thinking about doing rear 4link on my cherokee
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,535
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From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Former Sponsor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,021
Likes: 1
From: Hesperia
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
im doing a rear 4 link for this exact reason.
heres a few things to help you
4 link calculator
this one had 4 link ideas along with a LOT of other useful stuff, just about any hardcore mod you can think of has been done and discussed here
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=582126
heres a few things to help you
4 link calculator
this one had 4 link ideas along with a LOT of other useful stuff, just about any hardcore mod you can think of has been done and discussed here
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=582126
CF Veteran



Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 18,786
Likes: 14
From: CT.
Year: 88
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO
i thought about a coil 4 link for the rear of mine for a few years now, but i wheel trails with a lot of off camber sections where a 4 link rear would be too unstable compared to leafs.
so i've kept my rear leafs for now, they are RE and flex just fine and keeps me on all fours.
so i've kept my rear leafs for now, they are RE and flex just fine and keeps me on all fours.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,535
Likes: 0
From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,474
Likes: 2
From: south jersey
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i been thinking of 4 linking mine too but the way my rig is set up and flexes im trying to decide if its really worth to do it right now or not and how much more i will gain from what i have now
DevilStory, for you i personally think your fine, the only real thing that it would help you with is drooping, which is good if you need to conform to the terrain like rocks and such.
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,021
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From: Hesperia
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
x2, if your after more flex it looks like you have more than enough flex,
im in the same position but im 4 linking mine so that i can have a smoother ride thru the rough stuff too
i hate the smooth feeling front end then the stiff jar of the rear end hitting the same bump
I forgot to mention, since you are looking for advice or experience on doing a 4 link rear then you should go to Pirate. There are maybe a few here who have done it, but over there, there are hundreds. If you don't wanna go over there, at least pay NAXJA's Advanced Fab. section a nice long visit. You will learn more pro's and con's in either of those two forums than here. I just don't think cherokeeforum's fabrication section is too "advanced" being that it is full of mostly bumper builds, rocker guards, and roof racks. (no offense to the admin)
well as far as what leafs i have on the back of my cherokee now they are 6 inch chevy springs from an 86 silverado.yes they are way stiffer than cherokee springs and they make my suspension and my ride quality unbalanced.they are going soon because ive already ordered the brackets from ballistic to do the swap,and 16 ft. of 2 inch .250 wall dom tubing.so very soon i will start posting pics of the swap.
Former Sponsor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,021
Likes: 1
From: Hesperia
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
well as far as what leafs i have on the back of my cherokee now they are 6 inch chevy springs from an 86 silverado.yes they are way stiffer than cherokee springs and they make my suspension and my ride quality unbalanced.they are going soon because ive already ordered the brackets from ballistic to do the swap,and 16 ft. of 2 inch .250 wall dom tubing.so very soon i will start posting pics of the swap.
I forgot to mention, since you are looking for advice or experience on doing a 4 link rear then you should go to Pirate. There are maybe a few here who have done it, but over there, there are hundreds. If you don't wanna go over there, at least pay NAXJA's Advanced Fab. section a nice long visit. You will learn more pro's and con's in either of those two forums than here. I just don't think cherokeeforum's fabrication section is too "advanced" being that it is full of mostly bumper builds, rocker guards, and roof racks. (no offense to the admin)
besides whats wrong with that site? i think its better as far as info than naxja
Yeah I played with the link calculator a little bit and because of where I'm placing the crossmember to clear the driveshaft my lowers are gonna be 4 ft long. That's if I go with a double triangulated setup. If I do single I can mount the lowers on the bottom of the framerail or on the inside of it. I'm still working out all the details but the calculator is handy because I want good link geometry and shoot for having a neutral setup with no squat.
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,021
Likes: 1
From: Hesperia
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
id go with 1 1/2 .120 dom, its a bit lighter and thats what most people use. .250 wall is really really heavy and over kill for upper arms.
if you use 1.5 .120 wall then you can still use a 7/8 heim and weld in insert
if you use 1.5 .120 wall then you can still use a 7/8 heim and weld in insert
I was advised by blue torch and ballistic fab not to use .120 wall for my rear 4 link they said it wouldn't be strong enough they suggested 1 1/2 .250 for the uppers and 1 3/4 .250 for the lowers. I have everything else I need to start this build including 14 in FOA coilovers but the link material and what size to use is what's holding me up.
kinda late for me to pop in my 2 cents, but gotta agree with X1994J. a 4 link that is set up right with perfect geometry is actually more stable than leafs. specially with coils (easier to set up) vs. air shocks, air shocks at a certain off camber angles will start to unload and want to roll the rig over. all in all measure and weigh the rig and do the math. lost of really good info out there on the math and formulas to get it right. if you go to pirate4x4 look for a guy "billybob" is his screen name he can further help you.


