Hudfab Mid-arm 4-link build
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 0
From: Littleton, CO
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2001 4.0L
so i made some progress today. its been way to cold in my garage to work latley. got it back on it feet today. lift hieght is relly unknown at this point. i will have to figure that out. it is all used springs and are un known brands or lift hieghts????

drivers upper installed

pass side installed....still gotta fix the exhaust.

my $450 dollar jeep on new 35'' shoes....my "parts" jeep off to the right. it used to have 12 inch lift, d60's, and 40 inch iroks.
notice the sign on the back wall

here you can see the 2'' stretch on the front. and the snow on my garage floor.....(forgot to mention that part in the beginning) the coil sits directly on top of the axle tube instead of 2 inches in front like stock. there is a straight line from the middle of my bumpstop to the coil bucket. this thing should drive great.

i will get back on it tomarrow and get the new lowers built and prob the trac bar and steering wrapped up.
then on to things like...
brake lines
zj prop valve
d-shafts
sye
trimming
tube flares
new paint
bumpers
sliders
roof rack
unibody plating
bla
bla
bla............................................... ......
and maybe at some point cut off the stock lower brkts and take off the stock uppers and shocks!!!

drivers upper installed

pass side installed....still gotta fix the exhaust.

my $450 dollar jeep on new 35'' shoes....my "parts" jeep off to the right. it used to have 12 inch lift, d60's, and 40 inch iroks.
notice the sign on the back wall


here you can see the 2'' stretch on the front. and the snow on my garage floor.....(forgot to mention that part in the beginning) the coil sits directly on top of the axle tube instead of 2 inches in front like stock. there is a straight line from the middle of my bumpstop to the coil bucket. this thing should drive great.

i will get back on it tomarrow and get the new lowers built and prob the trac bar and steering wrapped up.
then on to things like...
brake lines
zj prop valve
d-shafts
sye
trimming
tube flares
new paint
bumpers
sliders
roof rack
unibody plating
bla
bla
bla............................................... ......
and maybe at some point cut off the stock lower brkts and take off the stock uppers and shocks!!!
Last edited by MallCrawlXJ; Feb 5, 2011 at 08:50 AM.
Honorary Moderator
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,135
Likes: 16
From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
the drive line will be fine. I run a 2.5" stretch with 7.25" lift and stock DS it works just done.
Looks very good! mid arms are awesome! great job keeping the true 4 link too
Looks very good! mid arms are awesome! great job keeping the true 4 link too
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 0
From: Littleton, CO
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2001 4.0L
totally worth it IMO. tnt truss, auburn ected elec locker, 4.88s, chromo shafts, wj knuckles and brakes(drilled and slotted rotors also), ballistic fab one ton high steer, 1.5 inch spacers and a ruffstuff diff cover....all freshly built when i picked it up.
have a built 8.8 out back with tnt truss, eaton e-locker, disc brakes, 4.88's, 2.5 inch spacers, and a rock crusher diff cover
anyone know the length of a stock lp d30 front d-shaft??.......hp one is too short.
oh yeah, THANK YOU!! for the compliments guys. it keeps me motivated!!!!
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 0
From: Littleton, CO
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2001 4.0L
do it!! the rockkrawler and poly performance kits are pretty much a "mid arm" setup. i think their arms are about the same length as mine. that would save some build time and prob be about the same price. ......that is if you dont have the time to build one.
only reason i built my own and didnt buy the rk or poly performance kit is because i wanted to stretch the front a bit.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,071
Likes: 0
From: Denver, CO
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
do it!! the rockkrawler and poly performance kits are pretty much a "mid arm" setup. i think their arms are about the same length as mine. that would save some build time and prob be about the same price. ......that is if you dont have the time to build one.
only reason i built my own and didnt buy the rk or poly performance kit is because i wanted to stretch the front a bit.
only reason i built my own and didnt buy the rk or poly performance kit is because i wanted to stretch the front a bit.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 0
From: Littleton, CO
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2001 4.0L
they cost a bit more than y-link upgrades but are well worth it. plus you can do clutches or whatever without pulling your suspension.
http://rockkrawler.com/?r_intro=1
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...n-p-25563.html
google poly performance cherokee images to see them installed.
you can get either in a 3-link flavor id you would like. they both make 4 and 3-link kits.
its been snowing out most the day so i didnt get much done. got a new track bar brkt built and track bar installed. got my stainless brake lines installed up front. plated my unibody at the steering box with 3/16s and ripped out my old steering box because it was popping. got my shocks painted black. took off the front bumper and trimmed a bit
i will get some pics of the progress tomarrow. doubt i will work on it much if at all
http://rockkrawler.com/?r_intro=1
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...n-p-25563.html
google poly performance cherokee images to see them installed.
you can get either in a 3-link flavor id you would like. they both make 4 and 3-link kits.
its been snowing out most the day so i didnt get much done. got a new track bar brkt built and track bar installed. got my stainless brake lines installed up front. plated my unibody at the steering box with 3/16s and ripped out my old steering box because it was popping. got my shocks painted black. took off the front bumper and trimmed a bit
i will get some pics of the progress tomarrow. doubt i will work on it much if at all
Last edited by MallCrawlXJ; Feb 5, 2011 at 06:21 PM.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 0
From: Littleton, CO
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2001 4.0L
got the mid-arms finished up this weekend. just gotta slap in some d-shafts and rear shocks then for a test drive. i will post up some pics of the lowers and finished install pics later tnight....my memory card on my camera is full. links are 2x2 1/4 wall square tube. i went to buy dom and my metal shop had none in stock and 2x2 was half the price for a full stick. plus i will use the extra 2x2 where as i would have never used the extra 2.25x.375 tubing. i will re-build the uppers later on with some 1.5x1.5 square to make it match.......or maybe with some 2x2 if it will clear the unibody
i will be starting a build thread soon aswell since this thing was completly stock when i started.
i will be starting a build thread soon aswell since this thing was completly stock when i started.
Last edited by MallCrawlXJ; Feb 23, 2011 at 11:00 AM.
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 7
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Confused by what u mean about mid arms? Guessing that's different then long arms but got a good definition? I can look it up but in class right now on my phone so not alot of time today... u ran your uppers inside of the frame rail?
Basically I'm using the stock locations on my 05 Dana 60... they are right above each other and right directly inline with the frame... easy build for my lowers... hard for my uppers... trying to figure out what my best bet is really... can't bend pipe so gonna have to run the uppers either to the stock lowers locations... cut off and beefed of course... or run them to the lower links... bout my only options I think... any ideas?
Basically I'm using the stock locations on my 05 Dana 60... they are right above each other and right directly inline with the frame... easy build for my lowers... hard for my uppers... trying to figure out what my best bet is really... can't bend pipe so gonna have to run the uppers either to the stock lowers locations... cut off and beefed of course... or run them to the lower links... bout my only options I think... any ideas?
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 0
From: Littleton, CO
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2001 4.0L
defenition of mid arms is right in between long arms and short arms.
my lowers are around 26 inches and my uppers are around 24 inches...long arms are usually 30-35 for the lowers and 30-32 for the uppers(true 4-link anyways)
here a few of the threads i got started with
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1052108
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1015930
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58482 lots of good info in this one
yes i ran my uppers to the inside of the frame rail. only issue i ran into there was my exhaust being in the way. its tech just a c-channel around my unidody.
i think with the d60 you are running, you really have no choice but to run some sort of radius arm set-up.....unless you cut all that stock crap off and build all new mounts for it.

my lowers are around 26 inches and my uppers are around 24 inches...long arms are usually 30-35 for the lowers and 30-32 for the uppers(true 4-link anyways)
here a few of the threads i got started with
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1052108
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1015930
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58482 lots of good info in this one
yes i ran my uppers to the inside of the frame rail. only issue i ran into there was my exhaust being in the way. its tech just a c-channel around my unidody.
i think with the d60 you are running, you really have no choice but to run some sort of radius arm set-up.....unless you cut all that stock crap off and build all new mounts for it.
Last edited by MallCrawlXJ; Feb 23, 2011 at 07:55 PM.
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 7
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
defenition of mid arms is right in between long arms and short arms.
my lowers are around 26 inches and my uppers are around 24 inches...long arms are usually 30-35 for the lowers and 30-32 for the uppers(true 4-link anyways)
here is one of the threads i got started with
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1052108
yes i ran my uppers to the inside of the frame rail. only issue i ran into there was my exhaust being in the way. its tech just a c-channel around my unidody.
i think with the d60 you are running, you really have no choice but to run some sort of radius arm set-up.....unless you cut all that stock crap off and build all new mounts for it.

my lowers are around 26 inches and my uppers are around 24 inches...long arms are usually 30-35 for the lowers and 30-32 for the uppers(true 4-link anyways)
here is one of the threads i got started with
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1052108
yes i ran my uppers to the inside of the frame rail. only issue i ran into there was my exhaust being in the way. its tech just a c-channel around my unidody.
i think with the d60 you are running, you really have no choice but to run some sort of radius arm set-up.....unless you cut all that stock crap off and build all new mounts for it.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 0
From: Littleton, CO
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2001 4.0L
it is....rides damn good. flexed it out at 4wp yesterday and was impressed. my front shocks are too short and my tires are hitting the inner fenders, so im gonna have to relocate my battery to the back and cut out the inner fender.
not enough interest in this thread to finish it.
not enough interest in this thread to finish it.


