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LONGARM BUILD

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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 12:05 AM
  #136  
alloutperform's Avatar
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From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
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Originally Posted by mattfish1
hate to bug you but im looking to do the exact same thing and just wanted to see what you did with your upper control arms. Did you mount them on the lowers and get a new bracket? Any pics would help. Thanks
uppers are in the works...i haven't had the time yet but the plan is to do a three link with a radius arm on the drivers side
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 08:12 AM
  #137  
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From: Naples, Fl
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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So you are using stock location for the uppers then. You got more flex just doing the lowers? That would be easy for me too do because i already the lowers that were given to me from a budy.
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 12:36 PM
  #138  
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From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by mattfish1
So you are using stock location for the uppers then. You got more flex just doing the lowers? That would be easy for me too do because i already the lowers that were given to me from a budy.
Improvement over stock arms
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 10:43 PM
  #139  
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From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
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you can run stock location uppers but they have to be about an inch longer to correct caster angles
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 11:07 PM
  #140  
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From: Hesperia
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by ZachsXJ
I highly doubt a long arm made from .250 or .375 wall tube would be dangerous on the road if bent/dented.

It takes a pretty significant amount of force to deform 1/4" mild steel. At the very worst a bent long arm made from .250 wall tube would cause the Jeep to not track properly.
its funny how you guys debate if .250 wall is enough or not but most of the guys on here who say this probably have or want to buy a kit from a company that makes their arms from .250 wall. steel is steel tube no matter whos sticker is on it.
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