96rokee

got new 35s and they were rubbing up front with 4.5in lift so i got some spacers and solved that, but now my jeep looks funky with the front higher.
soo i decided id weld up some shackle relocators, to give me the 1.5"ish lift without throwin down 3-400 on leafs springs with more arch then i want anyways.

i made extra sets for sale so anyone interested lemme kno
and i plan on building diy kits for people with there own welders.


^^^all center punched ready to drill.


^^^drilled and sanded, this is what the diy kit would look like if i get enough interest.
also could sell without holes drilled for even cheaper but ill get prices sorted out later.
keep in mind there is 2 big plates i just didnt get the 2nd in the pic


^^^tacked up. i put a slight bend in the backside because i knew the welds were going to curl it up. they are flat after welding


^^^i did a corner to corner weld to prevent having to bevel the edges. straight stringer bead.





thats as far as i got today,
tmrw im going to drop my current shackle and figure out where i need the smaller tabs welded to go into the oem shackle bolt box
then weld it on and paint these up and there ready to bolt onto any xj.
nut strips from a tow package required for full strength.

lemme know what you guys think
criticize my welds id like opinions. drawin a blank on the machine model but its probly a 3000$+ miller mig welder.
set at 15 working voltage and 225ish wire speed
( keep in mind im 19, not a journeyman welder. but im workin towards it every day. )

xjmarc

Welds look good to me. You may want to do some measuring because on mine, which are the HD Offroad version, the holes are a bit farther forward and I'm in the first hole. So unless you're running a fairly small shackle they may not work as well as you want.

96rokee

hmm well ill take a pic tmrw with it held up to the jeep with the leaf dropped.
but i thinkk it should be good.

when i designed it i made it to where the oem shackle hole lined up with the 2nd hole from the left. so theres 1 hole to the left of the oem hole and 3 holes to the right of the oem hole. and the holes are 1 1/4" apart.

N20jeep

looks good, real nice

xjmarc

My shackle moved about an inch and a half in front of the factory box, not bolt hole. But I'm running the chevy drop shackles which are quite long.

brutalxj

I expected to look on here and see a mess. But vary nicely dune. Not what I expected to find on CF

96rokee

curious whats the eye to eye on a " quite long " shackle.
imo would be 6in but im just curious your opinion.

i plan on making shackles identicle to claytons with adjustable lift at 1 1.5 and 2 which would be 5in 6in and 7in eye to eye.

96rokee

thanks

when ya got a teacher whos been teachin for 43yrs and weldin for 63,
it makes it easier to learn and enjoy learning.
even if he is an old salty cuss hahahaha

xjmarc

Not real sure how long they are and it's a bit dark here on the right coast but they are roughly 3" lift IIRC.

Domaas

the chevy drop shackle was somewhere around 8" eye to eye on the last hole..but a bit too wide for the 2.5" spring. I cut a set down, and narrowed them to 5" to work with the relocation brakets i just build.



OP...looks nice.

Gorillaxj

X2! looks very nice!

As long as the holes give enough forward options I see no problems, but shouldn't be anything but a minor adjustment in the making process if so...

the pic above looks about 2.5-3" in front of the original shackle bolt. but could be wrong. With My Hd's and RE1.5" lift shackle I am in the 2nd hole from the front. If it wasn't dark I would go measure...

d50

looks good whats the material thickness?

96rokee

all 3/16ths

Gary Briggs

If that shackle is tapered, wont it rub and bind as the suspension articulates?

96rokee

i assume your talking to domaas?

nothin tapered here..?

but i agree it seems like if that tire got tucked it might wedge in there