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LONGARM BUILD

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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 09:12 PM
  #91  
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From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
i think the crossmember is a very simple design really... maybe another piece of steel up the inside of the frame rail so when you bolt it on through the frame it pinches the frame... make sense? also you lost 1/4in yes... or a 1 1/4in technically... but you also lost it all the way across... the stock setup is thick only in the middle...

I have this exact same size of tube in the shop actually that ive been trying to figure out what to do with... now i know... my question is do you think its possible to run it with only the one piece... not stacked... or will it pick the tranny up higher then stock? i wonder if cutting the center of it down to about an inch thick would kill the strength VS. the two inches or so it is... this would allow the tranny to sit down in it alittle more and still raise the crossmember off the ground... what ya think?
you can't go one piece unless you notch for front drive shaft and trans member..
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 09:15 PM
  #92  
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From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by sandaddik2
nice work, your cross member came out a lot cleaner than mine did
i hope you put a piece of plate on both sides of the frame rails where your 2 bolts on each side grab. you wouldnt want to tighten the bolt down and crush the frame rail on the inner side.

if you look i only went through one side of the rail with short bolts and i bored out two of the drain holes to get up into the rail with a wrench...if i were to go straight through i would weld in sleaves to stop it from crushing..the rails are actually pretty beefy right there too..
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 09:47 PM
  #93  
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Where are your upper brackets going
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 09:52 PM
  #94  
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From: cape cod ma.
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hey guys looking for so input....up in the air on joints anyone use ballistics 2.63 rebuildables? or the ruffstuff cryo heims? i like the ballistics and they have square weld in ends
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 09:57 PM
  #95  
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From: muskogee oklahoma
Year: 1988
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Ok so I don't mean to sound completely dumb but what exactly is DOM tubing? I have been wanting to build my own long arm setup but every write up uses a lot of terms I don't quite understand
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 09:59 PM
  #96  
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by xjshake
Ok so I don't mean to sound completely dumb but what exactly is DOM tubing? I have been wanting to build my own long arm setup but every write up uses a lot of terms I don't quite understand

DOM is formed in a circle... other tubing is formed flat and then rolled and welded/"sanded" down a seam... reg tube will have what looks like a line running down it... like chainlink fence pipe almost... or exhaust pipe... DOM is nice and smooth...
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 10:07 PM
  #97  
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D.O.M starts out as Hot Rolled Electic Welded (AKA HREW) and is then Drawn Over a Mandrel (D.O.M) to eliminate the seam, strengthen, and shape the finished product.

http://www.protofab.com/tubing.html
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 10:09 PM
  #98  
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From: Hesperia
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Originally Posted by xjshake
Ok so I don't mean to sound completely dumb but what exactly is DOM tubing? I have been wanting to build my own long arm setup but every write up uses a lot of terms I don't quite understand
it stands for Drawn Over Mandrel. it means that they take a piece of steel and pull it thru a machine almost "forging" for lack of better words the piece of tube into shape. it is stronger but will not flex back into its original shape like hrew (normal tube).

in hrew the seam is considered weak which it is thus the reason people prefer dom tubing as it has no seam. but in most cases if you make something such as rock sliders and use hrew and put the seam on top it will be just as strong and when they take a hard hit they will flex instead of bend and stay bent, but for something like a roll cage dom is stronger so it would be wiser to use dom.
they both have their pros and cons
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 10:38 PM
  #99  
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From: cape cod ma.
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and for the record the joints are for the uppers..still standing by my lowers..so far been great
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 11:14 PM
  #100  
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Thanx guys
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 01:05 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by alloutperform
hey guys looking for so input....up in the air on joints anyone use ballistics 2.63 rebuildables? or the ruffstuff cryo heims? i like the ballistics and they have square weld in ends
either or would work fine for you.

The Ruffstuff Chryo's are gonna be super beef.
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 01:12 PM
  #102  
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From: muskogee oklahoma
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How do you guys connect the joints to the tubing.... weld them or do they have some kind of connector... I think ill make one after I get another motor
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 01:16 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by alloutperform
hey guys looking for so input....up in the air on joints anyone use ballistics 2.63 rebuildables? or the ruffstuff cryo heims? i like the ballistics and they have square weld in ends
Originally Posted by xjshake
How do you guys connect the joints to the tubing.... weld them or do they have some kind of connector... I think ill make one after I get another motor
the two main ways are if you're using thick walled tubing to just get/have it tapped for the threads of the joint. <-very very few home builders go that rout because of the labor and cost involved.


most people just buy weld-in bungs that the joint threads into.
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 01:29 PM
  #104  
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From: muskogee oklahoma
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Ok... I got ya... anything else you guys know that I need to know.. I know what DOM tubing is and now I know about mounting the joints on the tubing... the crossmember looked real simple
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 01:39 PM
  #105  
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From: cape cod ma.
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Engine: 4.0 i6
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Originally Posted by xjshake
Ok... I got ya... anything else you guys know that I need to know.. I know what DOM tubing is and now I know about mounting the joints on the tubing... the crossmember looked real simple

uh...not be rude but you have alot of reseach to do not to mention skills to aquire...the crossmember was very labor intensive and while simple still has to be pretty precise and strong..it's your life and life of others in your hands...start by building a bumper or tire carrier maybe some sliders before trying to build suspention..i have built a number of drag cars suspentions and still learned alot doing this
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