Hudfab Mid-arm 4-link build
#16
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When you factor in that deflection in bending increases with the cube of the length of the stressed member, you can reduce deflection by 60% and stress in the arm (which will eventually break the arm) by 15%.
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Cool. I've been wondering about this myself and it seems like a mid arm isn't a bad way to go. Say you have a suspension with 4" of uptravel and 8" of downtravel (from ride height) for a total of 12" of travel. If the lower arm is 2" below level at ride height then a 22" arm will pull the axle back 2.32" to get the 8" of down travel. A 26" arm would pull it back about 1.92" resulting in a whopping (sarcasm alert) 0.40" less front/back displacement with a 4" longer arm. Seems to me that you'd be just as well off with a track bar that allows a little more misalignment to prevent binding.
When you factor in that deflection in bending increases with the cube of the length of the stressed member, you can reduce deflection by 60% and stress in the arm (which will eventually break the arm) by 15%.
When you factor in that deflection in bending increases with the cube of the length of the stressed member, you can reduce deflection by 60% and stress in the arm (which will eventually break the arm) by 15%.
im not really all about flex these days. more of a good all purpose vehicle. you have to comprimise somewhere....drive like crap on road and wheel with the best of em, or drive great and crawl at the mall! im trying to get the best of both worlds.....lol, we will see how that turns out!
Last edited by MallCrawlXJ; 01-31-2011 at 06:21 PM.
#18
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wow!!!
you have skills man
but if you ever want to make an extra pair and sell them i would love to take them off ur hand!!
you have skills man
but if you ever want to make an extra pair and sell them i would love to take them off ur hand!!
#20
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thanks guys.....i wont be building any more any time soon. i will rock em for a while before i even think of doing that.
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Nice start dude. I pretty much convinced myself to do a rear triangulated 4link with either coils or coil overs. Idk which one tho. We need to get together again a wheel. I wanna take you down indy with me
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why 3/4? just curious cause i use those on my steering. i run 7/8 on all my uppers i build.
also why 4 link? 3 works just fine with less bind
without any rosette welds(plug welds) in the frame mounts i see problems in your future. unless it's just driven on dirt rds.
other than that it's looking good.
also why 4 link? 3 works just fine with less bind
without any rosette welds(plug welds) in the frame mounts i see problems in your future. unless it's just driven on dirt rds.
other than that it's looking good.
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Originally Posted by jmaxj
why 3/4? just curious cause i use those on my steering. i run 7/8 on all my uppers i build.
also why 4 link? 3 works just fine with less bind
without any rosette welds(plug welds) in the frame mounts i see problems in your future. unless it's just driven on dirt rds.
other than that it's looking good.
also why 4 link? 3 works just fine with less bind
without any rosette welds(plug welds) in the frame mounts i see problems in your future. unless it's just driven on dirt rds.
other than that it's looking good.
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i missed where he said why he wouldn't run a 3 link. i seen why about radius (Y-links) but not a true 3 link.
and my concern for the frame mounts was because i've had a set rip off that were pretty much the same way
i like the build i think it looks good so far i just had a few question/concerns for HIM!!
BTW: i was never implying that since my arms are .281 wall everyones need to be.
#25
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i have never had a prob with 3/4 heims. i used em with one tons and never broke one. if you use em on your steering, than what makes them less inferior to use in an upper application? they are way stonger than any of the upper joints ANY corperate company builds thier arms with. i asked a rep for rubicon why they didnt use hiems and he stated that the only reasons they didnt was because they are not servicable and a little noisier(most of thier customers pound pavement 95% of the time). and as for the rossette welds.....no need for em. if you look close at the pics you will see two mounting tabs right behind the upper. there is now three more on the outside. there will be a 3/16's plate welded to the top side of my floor under the carpet, that will go over the entire "frame" rail. most people and companys bolt thru the unibody with sleeves. i have seen a few rip the unibody where the bolts go thru. with my "frame" essentially squeezed from top to bottom rather than from side to side, i wont have this problem. your frame takes more while you are compressing the suspesion hence the reason i built it like this. my axle doesnt see much side to side movementc ause my track bar does what its supposed to.
my one ton xj had pretty much the same mounts.....just way less beefy, and no mounting tabs with bolts, only welded(no rosettes). i beat the holy crap out of that jeep, put it on its lid twice, welded a new roof on and did it again!! ca mounts never budged.
i still have the one ton turd wonder in my garage next to my new one, so i will snap some pics and show you.
go back and read the fist post to see my reasoning for building a 4-link and not a 3-link.
my one ton xj had pretty much the same mounts.....just way less beefy, and no mounting tabs with bolts, only welded(no rosettes). i beat the holy crap out of that jeep, put it on its lid twice, welded a new roof on and did it again!! ca mounts never budged.
i still have the one ton turd wonder in my garage next to my new one, so i will snap some pics and show you.
go back and read the fist post to see my reasoning for building a 4-link and not a 3-link.
why 3/4? just curious cause i use those on my steering. i run 7/8 on all my uppers i build.
also why 4 link? 3 works just fine with less bind
without any rosette welds(plug welds) in the frame mounts i see problems in your future. unless it's just driven on dirt rds.
other than that it's looking good.
also why 4 link? 3 works just fine with less bind
without any rosette welds(plug welds) in the frame mounts i see problems in your future. unless it's just driven on dirt rds.
other than that it's looking good.
Last edited by MallCrawlXJ; 02-01-2011 at 06:39 AM.
#26
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word man!! thanks a bunch. if you need help with your rear 4-link just let me know. i have been researching rear 4-link for way longer than i did this build, and you know i love to fab!!
i have to get this thing armored before i do indy....otherwise im am more than down! you know im prob just as crazy as you wheelin bro! "you cant make that line. no buggys have made it today."......"watch me!!"....lol
i have to get this thing armored before i do indy....otherwise im am more than down! you know im prob just as crazy as you wheelin bro! "you cant make that line. no buggys have made it today."......"watch me!!"....lol
#27
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the four corners guys are a tight nit group......you mess with one, you mess with all!! jk man relax. its a build thread, not a pissing match. everyone can voice thier opinions.....and i will keep on explaining my reasoning. thanks for the concern
i know .250 wall works good for links. i wasn't asking or talking to him like he was a CFtard, just like since i asked him you needed not to respond.
i missed where he said why he wouldn't run a 3 link. i seen why about radius (Y-links) but not a true 3 link.
and my concern for the frame mounts was because i've had a set rip off that were pretty much the same way
i like the build i think it looks good so far i just had a few question/concerns for HIM!!
BTW: i was never implying that since my arms are .281 wall everyones need to be.
i missed where he said why he wouldn't run a 3 link. i seen why about radius (Y-links) but not a true 3 link.
and my concern for the frame mounts was because i've had a set rip off that were pretty much the same way
i like the build i think it looks good so far i just had a few question/concerns for HIM!!
BTW: i was never implying that since my arms are .281 wall everyones need to be.
#28
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i have never had a prob with 3/4 heims. i used em with one tons and never broke one. if you use em on your steering, than what makes them less inferior to use in an upper application? they are way stonger than any of the upper joints ANY corperate company builds thier arms with. i asked a rep for rubicon why they didnt use hiems and he stated that the only reasons they didnt was because they are not servicable and a little noisier(most of thier customers pound pavement 95% of the time). and as for the rossette welds.....no need for em. if you look close at the pics you will see two mounting tabs right behind the upper. there is now three more on the outside. there will be a 3/16's plate welded to the top side of my floor under the carpet, that will go over the entire "frame" rail. most people and companys bolt thru the unibody with sleeves. i have seen a few rip the unibody where the bolts go thru. with my "frame" essentially squeezed from top to bottom rather than from side to side, i wont have this problem. your frame takes more while you are compressing the suspesion hence the reason i built it like this. my axle doesnt see much side to side movementc ause my track bar does what its supposed to.
my one ton xj had pretty much the same mounts.....just way less beefy, and no mounting tabs with bolts, only welded(no rosettes). i beat the holy crap out of that jeep, put it on its lid twice, welded a new roof on and did it again!! ca mounts never budged.
i still have the one ton turd wonder in my garage next to my new one, so i will snap some pics and show you.
go back and read the fist post to see my reasoning for building a 4-link and not a 3-link.
my one ton xj had pretty much the same mounts.....just way less beefy, and no mounting tabs with bolts, only welded(no rosettes). i beat the holy crap out of that jeep, put it on its lid twice, welded a new roof on and did it again!! ca mounts never budged.
i still have the one ton turd wonder in my garage next to my new one, so i will snap some pics and show you.
go back and read the fist post to see my reasoning for building a 4-link and not a 3-link.
and the idea of sandwiching your brackets sounds good to me, like anything with the unibody if it gets braced and supported it's good to go.
re read your first post. somehow missed the 3 link thing the first time
end of hi-jack carry on with the build
#29
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FWIW seth knows what he is doing.
i can always go to 7/8 if i ever have problems. i have a right angle drill.
i totally spaced saying that i am also stretching the front 2 inches.
i can always go to 7/8 if i ever have problems. i have a right angle drill.
i totally spaced saying that i am also stretching the front 2 inches.
Last edited by MallCrawlXJ; 02-01-2011 at 05:32 PM.
#30
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Originally Posted by jmaxj
i know they are a lot stronger than most joints. i was just wondering why you chose them over 7/8 is all.
and the idea of sandwiching your brackets sounds good to me, like anything with the unibody if it gets braced and supported it's good to go.
re read your first post. somehow missed the 3 link thing the first time
i have no problem with people voicing their opinions, but my problem is most people on this forum thing they are jeep building gods cause they read it in a magazine. and it just drives me nuts when i ask a question to the builder and someone else answers with a remark that sounds like i have no idea what i'm talking about. i've been in the game of wheelin and building for over 20 yrs and for people to treat me like your usual CFtard just frustrates me.
end of hi-jack carry on with the build
and the idea of sandwiching your brackets sounds good to me, like anything with the unibody if it gets braced and supported it's good to go.
re read your first post. somehow missed the 3 link thing the first time
i have no problem with people voicing their opinions, but my problem is most people on this forum thing they are jeep building gods cause they read it in a magazine. and it just drives me nuts when i ask a question to the builder and someone else answers with a remark that sounds like i have no idea what i'm talking about. i've been in the game of wheelin and building for over 20 yrs and for people to treat me like your usual CFtard just frustrates me.
end of hi-jack carry on with the build