Figure this is the best place to post this.

I'm looking to pick up a welder since I find myself constantly needing one. I've done some welding before when I worked at a body shop, but I'm definitely not a professional. Seems like the Hobart Handler 140 is the best option for me so far since it will run off of regular socket (only 230v socket is in the laundry room) and works with flux core and gas. Gets good reviews and is made in the U.S.A.

But... I want to make sure it will do what I'm going to be asking of it, or at least most of it. I'm definitely not expecting that this will be last welder I need to buy, although it would be nice.

Here is what some I'm planning to do with it:

Rocker panel replacement on a suburban.

Exhaust work.

Tacking nuts onto broken bolts/studs.

Building a steering system/wj swap. Incl. relocating track bar above axle.

Installing frame stiffeners on the XJ.

Building a bumper.

Building an internal cage.

Will any of this be tough for this welder? If so, what would I be looking to buy? If not, what would be considered too much for this welder? Seems it's max is 1/4" and I can't think of anything on the Jeep that is thicker than that I would be welding too.

 

any 110v machine is only good for body metal.

since you said you want to build a bumper and steering components, you will definitely need a 220v.

there is a miller that is dual voltage so you can still use it for 110v till you get a 220v source.

 

What he said. And I have that Miller. 211, great machine. Will do everything you need it to if you have 220. I was looking for a 252, but it really is overkill unless you are using it to make money. I will own one eventually.









All I can say is worth every penny, has taken everything I've thrown at it so far.

Get the best you can afford. You won't regret saving your money, and/or being patient for the right machine to come along. Trust me. I have a HF MIG as well, and that thing is junk in comparison.

As a wise man here on CF once said, "Buy quality, cry once"

 

Yeah certainly looks nice. I checked it out but the price is way over budget for me. The hobart is already over budget. I'm looking at $500 for now, which is really pushing it for me. Next year I will be moving and have more disposable income and accessible 220v sockets. Could the hobart be used for everything except the cage/bumper? Those are later projects anyways. I'd only really need to weld in threaded bungs for the steering and relocate the track bar bracket. Any other options out there for dual voltage?

 

Anything suspension related should really be handled with a more powerful machine. If you were just doing bodywork and such a 110 would fit the bill. Anything that is structural you need a 220 machine. My advice stands, wait, save your money, and get the best you can.

FWIW, I got my machine on CL for around 800-900, with the factory warranty, now you may not find that, but the deals are out there. Do your research. Take your time. Do it right.

 

Alright thanks. Fact is, I do need a welder to do some work on the suburban, which can't wait past the winter. Good to know whats it's limits will be. I'll keep an eye out for a deal on a miller/hobart dual voltage though. Nothing wrong with having two welders in my opinion, one can be passed on in a couple years.

 

Indeed. My old HF mig is set out to pasture with being a flux core setup for around the house...

 

Love my 211. Miller just came out with a new one, it's almost half the size and weight! It's probably due to the use of an inverter. If it runs MIG anything like the Multimatic 200, I'd get one. It's also slightly cheaper than the previous model. There's a rebate going on through the end of the year. $200 off the machine and $200 worth of Miller/Hobart gear.
I almost wish I bought mine now rather than a year ago.

 

I have a Miller autoset 140 and it does tube and such just fine. I would say if you know what your doing I would be perfectly comfortable doing everything you stated with my machine. That being said I weld all day long everyday so I am confident in my abilities to make a sound weld. If you can possibly afford a 220 though I definitely recommend that. With a 110 machine anything you try to weld structurally will basically be on your max setting, where with a 220 machine you will most likely be welding in the mid range of the machines capabilities allowing more room for adjustments which in turn will end up with a better weld.

 

Just a thought, if you get your Holbart now you could pick up an old Lincoln arc welder off C.L. ($100-$200) for the structural stuff later when you have 220. I have the Lincoln Mig 140 which is pretty good, and will be looking for my arc welder soon.

The one thing you need to do is make sure you have a designated plug for the Mig preferably. (or just shut down as much as you can that shares the same breaker) If you are running your Mig on a circuit that does not deliver the correct current not only will your welding suffer but you can damage your welder.

You guys who know electrical better than me can correct me if I am wrong but would it be better to wire in a designated line with a 30 amp breaker to handle surges for the mig and other high amp machine like table saws and a large compressor? I plan on bringing a box to my garage so I can wire it the right way.

 

Will it be a 240 box alone? or will you be tapping 120 from it for other stuff also? I have to use double 50s for my old 240 Lincoln "Buzzbox" stick welder supply and there has been times when I had the heat turned up to weld heavier iron and had it kick because I didn't stop to let the breakers cool once in awhile. I now just run double 50s for all my 240 circuits

 

60/11 is TERRIBLE to weld with haha. i hate that crap.

 

I've got a harbor freight stick welder somewhere around here. Used it twice for exhaust and can't stand it. I think I'll stick with MIG. By the way, those towing mirrors on your ford look exactly like the chevrolet factory ones. Are those stock/factory?

 

Those are Chevy towing mirrors

 

Yes I would like to redo the box on the house and run a box that has two 120 lines with at least 50 amp breaker for them from the house to achieve 240 at the box on the garage. That way I can wire the lights, 110 plugs, 220 plug on separate breakers and a designated 110 plug 30 amp breaker for high draw tools.

We drop a sub panel in our basement with two 50 amp breakers to supply it to run the dryer and all the separate rooms we remodeled on their own circuits. It worked out great.

It really sucks having to reset breakers when they trip.