4" lift
06-29-2012, 10:20 PM
#1
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Model: Cherokee
4" lift
I'm looking at lifting 4", les schwab has a 4" kit that has rhe leaf pack, shocks, double arms, ect... Anyway... What are the negatives to putting a 4" insted of a 3 or 3.5?
I've heard things like ill need a t case lowering or SYE with a new driveshaft ...even thou the guys at les schwab didn't say that... What are YOUR personal experiences with a 4" lift...
I've heard things like ill need a t case lowering or SYE with a new driveshaft ...even thou the guys at les schwab didn't say that... What are YOUR personal experiences with a 4" lift...
06-30-2012, 02:07 AM
#4
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L 242
I'll chime in with what I've gleaned from reading numerous posts and my own adventures in piecing together my 3.5" RE kit (which comes out to more like 4.25").
You will hear from both sides of the fence. Some will run 4" of lift with no SYE and no t-case drop and they'll drive just fine. Other will have 3" of lift and shake wildly until they have an SYE or t-case drop.
Its one of those variables you can't plan for. IMHO, save up the extra 500$ and get an SYE/DS because it works. Also, if (read: When) you decide to go bigger you'll be glad you had it already installed. Same goes for axle shims, some people have (near)perfect pinion angle, others need 2,4 or 6* shims under the rear leafs to get it to be corrected.
If I've learned anything from reading build threads and having my own questions answered its this:
Don't just go out and do the lift quick and dirty because you can get it done in a day. Save your money and take your time to have it done and pieced together correctly otherwise you might regret it/have it bite you in the *** when you least expect it.
There aren't any REAL negatives to going higher, just added costs and other preventative measures. I'd venture to guess that you'd need an SYE (but again, i'd get one if I was doing anything over a BB) and a double cardan DS or a t-case drop. You might also want to look at adjustable control arms since the higher lift will shorten your wheel base and you'll lose flex by stuffing your front wheel into the back of the wheel well.
FWIW, my pieced together lift will roll in right around 2000$ with labor I'd imagine. That's with shocks, adjustable upper/lower arms, and the RE 3.5" superflex kit, SYE and DS
You will hear from both sides of the fence. Some will run 4" of lift with no SYE and no t-case drop and they'll drive just fine. Other will have 3" of lift and shake wildly until they have an SYE or t-case drop.
Its one of those variables you can't plan for. IMHO, save up the extra 500$ and get an SYE/DS because it works. Also, if (read: When) you decide to go bigger you'll be glad you had it already installed. Same goes for axle shims, some people have (near)perfect pinion angle, others need 2,4 or 6* shims under the rear leafs to get it to be corrected.
If I've learned anything from reading build threads and having my own questions answered its this:
Don't just go out and do the lift quick and dirty because you can get it done in a day. Save your money and take your time to have it done and pieced together correctly otherwise you might regret it/have it bite you in the *** when you least expect it.
There aren't any REAL negatives to going higher, just added costs and other preventative measures. I'd venture to guess that you'd need an SYE (but again, i'd get one if I was doing anything over a BB) and a double cardan DS or a t-case drop. You might also want to look at adjustable control arms since the higher lift will shorten your wheel base and you'll lose flex by stuffing your front wheel into the back of the wheel well.
FWIW, my pieced together lift will roll in right around 2000$ with labor I'd imagine. That's with shocks, adjustable upper/lower arms, and the RE 3.5" superflex kit, SYE and DS
06-30-2012, 11:08 AM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
I have a 4" lift with a t case drop. And I get terrible vibes. Motor and trans mounts are new. U joints are new. Took out the front driveshaft and still have driveline vibes. Have shims too. So the only thing left really is to do an SYE.
In my opinion, if you're going to lift it, do it right from the very beginning. Don't cheap out in any area. And cheaping out would be things like a t case drop or lift blocks in the rear. Do it right and never look back
In my opinion, if you're going to lift it, do it right from the very beginning. Don't cheap out in any area. And cheaping out would be things like a t case drop or lift blocks in the rear. Do it right and never look back
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06-30-2012, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 1996sportXJ
I have a 4" lift with a t case drop. And I get terrible vibes. Motor and trans mounts are new. U joints are new. Took out the front driveshaft and still have driveline vibes. Have shims too. So the only thing left really is to do an SYE.
In my opinion, if you're going to lift it, do it right from the very beginning. Don't cheap out in any area. And cheaping out would be things like a t case drop or lift blocks in the rear. Do it right and never look back
In my opinion, if you're going to lift it, do it right from the very beginning. Don't cheap out in any area. And cheaping out would be things like a t case drop or lift blocks in the rear. Do it right and never look back
07-01-2012, 01:36 AM
#11
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Year: 1992
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Advanced adapters sells a nice sye, I got my ds off my donor xj and had it rebuild and lengthened to save money. 4" ome lift.
Edit: Front double cardan ds
Edit: Front double cardan ds
07-01-2012, 08:14 AM
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Year: 1989 Laredo
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In addition to your driveshafts becoming too short and anglular difficulties, brake flex lines should change or relocate mount points, and your trac bar will become too short to center your front axle. Linkage to trans may require adjustment if you do a tcase drop. Make a list of the suggestions and checkem off as you prep resolutions.
07-02-2012, 01:12 PM
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a 4" lift for some people will be fine without anything, some people need t-case drops, some need sye no matter what. I have a t-case drop on mine with 5.5" of lift. but personally, anything over 3" on stock control arms will ride like crap even with nice shocks. so I would go with the 3-3.5" in your case. you will still clear 31's, you won't need a sye, maybe a t-case drop or shims which is must less expensive, and it'll ride better. the kit will be less, the trackbar and brake hoses should be fine unless u plan on doing a lot of offroading. and with a 3" lift, you can always add to it later on if you decide you want to. that's my 2 cents.