right now it rides like a caddy better than stock...

 

If you build it right a radius arm set-up will not go anywhere, you'll end up cracking the unibody or bending a Dana 30 housing first.

I know a guy who has run the same radius arm set-up on multiple XJs with no issues.

For uppers, you really need to do either a 3 link or a radius arm setup. There just isn't room under the front of an XJ for a 4 link.

For the back....I don't know why you would do radius arms when there's plenty of room to do a 4 link and not need a trac-bar.

I hate to sound like a jerk, but from what you've posted here it seems like you have quite a bit to learn about suspension design. Which is okay, everyone has gotta learn sometime. I'd suggest becoming a lurker ***** on Pirate4x4. You will learn more about building a rig yourself than you ever wanted to know.

 

not at all...any input is good input..i know enough to admit to myself if i have a bad idea....so far everything is working rather well but i know there is plenty of room for improvment.I am learning about offroad designs, as i have only done race applications in the past where travel and movement isn't as much of a concern. i brought it out today for it's first trail trials did well... i did recently join pirate and probably won't say much there (waaayyyy to much testosterone on that site) as well as i just don't have the experiance to chime in.once i get the truck on the lift and start measuring again i may go a different direction.i was thinking of a radius rod setup on the rear just for the ease of install and i have done a pile of ladderbar dragcars with track bars,panhards and watts links so i'm comfortable with the set up.. we will see what happens next weekend i'm finishing the front..the rear is a long way out

 

My only issue with radius arms in the rear are if the jeep will be flexed. Especially if you have a bigger axle out back. A d35 will probably handle the housing/tube flex caused by a radius arm, but something with thick tubes (like an 8.8) runs a risk of destroying control arm mounts.

A 4 link with triangulated uppers is not to hard to fab up and will work nicely on and off road.

 

agreed...10 mins of reseach changed that plan

 

There's not too much testosterone on pirate, there's pretty much a zero tolerance policy to idiocy. If you say or ask something completely stupid you will get flamed for it.

Do a 4 link in the rear like everyone else. There's a reason so many people build or run 4 links, and its not because they're cool.

Yeah because a having your axle housing flex is totally something you want to happen. BTW 8.8s do NOT have thick axle tubes, if anything they are on the thinner end of the spectrum.

If you want thick axle tubes get a Dana 60 or a Dana 44, most 60s and a few 44s have 1/2" thick axle tubes.

 

Read what I wrote. Did I say the flexing was a positive thing? No.

I said the thinner tubes can handle the flex better without destroying mounts than the thicker tubes.

And what are you babbling about other axles for? I was talking about radius arms in general for the rear

 

your not flat out sayin it but what you are saying makes it sound like its ok for the axle tube to flex because it wont break mounts... but in turn everything inside will break... so that makes no sense...

 

Implying that having thinner tubes would be a good thing.

If you build and weld on axle mounts the right way, flexing a vehicle isn't going to rip them off under most circumstances.

 

No never did I say that. I said you could probably get away with radius arms on a thinner tube axle.

Fine, if it doesn't damage the mounts, then it will wear out whatever link ends you use. It's because of the forces produced by flexing a radius arm system

 

and pirate is full of testosterone... i dont disagree with you much boss but even difficult questions anywhere else, will get flamed there because theres always someone who knows more and knows everything... forums are ment to ask questions to get answer... even if the answered are already out there... if its been asked 10 times then it shouldnt be flamed... if its been asked a zillion times then flame away... on pirate it doesnt matter what you say... theres always a smart "butt" somewhere... i mostly just read read read from there site... more information there then anywhere else...

 

I am not saying the flexing is a good thing.

But it may last longer, look at all the d30's running radius arms. They seem to be handling the flex

 

hey guys i'm not trashin pirate but it is hard for guys to get there foot in the door because there are guys on there that are way too hardcore...yes i agree it's no different then here when we get "how much lift to run 33s" here if people start asking dumb repeated questions but i see stuff on pirate that are decent questions and some guy that doesn't remember when he was 20 just learning to build stuff frying the kid.

that being said i'm not on here saying i know it all or i am building a competition rock buggy i'm still a little uneasy on the lifetime of the joints in the winters around here.. but after today i have come to terms that i will keep pushing my jeep and should go joints on one end as you guys said i should still no issues but i want all i can get out of what i am building.. but they do work well:

 

Love the pic,something about snow wheeling pics

I'm glad you decided to run joints on your lowers,I think you'll be so much happier.

 

hate to bug you but im looking to do the exact same thing and just wanted to see what you did with your upper control arms. Did you mount them on the lowers and get a new bracket? Any pics would help. Thanks