels