LONGARM BUILD
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: shohola PA
Year: 85,88,95,98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.8&4.0
i like it. you did a good, clean job 
. i think i might do something like this some time after i get a new rear axle and some lockers. keep us updated on how the bushings hold up and how it handles on the trails. i like the color too.
. i think i might do something like this some time after i get a new rear axle and some lockers. keep us updated on how the bushings hold up and how it handles on the trails. i like the color too.
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Posts: 1,140
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From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
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From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
quick report: it rides WAYYYYY BETTER then it did before and seems to steer better (i think due to the axle being back where it belongs) it feels tight and doesn't wander and no death wobble..but today is day one
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
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From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by ZachsXJ
The advised way is rubber bushings on the axle ends and then some nice beefy joints for the axle end. I say beefy because if you do the typical and simple y-link long arm setup, those TWO joints basically hold the ENTIRE front suspension in place. Definitely not a place to cheap out and save a few bucks.
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Joined: Nov 2010
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From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
uppers are coming soon...gonna make mounts on the inside of the rails and use the stock upper axle mounts i'm waiting on the joints from ruffstuff
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,135
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From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
lookes good tho!
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From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
thanks! yeah i had planned on plating the unibody....but i like the channel option better
i'm also jonesin to do the rear but thats got to wait 
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and I was saying that he should get some high quality joints, because in a long-arm setup those two mounting points hold the front axle in place.
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
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From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by ZachsXJ
how do you figure? I was saying if he did the typical Y-link long-arm setup that the best way to build it would be with JJ/Heims at the mounting end, and rubbing bushings at the axle end.
and I was saying that he should get some high quality joints, because in a long-arm setup those two mounting points hold the front axle in place.
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
i think the crossmember is a very simple design really... maybe another piece of steel up the inside of the frame rail so when you bolt it on through the frame it pinches the frame... make sense? also you lost 1/4in yes... or a 1 1/4in technically... but you also lost it all the way across... the stock setup is thick only in the middle...
I have this exact same size of tube in the shop actually that ive been trying to figure out what to do with... now i know... my question is do you think its possible to run it with only the one piece... not stacked... or will it pick the tranny up higher then stock? i wonder if cutting the center of it down to about an inch thick would kill the strength VS. the two inches or so it is... this would allow the tranny to sit down in it alittle more and still raise the crossmember off the ground... what ya think?
I have this exact same size of tube in the shop actually that ive been trying to figure out what to do with... now i know... my question is do you think its possible to run it with only the one piece... not stacked... or will it pick the tranny up higher then stock? i wonder if cutting the center of it down to about an inch thick would kill the strength VS. the two inches or so it is... this would allow the tranny to sit down in it alittle more and still raise the crossmember off the ground... what ya think?
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,021
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From: Hesperia
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
nice work, your cross member came out a lot cleaner than mine did
i hope you put a piece of plate on both sides of the frame rails where your 2 bolts on each side grab. you wouldnt want to tighten the bolt down and crush the frame rail on the inner side.
i hope you put a piece of plate on both sides of the frame rails where your 2 bolts on each side grab. you wouldnt want to tighten the bolt down and crush the frame rail on the inner side.