i'd at least weld in some gussets on the cross member mounts, you'd be surprised just how much lateral force gets put on those mounts.

and use some johnny joints on the cross member ends, you'll be replacing those bushings every month.

 

x2

 

capping the top side and gusseting both sides of the crossmember mounts i just didn't have time to pull the crossmember to do it last night

 

I would have agreed with you guys a while ago but my dads buddy has a bronco on 60s and linked front and rear and all his control arms are made out of 1.75 .120 wall tubing also and they are working fine so far,

1/8 plate is weaker than 1/8 tube. anytime you have a flat surface it is weaker and is more prone to denting or bending compared to material that has a curve in it or a fold which tubing has no flat spots in it so it is much stronger than people think. if you make them out of chromoly then they will be stronger than 2 inch .250 wall dom for those of you that like overkill


nah, the bushings will last, i have poly bushings at my frame mounts. and if the frame mounts are 1/4 plate you will be fine.

 

ok round 3: the lowers are done installed and it drive SOOOOOO much better pics,


crossmember back out fully welded and bedlined:



close up of arm mount:




next 2 are for the ground clearance guys (just so you see my perspective not saying i wouldn't benifit from a slimmer design):



only lose 1/4" over previous set up:



i put it all back together (no need for more of the same pics) flex test and clearance time:

 

i see the flex but i know it would be more if there were heims or JJ involed just let us know how long the rubber lasts

 

Agreed^^^^
I'm not trying to down your work but I think those bushings are no good for flexing and they could prematurely get wasted putting all that pressure on them when it flex out. Or even twist the long arms or bend the axle brackets.
The heims would be the way to go but it's not to late to change it with the skills you have.

But other than that. Real clean job.

 

thanks and i did talk to the guys at energy suspention and they told me that those bushings are supposed to do what i want...the chances fo that jeep ever getting twisted like that on the trail are slim....i'm still open diffs so i cant drive it up on something like that

 

Looks good and pretty beefy for what you want it to do.

But heims or jj's would definetly be the way to go for more flex at the frame end because of the way a coil suspension cycles.

 

nice simple design!! may need some tweaking but I like the crossmember concept but would change up the lower mounts. maybe recess them inside the channel for strength..

 

Love the looks and color of your Jeep If I were you though Like others of said I would run a heim or JJ at the axle. You may not flex it like in the pics but your suspension is going to flex quite a bit during normal driving and will cause them bushings to wear rather quickly.

 

It shouldn't flex near enough during street driving to wear the bushings prematurely

 

guys think about this......every short arm bolt on kit out there just about comes with poly bushings similar to mine..correct? short arms move and twist at far greater angles then my longarm will...and again i know that you can get short arms w/ joints and so forth but for what i am doing and the amount of cash i am willing to spend ($2500 so far including buying the jeep) the poly bushings IMO were the best way to get what i wanted without spending $100 bucks on joints that i will never use to there ability and i can't say for sure how they hold up in the snowy salt covered roads i see up here...i know poly bushing will hold up also going with greasable bolts and drilling and tapping all 4 bar ends for grease joints

 

oh and thanks on the color! jeep had a pile of dark greens and i have yet to see another the same as mine in person..

 

sounds like they were just trying to sell a couple extra bushings.